timing belt issues
well, I sure hope I have this one right. Otherwise, I will lose another five dollars to one of the Big Kahunas.
Ironically, I am currently working on abstracting all of the last year's posts concerning timing belts. Believe me, there's BEAUCOUP posts on the subject and lots of diverse opinions.
One thing shine through, however, if you take the FOUR FRICKKING HOURS it took me to wade through them:
Back off your valves and let your cam run free when you do the timing belt tension deal. The reason for doing this is to let the tensioner ITSELF do the job and not get fumbled up in thinking it is "tight" when it is a false signal from the valve assembly up top. Actually, when you think about it in a "beer free" moment, it makes a huge amount of sense.
Me-thinks the Japanese who wrote the FSM in the first place had a real reason for telling you to do this.
Even though the FSM is a pretty weighty book, it's not what you would call "wordy." It's kinda like zen, sorta, if you know what I mean. Sometimes, I read the FSM to put myself to sleep. It works better than a sleeping pill, although I haven't had one of those in about 40 years.
Once we were traveling in the South and staying in motels. I put myself to sleep by reading the yellow pages, counting Baptist churches, actually. Better than...well, better not "go there." But the Zuki FSM is better than that!
However, that said, their advice on backing off your valves so you can get "true" tension on the belt from the tensioner and its spring is GOOD ADVICE.
Here's one other piece of advice--call up your local Zuki dealer and order a NEW spring for the tensioner pulley deal. Guess what? It will cost you about $3 including shipping and tax. If that ain't a great deal, I don't know what is. Why would you go to all the trouble to redo the whole belt and "whatever" deal without putting in a new spring, too?
For three bucks? Come on.
Anyway, take a deep breath and JUST DO IT!
j&S in Rimrock