[877]

I was just taking apart the new tintop I picked up from Sean and only now realize how sweet it is

Man, compared to my old Zuk, this thing is brand new. Anyway, not wanting to rub it in anymore than I have already

I have a question about removing the metal lip under the stock plastic fender flares. Here's a pic of what I have to work with:

The arrows above are what appear to be spot welds. Is that all I have to drill out to remove these? I have NEVER used a spot-weld drill bit and was wondering if anyone had any tips/tricks to using one?

I'm also going to be removing the metal thing under the doors at the rocker. Here's a pic with more spot welds:

I just need some additonal info before taking them all off. I'm running Bushwackers and don't want the stock plastic around the rockers. And with the condition of this Zuk, the last thing I want to do is start tearing into it with a sawzall

Cheers!
Steve

 

[CrowHorse]

Its been a while since I've used one, but if I remember correctly, going slow made for a better weld removal.....

 

[sc044]

I just got all my flares off.. I just chizeled and pounded till I got them off....then again there was so many small rust holes in the body that the sazzalll will be comeing out and i will be trimming the wheel well up a ways.. ..

Later, Scott

 

[1339]

I've used a 4" mini grinder to carefuly knock off the top layer of weld, then just peeled the parts off, but with
that many the drill might be quicker.

 

[2074]

I used a center punch to mark the center of the weld and keep the drill bit from wandering. Then used a standard drill bit to get rid of the welds.


After that, I gently pushed a pry bar under there and popped what was left of the welds. Worked out pretty well, but I took it slow and careful.

Kevin

 

[905]

I used a 4" hand held grinder to remove the spot welds.I ginded till the metal trim would start to pull away from the spot weld then with a gentle pull would pop off from the body.

It was time consuming but to me it was better than filling 20 holes that I would have made into the metal.

 

[877]

The thing is, I don't want to really destroy the metal flare lip. A friend of mine has some rough looking fenders and I'll probably be giving him these to use on his rig. And the spot-weld drill bit, from what I read, doesn't go through the metal under the weld. It just breaks the contact between the two pieces, so no holes to fill in

Cheers,
Steve

 

[2479]

Hemo,
the spot drill is the way forward here, I use to rebuilt written off cars ten years ago and we used them back then. Go easy on the drill you only just want to break the contact between the surfaces(you can tell when breaking through the colour changes in the steel- goes a bluey colour) then if you want to reuse the part you can do a "pig tail" weld with a MIG to fix it back on. The "tit" on the drill might break through but the MIG will fill it in if your careful.

Shane

 

[905]

Hey that sounds good about the spot weld drill bit thingamajig

I did not think about trying to reuse the metal trim.

That is what I really like about this board,to have different opinions or ways to do something and it's all good.