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when making a miller locker, its best to use a big(250amp) mig welder. no mess,no fuss, less heat, and is more forgiving in a not-so-clean area. i know not everybody has access to such equipment, but just a tip.
iv'e also heard alot of people express there fears about getting the bearings to hot. the major concern here is cleanliness. dirt and debris will eat a bearing quicker then anything, the heat, i would'nt be to worried about.

toad
3-72' commando wagons
72' half-cab
01' f-250 4x4, super cab, longbed, V-10
artic cat 300 4x4
01' kawasaki KLX 300R
 

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The heat is what worried me, I guess a fozzy locker would make less heat. I am using a big old 240V Lincoln arc welder, I don't think my MIG will make a weld that is strong enough. So no bearing problems Lenny? Hmmmm.... shoot, might just leave that sucker in there then during welding. What welder? Your welds? /wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Kidding........

John
70 Jeepster with "Hurc package"
225 V-6/SM420/D18, D44's locked 4.88, 8" SOA 36's
48 flattie 225 V-6 HEI/T14/D20, D30/D44 31's.
98 Tacoma EC V6, 2" lift, 33's, and NO swaybar /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 

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iv'e never taken the carrier out, unless i was doing a gear change. the bottom line here is, if you drive more than you 4-wheel you'll hate it. if you 4-wheel more than pave ride, you'll wonder how you went anywhere before, and you will be looking to do the front!

toad
3-72' commando wagons
72' half-cab
01' f-250 4x4, super cab, longbed, V-10
artic cat 300 4x4
01' kawasaki KLX 300R
 
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I learned a trick.... I smear epoxy on before laying a bead down. It keeps em stuck on !

Lenny in Colorado Springs
67 Jeepster
231 oddfire,T18 w/6.32,PS,Warn 10000, Detroit,4.10s,D30,D44,SOA,35x14.50 TSL Swampers
 

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Alright, Hurc has the official lincoln fozzy locker as of this afternoon. It is sooooooo coooooool. /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Just having the axle on jackstands and seeing the wheels lock up is just a whole new experience that is just sweet! The tires turn about 1/8 of a rotation before locking in solid, and everything looks prettty strong. We cleaned up the diff real good, then filled in three teeth on the spider gears (top and bottom ones) with the 230 amp arc welder, I ran out of gas for my MIG, and the MIG was throwing more splatter than the ARC, so we used it. I got it all cleaned back up now, all is good, and it is back under the Jeep awaiting oil and a driveshaft to spin the sucker. I plan on firing up the York compressor and blowing it out real good too just in case. We had never seen pics of this before, so we guessed on where to weld and such, I hope it works! Thankfully we had the ARC welder, we were welding the front spring perch on the cast part of the diff housing with some nickel rod on full 230 amps, lots of heat!! My buddy said that is how we needed to do it so the cast could bond properly. Whatever. Now he wants to put a 4 link on the rear....... I am also putting disc brakes on the rear axle as well, I am trying to get that done this week, fitting the rotors eats up time and grinding wheels like crazy, my weld on caliper brackets should be here this week. Lots of new toys on the Jeep...

John
70 Jeepster with "Hurc package"
225 V-6/SM420/D18, D44's locked 4.88, 8" SOA 36's
48 flattie 225 V-6 HEI/T14/D20, D30/D44 31's.
98 Tacoma EC V6, 2" lift, 33's, and NO swaybar /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 
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