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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just did some quick test on the wood pile in my backyard. There is at least 5" more travel all around but I didn't want to go too far at first. It drives pretty well actually. I took the doors off too! /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif There is a pic showing the Ford 8.8 in the back. Mmmmm, beef ... /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
http://webphotos.com/member/7612/246064.JPG
http://webphotos.com/member/7612/246065.JPG
http://webphotos.com/member/7612/246066.JPG
http://webphotos.com/member/7612/246067.JPG
http://webphotos.com/member/7612/246068.JPG


'91 YJ w/stuff, http://members.home.net/t.molnar
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well as I found out the steep angle on the draglink is a bummer. It rotates before the tires move whenever I make an input so there is a major dead spot at the center. It also creates a bad bump steer. Oh well, I new this is going to happen so now I'm considering optinos for a cross over steering setup. I get by with this for the short term, it's time to tie up the loose ends.
http://webphotos.com/member/7612/217522.JPG


'91 YJ w/stuff, http://members.home.net/t.molnar
 
G

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Are you sure it is the draglink that is causing the bumpsteer?My SOA has the same setup with no bumpsteer or dead spots.It actually works better than it did w/aal before the SOA.RH

87 YJ 350,nv4500 trans,SOA,35-12.50 BFG MT'S
 

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Looking good man! Might I ask what you did for shocks, front and rear? What brand and how'd you set them up? Also, how did you measure for the length?



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Are you sure you have room for larger than a 35" tire? It looks a little close. Are TJ flares in the works to get them to fit?

 
G

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looks good man

what springs are those?

also, what do you think your total lift was from this??

MIT in Cali sells a bent drag link for your SOA for like $150 and will cure all your problems

nice rig!

Boston Mangler
89 YJ With A Bunch Of Goodies
See It At:
http://www.yankeetoys.org/mangler/
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Boy, questions. OK, I'll try to answer all.

Rock-Hog: regarding the bump steer, I had a little before the SOA and that was fixed by removing the track-bar. I think the current problem stems from the combination of steep angle and rotation of the draglink. I can see it twist fore and aft before moving the tires. With the locker in the back it likes to lurch sideways on acceleration as it is and with this loose steering it gets hairy. The S-draglink would at least fix the twisting part eliminating the play caused by it. I think just for kicks I'll try the method suggested to make one out of the rear track-bar with pressed and welded in draglink ends.

Mangler: I'm using 2.5" lift springs (probably old rough-country) and a 4" dropped pitman arm. The onroad ride is fine actually in a straight line. I'm using a swaybar disco and it helps. The total lift is about 10".

Will: I have 6" extended flares with a deep lip and it's kind of decieving on the pictures but there is a ton of room under them. At any rate I'll try my buddy's 36 Swamper's on for size next week to check things out. I'm really fine with the 33s as it is they work well and they force you to drive smartly and pick a good line.

Jamgood96: the shocks are Doetsch Tech from RE, the ones they sell with their SOA kit. I just put the front ones on the stock mounts with the RE upper shock pin-to-eye adapter. For the rear I measured up and down travel relationship to rest position. So if up travel is 5" and down travel is 4" I extend the shock about 60% it's full extention and weld the bottom mounts on like that. If that makes the mount hang down too much you can lift it and use the MORE upper extention bracket to move the upper mount further. This shifts the whole shock position up clearing up things below the axle but retains full shock travel.


'91 YJ w/stuff, http://members.home.net/t.molnar
 

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I like the YJ on your lic. plate. I see now that you are going to have to update your sig. pic! Lookin good.

 

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hey, very nice looking...

for your bump-steer problem... you might consider a setup like this ... as long as you keep drag-link and tie-rod paralel you will eliminate it



bye
alfred

 

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hey, very nice looking...

for your bump-steer problem... you might consider a setup like this ... as long as you keep drag-link and tie-rod paralel you will eliminate it



bye
alfred

 

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hey, very nice looking...

for your bump-steer problem... you might consider a setup like this ... as long as you keep drag-link and tie-rod paralel you will eliminate it



bye
alfred

 

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hey, very nice looking...

for your bump-steer problem... you might consider a setup like this ... as long as you keep drag-link and tie-rod paralel you will eliminate it



bye
alfred

 

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hey, very nice looking...

for your bump-steer problem... you might consider a setup like this ... as long as you keep drag-link and tie-rod paralel you will eliminate it



bye
alfred

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Now that's what I call flex! /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif What's the setup?
Btw, I mounted the shocks today and took it for a spin. MUCH BETTER! /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif Duh, I guess you need shocks. Ride is nice and smooth at speed, the squirrelness is gone but the steering is still loose but it's another matter. Fortunately I kept the stock caster so it tracks nice and straight you just need to correct a lot when turning. There is some vibration though that I have to investigate. The front driveshaft is also rubbing against the exhaust pipe so maybe that's it. I wonder if the pipe can be rerouted? I also messed up by forgetting to mark the yokes before removing the front dshaft so that could be also. I'll go through some tests.
Also the rear has walked on me a bit after driving. Initially I set the rear pinion 2 degrees lower than the dshaft but it's now at the same degree as the shaft. I guess the springs must have shifted a bit. Now I have to check how much axle wrap I have and if moves up any more during load I have to shim it since everything is welded down now. /wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif
On the positive the 4wheel disc setup rocks! It's not even bled properly but I have much more stopping power. Looks like the e-brake will be fairly easy to fit too using the Ford e-brake cables. I just have to lengthen the threaded rod of the adjuster by 3-4 inches. Overall I like it. Once the bugs are worked out it should be fun. The 4.10 gears work well too. Now I can smoke'm 33s. /wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
Here's a pic of the front dshaft clearance:
http://webphotos.com/member/7612/247553.JPG
I wonder what can be done about it.
This is of the rear driveline angle:
http://webphotos.com/member/7612/247559.JPG
This is of the draglink angle after all is done:
http://webphotos.com/member/7612/247556.JPG


'91 YJ w/stuff, http://members.home.net/t.molnar
 
G

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hey alfred, welding parts onto a tie rod will work, but it's not very safe. because you weaken the tie rod when you weld on it.


dave

My CJ is your Wranglers Daddy
 

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sorry for the multiple post...

about the tie-rod... i guess it would be a good idea to "sleeve" it, before welding...

does this make sense?
alfred

 

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Hey, Alfred, you could delete the repeated posts. Click on "edit" and then delete post.

 

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Alfred, do you have any problems with your steering set-up that way? I posted a drawing of doing the same thing months ago, and the conclusion from those on the board that it is not the way to go.
http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads//showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=offroadjeepshort&Number=370035&page=&view=&sb=&vc=1#Post370035. Maybe with the 'Zuk the arm is different and works better, but I understand not to good on a Jeep.

pbm

ROLLED The 74 CJ5, so I am now building a 78 CJ7

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