[Guest]

Looking for any specific tips in completing a SOA with Waggoneer NT D44 front and AMC 20 rear. What pads/perches best and setting up the correct pinion angle or driveline angle...

 

[Guest]

First, why the heck do you want to replace the Dana 44 rear with an AMC 20? Second, my recommendation is to get the perches custom made so that you can make them a little longer to help stop spring wrap. Make sure they are STOUT as they can bend ( I know from experience) and will allow the axle housing to rotate.

 

[1663]

remeber there are two kinds of amc 20's. the fs wagonner axels are comparable strength to a fullsize d44. Bigger tubes, thicker one piece axels, ect.

its the same swap im doing. the rear axle is already sprung over. the front is trickier. Vecause the axle is wider, if you try to move the perches to fit the commando frame, youll find that the perch will end up dead center of your diff cover. So what i have done is spring over and welded a custom perch on the diff side to match the same height as the stock passenger side perch.
Now remeber in 1980 the wagoneer switched sides for the front differential. So after 1980 your differential will be drivers side.

Also to note if your planning on using the tcase from the wagoneer to match the driverside diff, you can only go up till 1984 or so. After 1984 the tcase will not bolt up to the jeepster tranny.

In 1980 the wagonners also went to a 727 case. But all the amc motors will intercahnge up till 84 i believe.

Watch out for the full time borg warner tcases. The use a differnet output shaft that wont work with anything else.

good luck

 

[Guest]

I've seen some of those extended perches to reduce the axle wrap! Thanks for the heads up.

I'm basically picking up where the PO left off. I've got the Passenger side D44 and Single tube AMC 20. I'm not to concerned about the back because it looks close to a bolt in.

I'm having trouble figuring out going SOA with the pinion angle correct to prevent vibration and the caster angle to keep the steering in line. Am I going to have to turn the axle tubes at the pumpkin to keep the 4deg Caster???

December and Christmas have definintely gotten to my head!!

 

[294]

What are you wrenching on? Tire size/ springs being used all make a difference. The rear is not a bolt on, the old perches have to be cut off and new ones have to be installed. I prefer to use the conn-fer, rubicon express, or MORE spring perches, they are the well built, and MORE and RE ones are anti wrap long ones. Get the jeep level with the axle centered and under the rig, then lower the full wieght of the rear end on the suspension. You can figure out what your pinion angle needs to be from there. Tack weld the perches, take out the axle, double check the angles, and bzzzzzzz away.

The front needs to have the springs outboarded, you know that right? Major PITA in my opinion. Scrap the waggy axle and get a chevy one. Cut down the long side tube so the axle is waggy width, weld on a driver side perch, and bolt in the axle. With the chevy you don't have to outboard springs, or grind the crap out of the diff housing to get it SOA, becuase the perch is already cast into the housing.

You are looking for anywhere between 2 and 4 degrees of caster. I ran 6 degrees for a while, then went to 2 degrees, I like it better.

 

[1967]

For anti-wrap, I built a single traction bar with a shackle/heim mounted close to the center of the rear axle. This is by far the best improvement I have ever done on the commando. I didn`t lose any articulation with this set-up. Now instead of the rear hopping up hills, the tires are firmly planted on the ground.I was even able to remove a couple of leaves from the rear pack.

 

[uglyjeepoffroad]

I am still waiting on mine to arrive in the mail...

.. Drayson, did you lose my address?

 

[kingcarnut]

Drayson...how about a photo of that bar?

I would like to build one before the Commando is done. (at my given pace, possibly when I retire

 

[Guest]

I would like to see a picture of that bar too. Mine tries to change lanes when I get on the gas

 

[1967]

Uglyjeep- I brought it to DR thinking you may show

here is a link to the one I copied--------------- www.4x4review.com/products/suspension/traction-bar.asp

I have an xtra crossmember mounted behind the factory one with a skid plate bolted to the both of them.This is where the shackle is mounted.Insted of a johnny joint, I used a heim joint with rubber bushings on the bottom.

 

[GRQster]

And of COURSE you didn't mention that you tore it OFF on Schoolbus Hill either did you?

I think that was right before you CaverDaved your rear springs?
Hell, it was just a prototype anyway, right?
Good ole' Drayson, torturing his junk so we all can have better junk from his mistakes

 

[645]

i heard he used super glue to connect it to the axle

 

[SteveInColorado]

Yeah, well, thanks for the pics Dray. I need that in a bad way, and hadn't gotten around to searching for it yet. Does superglue really work?

Steve.

 

[Caver Dave]

Nope.... "construction adhesive"

 

[1967]

Yea- those were some boogerly welds

Had to pull the rear and bring it to work so someone who knew what he was doing could weld it properly. Brought the springs in and de-kinked them with a press.