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What are the in's and outs on spools? How do compare to a locker? Can you use them on the highway? What is the difference between a mini spool and a full spool?Thanks for the help,Dave


 
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Spools don't unlock. Equal power to both sides always. Don't even consider running them on a street rig. Drag strip, or dirt only. Bob

 

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It's about the same as welding the spider gears together, completely elimating the differential effect.

Had a big buick powered sandbuggy as a kid with welded spiders. The only way I could get it around the curved driveay at my dad's house was stand on it, lite em up, then slide into the garage. Then of course I'd spend the rest of the day scrubbing the black tire marks off the driveway. Did a U-turn in the street once that way, had to smoke 'em to position to get on the trailer. A cop saw me, almost lost my drivers license. 1965.

On any hard surface it's very hard to turn, but on dunes they work great. Probably mud too.



98% is Understanding it
"Don't Fix Unless Broke"
 

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I saw a few guys running spools on the front ends of rock crawlers at last year's Goodyear Extreme rock crawling events. Fine if you can unlock Tcase (into 2WD) or hubs to make the turns, but what a pain. Spools are very hard on everything from u-joint to axles. Even in most 4 wheeling, you may NOT want equal power to both left/right in either front or rear. Good way to end up off the trail with rocks in your top.

Joe
'67 Jeepster Convertible - Deluxe Edition
'67 M614 military trailer - camo edition
'67 BMW R50- It ain't a 4x4, but it is just as sweet
 

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So...What is the difference between a locker and a spool? Both are fully locked and don't give an inch of slippage, like a LS or open diff. does. The spool is easier to 'install'. My concern with the Detroit was tire size. Before installing it, I carefully measured tire height, circumference, etc. and found that I had a measurable difference between alll the donuts! The two that were nearly the same went on the back. After aprox 3000 miles, I measured again and they are equal! The bigger one lost 1/2" of circunference! Guess I 'sanded' it off!!! The tires chirp on turns , especially under acceleration, but the rig drives pretty normal on road. I won't have a rig without some kinda locker in the rear again...Didn't know what I was missing. Just be carefull turning around on surfaces that you want to keep in one piece...Like your yard!

 
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I like my spool. I commute 75 miles one way to work, over half of that is on dirt roads (winter, lots of mud and snow). The spool does not lock and release like some lockers so, for me, I find it more predictable. My rear tires wear faster. It chirps on the street at times. I would never even consider using it in the front end, impossible to steer.
A full spool replaces the stock carrier and spider gears, a mini-spool just replaces the spider gears. What I did prior to installing the full spool in my rig was to get another differential carrier (stock, so I would have a spare if I did not like the effects) and then welded up the spider gears. I drove it like that for about six months to see if I'd be able to deal with the idiosyncrasies. Then I popped for the spool. It is something you are going to have to figure out for yourself. Everyone told me that it would suck on pavement but few of those that said that had actually tried the spool either off-road or on. In fact, the spool handles different than an open diff or a locker but I wouldn't say it sucks either on-road or off. In a shorter, lighter vehicle, like our Jeepsters, the ill effects of a completely locked rear end are less noticable than on a heavier, full sized vehicle. Hope this helps. Stay safe and sane.
Rondo


 
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The difference betwen a spool and locker is that a spool is locked all the time. If the locker is installed correctly it should only lock under pressure and release when you let of the gas going around turns and such...... If your of road a lot spools are ok for the rear but not the front. For the front the only way to go is and ARB. I know they are expensive, anther option for the front would be a cable locker made from OX lockers. I use to have there website bookmarked, I believe its just oxlockers.com Anyone else know this site?

 

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The difference between welding the gears and putting a spool in is you can take the spool out, but you're stuck with the welded spider gears. The difference between a mini spool and a full spool is that the full spool replaces the diff carrier while a mini spool replaces the spider gears and is usu. cheaper.

Just so my post isn't completely redundant to what's been said up above, a spool is more predictable than an "automatic" locker. You know what it's going to do when you turn a corner. A friend of mine has one in the rear of his Toyota and it handles pretty good on the street. You just have to know what to expect in handling differences and drive accordingly. A spool doesn't let go around the corner, while a locker will and can make staying in your own lane very interesting.

Some of the Pirates were in on the Rubicon test of the Ox Locker and said that it performed very well.

Joel F.
Marquette, Michigan
Project No-Bucks
'68 Jeepster Commando
'79 Scout Traveler
 

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You can take a welded diff out too Joel....../wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif You don't wan't anything welded to the housing or your tires will not move...../wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Problem with weled diffs is that if the weld is not strong you might bust it, then there is a 90% chance your ring and pinion gears will be toast too. The guys I know love spools, cheap and strong. I am welding my rear diff this weekend, if I like it in the Jeepster, in goes a spool. You only can get a full spool for the D44, no mini spools availible that I have seen. Front is a no no. There is also another way of welding the diff that has been great for some people on the ORC SWB called a "fozzy locker" search it. They just fill in some of the spider gear teeth, not welding them together, that way you have 3" or so of movement in the rear axles before they lock up solid just like a Detriot, but this is free.

John
70 Jeepster with "Hurc package"
225 V-6/SM420/D18, D44's locked 4.88, 8" SOA 36's
48 flattie 225 V-6 HEI/T14/D20, D30/D44 31's.
98 Tacoma EC V6, 2" lift, 33's, and NO swaybar /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 

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spider gears are cheaper, but you better also count on a carrier while your at it. one , if you weld spider gears together, you can't get them out. two, to make a weld you can't break, you have to weld them to the carrier to. yes it can be done, if the person thats doing the welding knows what he is doing (me). i have done this proceedure on countless axles from a D30-D70/14bolt, never has the weld broke. as a matter of fact my jeep has just the side gears welded to the carrier (theres no idler gears in it) having the rear welded is not that bad, especially on a long wheelbase vehicle, such as the J/C, as long as you don't ever plan to put a heavy load behind it. and that goes for a locker to, becouse it will lock up around a corner under loaded conditions. where a locker is handy is in the front, where being able to turn is nice. something i've pondered also, witch i'm planning to do, is to put a set of auto hubs on a welded axle(front). it should act like a locker. i'll post something to let you all know how it goes.

toad
3-72' commando wagons
72' half-cab
01' f-250 4x4, super cab, longbed, V-10
artic cat 300 4x4
01' kawasaki KLX 300R
 

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Carrier:$50 + Spiders: $50 = $100
Spool:$200
Plus ya got to do all the gear setup on the spool.
Told ya so...../wwwthreads_images/icons/shocked.gif

John
70 Jeepster with "Hurc package"
225 V-6/SM420/D18, D44's locked 4.88, 8" SOA 36's
48 flattie 225 V-6 HEI/T14/D20, D30/D44 31's.
98 Tacoma EC V6, 2" lift, 33's, and NO swaybar /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 
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The "Fozzy Locker" is how mine is in the front of a D30. My rear D44 flanged is a Detroit TruTrac. I didn't want to throw a lot of money at a D30 and a Locker or spool hasn't came up available used. I filled 3 teeth on the spider gears on each side of the side gears. I also filled the 3 teeth that would mesh into them on the side gears. No problems to date. This all can be removed from the carrier if a Locker ever does show up in my travels. The little bit of slack lessens the binding when turning. 2wd has been unnoticeable with hubs unlocked of course. I usually run on the trail with the passenger side locked in 4L then get out and lock the driver's side at gnarly places. I have a twin stick D20 and I shift out of front for tight locked corners if I can't make the turn because of pushing. Hasn't came up very often though frankly. Has worked well to date. I'm interested in the Oxlocker concept myself, Sounds good on paper, I just haven't seen one hands on yet.

Lenny in Colorado Springs
67 Jeepster
231 oddfire,T18 w/6.32,PS,Warn 10000, Detroit,4.10s,D30,D44,SOA,35x14.50 TSL Swampers
 
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I like the sound of the oxlocker myself. I came across them trying to find a cable locker for the front of my bro-inlaws 71 Toyota FJ40. Needless to say we never found one for it and ended up doing the expensive ARB. Just glad the cash came out of his pocket. It was about $9 hundred for locker and compressor, maybe a little less.

 

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But...all the trouble of welding then getting the mess out. Besides, a mini spool (I know, not for a D44) doesn't require setup and all that and is fairly cheap (cheaper than the spider gears and carrier and getting it set up). /wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif

Joel F.
Marquette, Michigan
Project No-Bucks
'68 Jeepster Commando
'79 Scout Traveler
 
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Some of the guys around here use what they call a "lead locker".Use wheel weights melted down and poured around the spider gears.If you don`t like it, just melt it out.

Drayson
 

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The lead locker sounds pretty freaky, diffs get hot ya know...... /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Soft metal too. JB weld? /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif I am pulling my carrier to do my lincoln locker, I don't care to fry my pinion bearings. Might try the fozzy setup, we will see.

John
70 Jeepster with "Hurc package"
225 V-6/SM420/D18, D44's locked 4.88, 8" SOA 36's
48 flattie 225 V-6 HEI/T14/D20, D30/D44 31's.
98 Tacoma EC V6, 2" lift, 33's, and NO swaybar /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
 
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John, I thought about the bearing issue also. I clipped my ground electrode to the ring gear, The electricity would go via a direct path then. I wiped the diff out as best as I could, Used spray brake cleaner to clean the oil off and a few 6011 rods to fill the gaps. Let cool, then blow out the slag and junk and refill with fresh oil. I happen to use 90/140 cause I got a killer deal of 4ea. 5 gallon sealed cans for 10 bucks from a farmer last year !!

Hmmm.... If I welded up an ARB or Detroit would it be twice as good ?
Just teasing.

Lenny in Colorado Springs
67 Jeepster
231 oddfire,T18 w/6.32,PS,Warn 10000, Detroit,4.10s,D30,D44,SOA,35x14.50 TSL Swampers
 
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