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Spring clamp loosening - anyone with experience?

977 Views 12 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  **DONOTDELETE**
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Is there any value in loosening the clamps holding the spring-ends together? There seems to be some discussion whether this will help droop or not. But, what about ride comfort?

I'm thinking of making some custom clamps with a pin through them to hold the spings together on the highway. The pin can be removed for trail use. Has anyone done this?

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Re: Spring clamp loosening - anyone with experiance?

I just cut off the tops of mine so they don't restrict droop, and left the vertical parts to help keep the leaves in line with each other. I don't know how necessary the vertical parts of the clamps are, but I left 'em there for now. Ride comfort shouldn't be affected at all.

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'84 K20 driver
'79 K10 mud racer
'48 CJ-2A trail Jeep
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Re: Spring clamp loosening - anyone with experiance?

How much extra droop did you get?
Re: Spring clamp loosening - anyone with experiance?

When I was running a 4" Pro Comp lift on my 89 YJ, with with Mefford and Hood 1 1/2" extended shackles and the trac bars removed. I scored a 635 on a 30 deg. ramp at a run. Some of the guys there suggested I should try opening up the clamps,so I did. The improvement that day was not even detctable. The next day after about a 15 mile rocky run to loosen everything up,(Swamp Route in the Soqouia National Forest Area) I put the Jeep back on the ramp and scored a 695, which is a pretty good improvement for a free modification. I had to check the spring bolts a lot more often, since they had more tendency to loosen up.
Jeff
89 Wrangler
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Re: Spring clamp loosening - anyone with experiance?

Sorry, didn't measure, but it was noticeable seeing the leaves being able to fan out and separate. It's worth it and it's free! /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
'84 K20 driver
'79 K10 mud racer
'48 CJ-2A trail Jeep
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Re: Spring clamp loosening - anyone with experiance?

Just thought I would add to the confusion......there is some debate as to the value of having a lot of spring droop...the basic thought is this....Unless there is a certain amount of force on the wheel pushing it down against the ground, there is little to no benifit...i.e., the weight of the wheel alone is not enough to provide any additional traction. In other words, the wheel needs weight on it to provide traction.

Now, please understand that I'm not trying to dispute the advantages of spring travel...I want as much tire on the ground as possible...In fact, I have been considering revolver shackels or some variation of it.

More opinions?

John......southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Locker, Solid Axle's, Durabak
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Re: Spring clamp loosening - anyone with experiance?

Point taken DDawg. This is the type of discussion I was looking for./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif But at least some of the tire is on the ground making some contribution. Not to mention that the pressure from a drooped tire comes from the springs on the other side of the axle pushing down - acting as a fulcrum. Now, I may have this wrong (won't be the first or last), keeping the clamps together would fight against the force trying to push the wheel down.
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Re: Spring clamp loosening - anyone with experiance?

DDawg
I agree with you when it come to some of the extreme travle set ups. Thats why ramp scores dont mean squat. But the extra flex gained by allowing the leafs to fan out is generally an improvement. As for the revolver shackles,I ran them with my old 4" set up,(I borrowed a set from a freind for a couple of weeks), they have a bad characteristic in that they tend to transfer weight away from the hill durring a steep incline. Ill try to explain. They were great for going through deep ravines, as long as you were either going down hill or fairly flat they kept the tires on the ground and the Jeep fairly well ballanced. But on steep climbs going from a flat or off camber start, as the front started getting unweighted in the climb and the rear shackles were still comperessed averything was fine, but as the rear wheels started up the incline and even a small amount of power added, the shackles would tend to open up affectively throwing your weight out away from the hill,and if you started to slip and needed to really power up it would start to hop with the shackles opening and closing. Traction was bad and it felt very unstable. I removed them and they were passed around like pack of cigaretts in a jail house. No one kept them on for more than a few weeks. It was mostly rock crawling terrain south of Yosemite.
Jeff
89 Wrangler
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Re: Spring clamp loosening - anyone with experiance?

Thanks for the trail report. I have been thinking of revolvers for a future upgrade. The jury is still out until the $$ comes in.
Re: Spring clamp loosening - anyone with experiance?

Hey H8,
thanks for the unbiased trail report, (i like to hear good and bad) i've also heard other people talk about this same problem.
do you think that this is all caused by torque?
did anyone that tried the revolvers have some kind of "anti-wrap" or axle controlling links or traction bars?

3/4tonYJ
My Jeep Page
Re: Spring clamp loosening - anyone with experiance?

Thats kind of what I was thinking, that torque was causing the problem via axle wrap. And no one that used them was running any type of traction bars. However Ive seen your web site, and with kind of fabrication you are doing, there is a much better way to get your rear suspension to droop. The problem with the Revolvers or any other clam shell type shackle is that you still are limited by your rear shock travel. If you just go to longer rear shocks then you limit your compresion travel. I have been testing my new rear shocks and mounts for about a month and its working great. I removed the rear lower mounts from the axles and installed new mounts facing the front with a bolts(the same as the stock upper mounts) Directly above the axle about an inch from the underside of the body is room for a new 2"x2"x1/4" square tube cross member. 2 new bolt mounts facing forward are mounted on the cross mamber about 1" out from the center in both directions. This allows you to lay the shocks down on about a 45% angle from there lower mount inwards towards the upper mounts. You can then use 33" shocks and use the full 14" of travel combined with the arching swing of the shock body. It allows great travel,and moves the lower shock mounts up to the middle of the axle tubes. I tried it this weekend on an extremely tough rocky river bed and although I sustained a good bit of dammage, it was mostly due to operator error and the rear shock set up worked great.
Jeff
89 Wrangler
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There is also a very distinct drawback to that much unsupported droop. What I mean by unsupported is that when the axle is at full extension the main leaf is the ONLY leaf positioning the axle. This can be a big problem if you are hung up on rocks. I have literally bent my main leaf a few times due to this. Same goes for 3/4 elliptical or buggy leaf. Whether this is a big enough problem compared to the benefits, only you can really decide. Everything in moderation.



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Good point - didn't think of that./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
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