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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A friend of mine spun his axleshaft on his AMC 20. What are his options now:
One piece axle kits - $300
Warn Full Floater - $600
Find an axle swap - (what all will fit as direct bolt on's and which one's just requre spring perch movement)
Are there cheaper options? Or does anyone have any spare axleshafts?
He has a '85 CJ7 and lives Central Coast CA.
Sorry about the long post,
Thanks for any help,
David A

 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
There have been several LONG discussions on the 1 piece versus full floater option on this board. IMO the Model 20 is not a good
candidate for full floater, for the reasons look back on this board and the old one. A quality 1 piece such as Moser is the ONLY way
to go. Easy to install. One note, if he does elect to go ff, make double sure the axle tubes aren't bent, otherwise they leak. I spoke
with Warn about this, they know it is a problem.

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I agree with Brad....I was one of those involved in the loooong discussions awhile back regarding Full Floater vs Solid Axles since I was about to make the mod. About the only advantage of the Full Floater is the ability to flat tow...but the weak link is the hubs....
I have Superior 1 piece axles...easy install and a lot cheaper than FF. The AMC20 is a very good rear end. You would have to go to a Ford 9" or Dana 60 to gain any real advantage over the AMC20...and that would be a lot of work.

John......southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Locker, Solid Axle's, Durabak
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys I will pass on the information. Does anyone know who carries the best priced one piece axle set.

Thanks again
David

 

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Official Curmudgeon
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4,707 Posts
There is nothing wrong with full floaters on an AMC 20. Some people will poo-poo them because they
don't want to spend the money. The biggest advantage to full floaters is that the axle doesn't have to
carry the weight. I've had a set of full floaters for about seven years, a friend of mine put them on his a
few months later. He is one of the hardest core rock crawlers that I know of. Worst thing happened
was he exploded a rear lock-out and pulled two studs out of the hub and had to have them redrilled
and tapped. I don't think he can go crawling without exploding at least one hub, I think he buys by the
case. Here he is out doing his thing with the full floaters.

http://kc4wda.freehosting.net/rides/rides_roni.htm

Both of our kits were Summers Bros. and have held up well. I don't know about the Warn kit, but the
Summers Bros. uses the same bearings and seals as the front stock hubs on my '80. Don't let
somebody who doesn't want to spend the money tell you that one piece are just as good and don't let
somebody who doesn't understand physics try to tell you that floaters put more strain on the axle tubes.
Look at the big heavy trucks, what do you see? Full Floaters. Yes they are more expensive and yes
after about four years you need to replace the inner axle seal (which is a pretty trivial chore) but you get
much better bearings and no load on the axles.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
David,
I got mine from Drive Train Direct...$289 if you mention the internet add...they have a web sight....can't remember the url.

Ron,
If I had the money I would go with full floaters...but when you consider that they are twice the cost (and I'm still paying off the x-wife) and the only real advantage is flat towing....the solids work for me.

John......southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Locker, Solid Axle's, Durabak
 

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/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif I cannot even begin to imagine how many times we have gone over this, but it seems to me that full floaters ARE better, but it does hang the center of weight farther out on the tube, and the AMC 20 has thin tubes. I would THINK that any full float conversion would go along with an axle truss of some kind, just out of sheer necessity./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For all you guys that have spent lots of money on your 20 Diffs (lockers, floaters, etc.) and end up
bending the tubes, I know a company that has figured out how to retube the 20 with thick wall tube.
E-mail if interested and I will give you their name and #.
Nickmil.

 

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7,958 Posts
I know no one is going to want to see this, so close your eyes. When I spun my axle, I got another free, but it was the same type. It seems everyone was going to the 1-piece so they couldn't get rid of the 2-piece. It got me back on the trail in a few days. I know it's not a long term solution, but it will do for now. Use some locktite (the right one, green I think, not the red) during assembly and it should last awhile.

I would like to note I eventually went to a flanged D44, so I won't have the problem again. It will allow your friend to save some money to get a good kit (be it full floater or 1-piece). Just my thoughts on the matter./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

JEEPN
'97 TJ Sport
'81 CJ-8 Scrambled!
'71 Commando SC-1
'51 CJ-3A
'47 CJ-2A
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I agree with JEEPN on this. Depends on his budget and whats easily available. When I spun my AMC20, I didn't want to shell out a bunch of money to get going again. Used AMC20s or '20 shafts aren't to difficult too find and pretty inexpensive. Check around with local club members. I picked up an axle WITH a full detroit for $250. I'm still running 2 piece shafts with the detroit (not by choice, but by budget) and I haven't spun another shaft. The trick to help preventing those 2 piece of sh*t shafts from spinning is to clean the shaft hub splines, inside of the hub and the shaft threads real good and then torque the livin sh*t out of the hub nut. I think the hub nut is supposed to be set at around 250 ft. lbs., but you can tighten it alot more than that to help prevent spinning. Just another viewpoint.

 

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DDawg16,

I bought mine after I got the X paid off. As a matter of fact I had been spending a lot of time at a
particular bar of the type where you need dollar bills to tip the dancing girls. Well, my son turned of age
and the bar was sealed by the IRS for income tax evasion in the same month. I bought full floaters and
rear disc brake conversion kits out of all the money that I suddenly had.

CJDave,

The wheels didn't move out, only the bearings did which are now on either side of wheel center. The load
is at the same place or very nearly the same. The bearings in the semi-floaters are several inches
inboard of the load causing the axle to have to carry the load from the bearing out to the bolt flange.


 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks again for all the info, does anyone by chance have or know someone w/ spare AMC 20 Axles.

Thanks again
David

 

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you pay shipping, I'll GIVE you mine( they are narrow track).. i can't seem to find my widetrack one.. i might have tossed them...
~~Elusive~~

 
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