You can take a welded diff out too Joel....../wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif You don't wan't anything welded to the housing or your tires will not move...../wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Problem with weled diffs is that if the weld is not strong you might bust it, then there is a 90% chance your ring and pinion gears will be toast too. The guys I know love spools, cheap and strong. I am welding my rear diff this weekend, if I like it in the Jeepster, in goes a spool. You only can get a full spool for the D44, no mini spools availible that I have seen. Front is a no no. There is also another way of welding the diff that has been great for some people on the ORC SWB called a "fozzy locker" search it. They just fill in some of the spider gear teeth, not welding them together, that way you have 3" or so of movement in the rear axles before they lock up solid just like a Detriot, but this is free.
John
70 Jeepster with "Hurc package"
225 V-6/SM420/D18, D44's locked 4.88, 8" SOA 36's
48 flattie 225 V-6 HEI/T14/D20, D30/D44 31's.
98 Tacoma EC V6, 2" lift, 33's, and NO swaybar /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
John
70 Jeepster with "Hurc package"
225 V-6/SM420/D18, D44's locked 4.88, 8" SOA 36's
48 flattie 225 V-6 HEI/T14/D20, D30/D44 31's.
98 Tacoma EC V6, 2" lift, 33's, and NO swaybar /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif