Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Background--Well, the time for my Jeep to grow up again has arrived. My current 2in body lift and 2 in. springs and 1 in. shackles does not give me enough lift for 35s even with TJ rear flaires. I am fixing to need a brake job and i really want my d44s under my '87 wrangler.
Question-- Does anyone have experience with Grand Waggoneer or J10 front axles in a SOA setup on a YJ? I have both housings, the GW is approx 59 in wide with more of the pad cast into the housing. The J10 is 63 in. and looks easier to do but i want to know if anyone has experince with the SOA steering on these axles. The tierod and draglink will work unmodified spring under on a YJ. Any info greatly appreciated.
Brandon

 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Yes I just installed a 44 from an 82 gw in my 87. I had to cut my 44 though, because it measured 65 inches wheel flange to flange. I used a set of standard spring perches and on the drivers side I cut a bigger radius on both sides of the perch so it would fit on the casting and then welded a 1/4 inch plate to one side of the perch with the axle tube radius on that. I then set the perch on top of the casting so the 1/4 inch plate was on the tube and up against the casting and welded it in place after setting my pinion angle. As for the u-bolts on that side, I cut a piece of 5/8 flat steel to extend past the machined bottom of the housing and used square u-bolts to go around it and up to my springs. I also welded a pin on the 5/8 plate to fit in the existing hole for the spring bolt to hold it in the proper location. The pass side was just like doing the rear axle, only I had to put a piece of 1/2x2 1/2x6 inch bar stock welded to the perch to raise the pass side up level with the drivers side. It sounds as though you won't have to narrow your axle so that will save some time and money. I used a dana 60 that I cut down for the rear. Hope this gives you some insight on doing this swap, but keep in mind, 10 other people will have 10 other ways to do the same thing. If you have any ques about my swap e-mail me at [email protected] Steve

Mopar360yj
87yj+20,74CHR.030360,SOA,35BFGATs,46RH,241DHD,
D60-44-4.10
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just finished the swap you are talking about. Too much info to write in this short box. I used a narrow track wagoneer. after all is said and done the width is about 62. I also used the ford hubs and rotors with about a 78 chevy spindle. i kept the stock calipers. the swap is excellent. i put the scout II 44 in the rear and the results are great. please don't hesistate to email me with any questions you might have. there were alot of people that helped me through this and i would like to be able to return the favor. my regular email is [email protected] i am sure you have allot of questions.....let them come my way.
Buggy YJ
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well, i would like to see some pics of the steering setup. I was looking at my axle and it seems the tierod will be really close to the
front leaf springs, and the draglink will need an s-bend to clear at right steering lock. also, i was compairing my stock wrangler axle
with the wider J10 front, (i am using this housing and not the narrower Grand Wagoneer) and the perches are about 1 1/2 inches off. i
think i'm going to spend the extra cash and get the long side narrowed to fit my setup. i have a professonal welder friend who builds
axles and can do the narrowing for me. I am learning to weld, and if my life will be trusted to this axle, i'd rather find a better time
to learn to weld on cast material. Any pics would help me.
Thanks, Brandon

 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
by utilizing the narrow track I achieved the same width as the stock
wrangler. The wider J-10 will be nice. In WV we have to be able to cover
all the tire with fender flare. I got the 6" flares and used the narrow
axle. The steering does come close...and does need a bend....I just got
back from the Dixie run in tellico, and bent the fire out of my draglink.
It bent right where the existing bend is. I am going to investigate the
setup I see on other rides with the drag link connecting to the opposite
knuckle and the tie rod remaining in the same place. Will get some pictures
as soon as they are developed from this trip.


 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top