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Some easy help

1K views 19 replies 1 participant last post by  **DONOTDELETE** 
#1 ·
Hi y'all,
I have been reading this and seeing alot of the banshee write ups...Well I just purchased a 1994 banshee that is ported polished and sleeved. The motor is tight and so is the tranny. I took it out Sunday and rode it all day. It was excellent.

My only question that I am able to think of is the following:
It has dynaport 2 into 1 exhaust and they took the top off the aircleaner. I need to come up with a way to run an air cleaner that is not AS succeptable to water and mud as leaving it open is. I have found a few airboxes, but they want like $$$$$$$ and I am trying to purchase new wheels and tires first. The current tires are shredders (which I personally think are a waste) and will be replacing with holeshot XCT's with .160 rims. I need advice on the airbox and the best way to do it cheap but not poorly.

Any advice is welcomed!!!
p.s. cleartoy, I have seen many of your posts and would like to get a little more indepth conversations of a few things.

 
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#2 ·
Are you running the KN filter on the Pro Design alloy mount, or just the stock plastic piece with 2 screws securing it to the box?

You could just put the stock lid back on(course youd have to buy one first)and vent the top with some of those little 1" foam filter inserts. That would be LESS susceptible to mud and water than no lid at all. I believe you will need to cut the underside of the lid to clear the KN filter and Pro Design mount.

Alba makes an Aluminum lid with pre drilled holes....claiming Personal Water Craft techology will not allow the water to enter. ITs like $86!

I dont reccommend putting the stock lid on without some of the vents, being your cylinders are ported, your motor wants to breathe.

On my Banshee, i run the Holeshot 20-11-9s on ITP 9x9 .190 with reinforced race rings on the rear. They slide well, and handle great@2PSI. Up front i have the MAXIS front 21x7x10s on ITP 10x5 .190 with rings as well. THey turn and handle great for me@2PSI. However, ground clearance is an issue,as i countinually strike the skidplates and inside of front rims with rocks, so my future plans are the ITP Holeshot 23-7-10 up front and the 22-11-9 in rear. Of course I will change my gearing to compensate. Another reason for adding taller front tires is because with the longer a arms, i can bottom out the frame to the earth. I would like to prevent that from happening anymore!

As far as .160 rims, dont hit rocks with those. I have folded up .190 rims that were equiped with race rings! They dent on minor contacts. One time, i hit a rock so hard, it bent all the way to the caliper, and it was locked up to say the least@!@


You can talk to me whenever ya like, i speak Banshee!

-cleartoy

 
#3 ·
Well I purchased this unit on Friday night. So I am still trying to figure out what all it has for accesories. I am from minneapolis, MN and I drove to the East side of Cleveland, Ohio picked it up at midnight, and then returned home in enough time to go riding Saturday night and Sunday. Call me crazy, but I wanted to ride!!! Anyway, the filter I belive is KN filter and it is held to the plastic tunnel with radiator clamps.

I am currently thinking of just getting a piece of plastic, cutting to fit and putting nice little air slots in it with my dremmel. I can not justify purchasing the airbox from the dealer, because the lid alone is around $50.00 and I will be marked as a nutcase if I spend $175.00 on a case for the air cleaner. I thought about going with the taller tires, but we have always run 20's on our machines and I think 22's would sit just a bit higher then I care to have it sit. I will look into the .190's, however I have not had alot of trouble with rims getting put into the graveyard, unless I beat the living crap out of them and start jumping into the rock pits full speed!!!

Can you get the re-inforcements for any rims or do they have to be special order rims? I have the stock wheels on the front with shredders, and they seem pretty decent in the mud and sand. The center rib keeps the steering pretty well. With extneding the A-arms, what does that help you with, other then stability? I do alot of trail riding, so I do not think that would be a wise choice for me. The durablue 2 axle is sure nice though. My project to get this up and running to MY requirements is going to be a painful yet slow process because of cash flow.

Another question is, where is the best place to get bearings for the front wheels? They are trashed and I need some new ones, however all the yamaha dealers in the local area are out and it takes over a week to get them. Thought maybe you could give me some pointers on high capacity bearings for the front as well...

I am going to have some fun playing with this machine, also if you know of any "basketcase" banshees or quadzillas, or tecate's let me know...I am looking for a long term project too!!
(can ya tell I am a single dad with time to play?)

Talk to you soon!!!!

AirBorn

 
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#4 ·
ITPS and Douglas rims are available with the rings. OR OMF sells the rings alone, and you can have somebody weld them on.

For the A Arms, besides stability, there is more wheel travel, plus, camber and caster are adjustable, so cornering is improved.

I never needed to replace my front bearings, so i would just go to the dealer. You might check R.P.M.

-cleartoy

 
#5 ·
Well, I decided to just order them from the dealer. I ordered the bearings, seals, rear brakes, and the chain rollers/tensioners...
then I ordered new wheels and tires from rockymountainatv...i ordered 10x8 .160's and holeshot 20x11x10 tires. I couldnt find 9x9 rims ANYWHERE that werent .125's....so we shall see how they ride...I am a little nervous but they should work ok...

I was wrong on the airfilter I am running...it is a prodesign airfilter and I am in the process of creating a air box out of stainless steel with its own cover to help on the water/mud ordeal...

If the wheels and tires do not work I will use them as extras and order the 9x9 .190s and through more of a mud tire on the 10x8's....anyway look forward to hearing more from y'all....

AirBorn

 
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#8 ·
Let me know how you like them. Are they Holeshots? Reason i ask, is cuz im thinking about getting Holeshots up front in a larger than stock size.

Enjoy your rims. TAke care not to hit the inside of the rims on rocks!@

-cleartoy

 
#9 ·
Well for the ITP .160's 10x8 and holeshot 22x11x10 tires mounted and ready to put on...cost me 190.00 shipped to my door. It would have been 184, but I opted to do it COD. I will get fronts in about a month and I am debating the size to go on the fronts. I currently have 22 on the front and I am considering running one size larger. However we will see how it all works in the end. Today I go and put the chain rollers, wheel bearings, seals and tires on. I also have to weld up a tiny crack in the pipe...and then I am also going to put a support bracket on the swing arm to give it a little stronger hold. I am very excited, we are going to the trails friday nite.

Oh one more thing, any ideas on how to guard the lights from breaking any better( i broke one this last weekend).
Look forward to hearing from you....


AirBorn!!

 
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#10 ·
yes those 20"/10"/8" tires are holeshots XC and man the look greet have not rode it yet as I am piecing my quad back together from a bad crash.
And those ITP wheels are 190" race wheels with the beed lock inner and outter ring for heavedudy abuse, those 160" wheels will bend easily if you hit big rocks or trees at low speeds, I go fast thro the woods and hit trees and rock alot and get hurt alot, I am just trying to keep up with the prrs in th GNCC races

woodsrace

 
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#12 ·
Hey airborn let me know how your machine runs, I got a dynoport 2 into 1 pipe also. what kind of carbs are you running ? I was running stock 28mm mikunies with stock airbox and lid with alot of holes drilled in it and k&n filter, well I sold the stock carbs, cable and thumb throttle for $500.00 and going with Trinity racing stage 4 C.V. system has a 1+2 intake and 35 mm PWK, I was told by dynoport and trinity racing that with the total setup I can come between 65 and 70 HP. I am hoping they are right

what do you think cleartoy? you seem like a wise banshee man, do you know anyone with the 2 into 1 total setup? I was told most all wodsracers and Grand National Cross Country racers say its the way to go for more low end and mid range tourqe !!!

woodsracer

99 cross country banshee
99 dodge quad cab 4x4
 
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#13 ·
I remember reading an article in the Sand Sports Mag a couple years ago. They installed a 420 Long rod kit(probably stage4) , ported, with 34PJS, head with turbo pattern, Trinity pipes, and the like and they estimated 65-70HP.

I think its possible with all those mods. Im assuming that is what you mean by stage 4, except you are running a single carb and 2:1 pipe. You might make more torque but less HP than that setup. Only a dyno will tell.

Let us all know how it goes.

-cleartoy

 
#14 ·
Well, To be honest I am looking to ditch the 2 into 1 pipe and look more for a pipe that will give me lower torque. I do alot of trail riding and the 2 into 1 is just too much top end not enough bottom power. It is bad when you are running trails in 2nd power band and 3rd power band when all your other boys are running 4th and 5th. I want more on the bottom...top speed is all fun but when it comes down to it...i would rather have the low-mid power...that is where you will keep it most of the time.
I also am running stock carbs...but it was never changed over to single carb, which to me is silly. I will be going back to dual pipes...prolly the FMF fattys of some sort. I have heard really good things with them. Right now I can keep up with a 2000 banshee with t-5's, jetted and running 20 inch holeshots on the rear. So to lose a little on top, might just save my squash (head for those less knowledgable in slang) :)

Anyway, we ran it and I was running about 87 mph and I weigh 285. So imagine what this thing will do with a string bean on it!!!!

Good luck in your decision, whatever that may be.

AirBorn!!

 
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#15 ·
Hey Airborn, That 2 into 1 pipe is going to give you the most low-end and mid-range for trail riding, I have asked alot of people befor I bought any kind of pipe, and the say 2 into 1 is the way to go for trail riding and hare scramble races, alot of racers use them, thats why I went with them. I am a 290 # man and I was experiencing the same problem, I was only able to run in 2nd and 3rd gear in the powerband and I have 20" holeshot on the rear of my banshee and my problem was the gearing, I am running a 13 tooth sprocket in the front and a 42 tooth in the rear and I can now be on the pipe in 3rd and 4th gear, if your running 87 mph now its probly your gearing giving you your complaint, because when I change my sprockets around to a 15 tooth in the front and a 40 tooth in the rear I can obtain speeds in excess of 95 MPH with 20 inch holeshots, and that is being paced by a new ford explorer on a strait and flat paved road.

Airborn, please dont take this the wrong way but, our problem is our wieght and we have to use gearing to compensate for it. 150# man and a 300# man taking turns riding the same machine is like night and day, the machine will preform totaly different as far as the power comming on sooner and stronger.

I think cleartoy will agree with me but, mabey not.

woodsracer
99 cross country banshee
99 dodge quad cab 4x4
 
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#16 ·
Yup, i do agree. First, the 2:1 pipes make the most low end torque. So you should keep your exhaust for your riding conditions. I installed Fatty Torque plus pipes, lost low end, but gained explosive mid-top. Thats ok cuz i ride wide open desert and sand dunes.

I would definitely gear down, to compensate not only for your weight, but also riding conditions. Im sure you dont need to go 95MPH for trail riding. This will increase torque available at a lower RPMs. This will allow you to hit powerband with ease.

If you need more than gears to put you out in front, i would look at a stroker motor to gain massive torque. I dont know what rules are in your class, but something to consider. If you can do the work yourself, Trinity has the 420 Long rod kit for about $1000.

-cleartoy

 
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#17 ·
woodsracer and AirbornBanshee; IF you guys are looking for low end stay w/ the 2-1 pipe. That is the only pipe that will give you the low end your looking for. I had the older FMF Torque pipes and decided to sell them for a ste of Toomey T5's. I never looked back. I was under the assumption that they would give me plenty of low/mid. I was wrong. As soon as I went to the T5's I noticed a MAJOR improvement in the whole RPM range especially low and top.
As Cleartoy stated..... changing your gearing will help. I would also recommend advancing your timing 4deg and shaving the head. More compression will help low end alot! but you dont have to go to the point that you need to run race gas.
As for having 65-70hp from bolt on mods...... That is the hype that Trinity sells. I am running a full modded banshee w/ a 370 long rod. I ran it on trinity's dyno when I was in cali and they almost died when they saw 68hp. NO trinity did not build my motor.
I personally dont see the gain in running a single carb either. (besides ease of jetting) Yes the bike will run... but I think you sacrafice power elsewhere. The banshee was designed as a screamer. Its also going to be hard to make the banshee something its not.
Even with all of my mods I can putt around all day in 1st/2nd and then hit some wide open trails/sand. If you do your research first and spend the money on mods second you will be happy. I know I am

walter

Banshee370(connecticut)
88 banshee
99 quadbuddy
95 Ram 4x4SLT

<a href="http://www.kandkatv.com">K&K atv<a/>

<a href="http://members.xoom.com/banshee370/">Banshee370's home of quads<a/>
 
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#18 ·
I have a 99 banshee with only a 13 tooth front sprocket and 22" sur-trak rear tires. I just bought the FMF Gnarley pipes, which replaced the Fatty "woods" pipes. They're supposed to be much better for low and mid range power. Im going to install a K&N and an alba air box lid with them. When I get them on, I'll report back with some feedback on the improvement. I weight 250 # and mostly trail ride, too.

Eric

 
#19 ·
Well with everything I have read on the 2 into 1 pipes they say that they are low-mid torq pipes...I would imagine this is true for a stock motor. This machine has been ported and polished...stage 3 I believe and the pipe just doesnt compliment the motor work.

If you sit down and look at the pipe and compare it to a FMF gnarley or a Toomey T5....you will see that the powerband is going to come on later then the others. 2 stroke power band is all in the pipe not the motor....the 2 into 1 is long and narrow which means higher RPM's to hit powerband....whereas the Toomey T5 or FMF Gnarley has a wider and shorter pipe...which means power band sooner...this will give a longer power band by doing this and the throttle will be more evenly displaced. Right now I rev it to high RPM's and the power band hits, and if you are not superglued to the seat you WILL come off the back....this is not a good thing for trails or hilly terrain...The Toomey T5 claims to have a more well rounded power band....that is what I want....
(sorry to those that didnt want the quick rundown on power band info...just felt i had to explain my reasoning)

Also, just a small note of personal experience on this....I have read up on the dynoport 2 into 1 and they claim low-mid torq with that pipe...and I have found that to be further from the truth, at least in my case...This machine has 20 inch rears...and I am running 14(I think) tooth front and I can not remember the rear....but I know the gearing is close to what I used to have on my other toys....

The biggest key is when you have motor work done....to have the pipes for the right scenario...I agree that gearing is important for us "bigger" guys...because that is just life....I can get on the 2000 Banshee which is stock except the Toomey T5s and the holeshot 20s in the rear and it is kick butt in low and mid....which tells me my pipe is not matched for my motor...I dunno...I am trying to research as much as possible...

I do like your input, because it makes me look at things that I may have overlooked....keep it coming guys!!! thanks

AirBorn!!

 
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#20 ·
YEAH!!! research I'm still doing it and still learning. I agree the banshee is made to be a screemer and run WIDE F*CKING OPEN , but here in Nashville TN there is hills valleys and more hills, that ass kicking power band I would love it and be addicted too it but, it DONT work in the woods and hills (for me) I need tourqe for my fat ass LOL. thus having to change the power curve. I wish I could get a pipe set of each Toomeys, Fatties, and many others. Damd, I might just go buy another pipe set anyway just to prove it to myself.

Just a note. my 99 banshee is bored 2.00 mm over, has a mid-range port job By Southgate Machine, Dynoport 2 into 1 pipe and silencer, carbon Tech reeds on stock reed cage, the head is milled big time and rechambered 19 cc needs about 100 octane fuel, the guy said mix half race gas and half pemium fuel run a 13 tooth front sprocket and 42 tooth rear sprocket for woods racing, and was running stock mikuni marbs with dyno jet kit and 320 main jets with stock air box and K&N filter and drilled extra holes in the lid for more air and the rest of the machine is stock with 20" holeshots and it ALL works for me. I can climb these hills in 2nd and 3rd gear, hardly ever use 5th gear much less 6th unless traveling down wide open roads, and can still out run my buddy through the woods on his 400 EX LMAO at him.

sorry guys just braggin.

I did sell my stock carb setup so I am going to purchase the Trinity's Stage 4 single 35 mm PWK carb and intake kit, i'll let ya'll know how it works out.

woodsracer
99 cross country banshee
99 dodge quad cab 4x4
 
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