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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi i am about to d a soa on my 78 cj7. but what i am really wondering is how is the articulation and flex of the rubicon express 2.5" lift and 4" lift and vise versa. i would prefer the 4" but what's the sacrifice? help would be appreciated
 

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A SOA and a 4" lift is going to be extremely high. Any particular reason you want it that high? I haven't used either lift but I hear they are one of the best. I don't think there will be much difference between the two as far as articulation is concerned.
 

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I put a 4" lift on mine. A couple months later I swapped in wider axles to keep all 4 tires on the ground when cornering.
 

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If you're going with a SOA lift then you will end up with about 4.5+ inches of lift anyway with the stock springs... The million dollar question is what size tires do you want. A stock SOA lift will fit 35s (I have one on my 74 CJ5) no problem. Are you planning on a tire bigger than 35s?

Are you absolutely certain this is the lift you want? There are lots of pros AND cons with a SOA lift?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i understand tahat a soa and 4" is high and i am saving my funds for those new bfgoodrich krawlers in 37 /17" . might it be to much suspension lift for the trails? i belive the shell was put on the frame and not to be extended by some body lift. IMO but any help is great. i just dont want to sacrifice flex.
 

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My axles are stock width. If you want to go with 37s then maybe 2-3 inch suspension will do. Have you thought about all of the steering geometry and other changes you will need? Or are you planning on keeping the vehicle stock other than suspension?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i have just started to think of changing the steering setup. but i might wait till i get some d44's. so for now just suspension. since when i bot the cj this guy had no idea of what he was doing all he did was put a body lift and some 38 swampers..but ill make it right.thanks for the help
 

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There is just a lot to consider beyond suspension when properly changing to a SOA lift... Just make sure you gather as much info as you can from reliable sources... (and if your going to drive this thing on the road over 35mph, you need to adjust the steering before you do)
 
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Having done both the 4 1/2" lift and SOA....my vote is on the SOA. MUCH beter ride and articulation...the 4 1/2" lift beat me to death. The SOA is a little bit more work, but cheaper (I use stock Wrangler springs front and rear).

Your big expense is going to be gears. If you want to run 37's, then you will need at least 456 gears...anything else, and don't event think about trying to climb a hill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks for all the input. so basically iwould be best off with soa. just asking, what would have to be done with a soa if i try to run yj leaf srings from rubicon express? since i was told that the ride is better due to the 2.5" width.. ddawg16 would you happen to have any pics of your rig?
 

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If you're doing the SOA on stock CJ axles, I believe the front axle spring pads are 2'. So your YJ springs are going to be wider. You can always change the pads when you go SOA. You're going to be welding on new one's anyhow.
 
G

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Albert,
I just got back into town so it will be a day or so before I can get some pics.

FYI...I used stock TJ Wrangler springs front and rear...both 2" wide. On the front, the wrangler spring is about 1" longer than the CJ spring. I used aftermarket rear spring hangers on the front. I drilled out the rivet and moved the hanger forward an inch and ran a grade 8 bolt through the hole where the rivet used to be. It sits perfect.

The only 'dificult' part is the spring perches. Buy new ones....don't make the mistake I made of using stock ones. You can buy longer ones that will help reduce the spring wrap. On the rear, mount everything up and adjust your axle for proper drive angle...and then weld the perches. If you don't have a CV drive shat...stop...don't even think of doing the SOA with out it. You will never be able to shim the axle correctly to get out all the vibration. By using the CV driveshaft you then just point the pumpkin right at the xfer case.

On the front, I did the same basic operation...but before welding the perches, I took (towed) it to the alignement shop to get it aligned properly.

You will need to weld on shock mounts. Don't do like some guys and use your original shock mounting plate on top....it looks like
and reduces your potential axle travel. Plan on needing new shocks (measure before you buy).

As for spring plates to the U-bolts....the rear spring plate from an Chrokee fits perfect. In most cases, you can just walk through the junk yard, look under any Cherokee that has had the rear axle pulled off and find the plates laying on the groung.

Since your in LA, one of the best sources for used jeep parts is AMC Auto Salvage in Wilmington (323) 775-2823...They are located on Lomita BL where it ends right after Wilmington AV.

Looks like we are both in the same area (I'm basically in N Torrance). Yell if you want to come by and look at it. Wife just had another baby so I try to stay at home as much as possible...I got some boys to teach about jeeps....
 
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2", 2 1/2", whate ever it takes.........

Your right....it is 2 1/2"....The stock CJ front spring is 2". Too many inches to keep up with.........

In either case, haveing the same size spring front and rear makes life a little easier. I'm very pleased with how it rides....

Which reminds me....you might want to consider NOT using poly bushings. As time permits, I'm replacing all the poly bushing on both my jeeps with stock rubber. The poly, especially on the Cherokee, transmits too much road vibration.
 

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I wouldn't waste my time and money buying a new springs for a SOA lift that were disigned for a SUA application. You probably won't be happy in the front. Get some nice custom springs that relocate the axle forward at least 1.5 to 2.0 inches. I had a local shop (Rocky Mt. Spring) make my front for $160 for the pair. The center bolt is off set drilled forward 1.75 inches (should have gone 2) 2.5 inch lift, and the rear eyes are reversed wrapped. They work awsome on the MORE shackel reversal for 2 inch YJ springs. I did have to drop $350 for a long slip front shaft.

Another better option would be the Waggies 44044? springs? Search the POR board. These are offset drilled forward and a bit longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
what do mean i wont be happy in the front? i understand the RE springs are for the SUA but how would that be a difference, arent all older jeeps SUA and moving to SOA? same concept right?
 

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RE makes a spring designed for SOA applications. It is listed here . I got the 6 spring pack for the front of my project, but the jeep is still on jack stands. RE says that if you are going to have any weight on them like a winch or v-8 use the 6 spring pack.

To use Wrangler YJ springs on a CJ, these spring hangers are the ticket.
 
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I bought a barely used set of stock Wrangler springs for $80. 0 Problems. Yes, I had to have my front driveshaft extende..$80, and new spring hangers, $25, and extended brake lines $60 (I think)...but she drives like a dream. All I have to do now is get rid of the poly bushings and go back to rubber.
 
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