Speaking of Nasty Bolts

/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Brit,....not only were our rear shackles shot, but the bolts were hopelessly rusted as well, and the rear frame horns were thin in places. What we did was make the bumber brackets BECOME THE SPRING HANGARS. Using 2 X 2 heavy wall square tube, we drilled and inserted a bushing to take the poly spring shackle bushing, then the 2 X 2 had big plates welded along the top edge above the spring shackle level which rose up on each side of the frame and bolted through in several places. The 2 X 2 then bolts to the bumper, which also bolts to all of the holes in the rear frame crossmember. So you see, Brit, we not only put the bumper weight right to the springs, but tied everything together on the rear of our frame as well./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless I've made 'em up myself.

First, how much is left sticking out of the frame of the old bolt? I broke one, but luckily I had enough "stickout" weld a nut onto it. The nut was just a slip fit over the bolt, MIG welded in place, heated thoughly, & she came right out.

If it's flush, you're probably gonna have to drill it out & retap.

You could access the captive nut by cutting the frame or the crossmember - but it's welded to the frame from the inside; since it has a broken bolt in it, you'd have to cut it out & weld a new nut in.

Hope this helps.

John

'80 CJ7
'84 CJ7
'76 Scout
NRA Life
Join the NRA!!

/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Hey, if it's flush...or even a little below, the Mig thing still works! Just WEAR LEATHER!!! /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.

Dave-

Yes, it will work with shorter shanks -- the welding just a little harder.

Um, yeah, sorry /wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif forgot to mention that upside down welding can be exciting the first time you try it & discover all the hot stuff falls - on YOU.

BTW, I once was welding in a pair of retired hikers (used for work boots, now) & rediscovered why you don't weld in boots w/nylon tops!! Should've seen me dance when that berry when through the nylon & made contact with Mr. Foot.

Sometimes we do stupid things -- even when we know better.

John

'80 CJ7
'84 CJ7
'76 Scout
NRA Life
Join the NRA!!

About 1/4" is sticking out under the spring hanger. I'm not a welder (yet) but I may be able to get a buddy to do it. I'm not sure if he has MIG or not but I sure will ask. Hey thanks a bunch for the ideas!!! I'm not sure about the strength of the rear crossmember so I was hoping just to cut openings into it where the hanger nuts are welded in and have my buddies weld in another nut like John suggested. Sorry if I am only contributing questions to this board. You all are just great for all kinds of fixes. /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif

Brit
85 CJ7

/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Before I went a different direction on our rear frame rails, I did think about cutting out a narrow longitudnal slot in the bottom of the box frame section, removing all the factory welded nuts and then slipping in a piece of like 3/8' flat bar that had two spots already drilled and tapped, then get it situated and weld it in several places through the slot, then add the stock spring hangar as before./wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif The moonguys talked me into going a different way because they didn't want to set up the bigger drill press that day./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif

CJDave
I never believe any statistics unless my moonguys /wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif made 'em up themselves.