Ok I got the rear part of the SOA nearly done. I have the 67 Mono leaf on my 67 and I wanted to use it to see what the articulation from a single flexy sprng would be.
I got 1/4" thick wall 2 1/2" square tubing and bandsawed it to 5 inches long. Then I cut this in half lengthwise for my 2 spring mounts. Cutting torched a semicircle for the Axle housing using the UBolts as a template. Set the new mounts on top parrellel to the old ones on bottom. Tacked in place with the angles on each end of the driveshaft equal. Stuck original driveshaft in works but about 2 in. of spline showing (Too short) Drove it around to check for vibration. Jumped on the insterstate to wind it up and then a few undesirable things happened.
A. While applying all that torque and speed to my freshly prepared expert professional tack welds while trying to merge on the ramp I felt a bump and then some awesome clanging. Loss of all forward momentum.
B. coast to side. Look under and driveshaft laying on the ground and Pinion pointing straight up at gas tank. The metal must not have been strong in that rearend (My welds could not ever break) I don't care what it looks like.
C. (idea) Stick jack under rear end and rotate it in place. now I have 2 pieces of driveshaft that are too long to slip back together.
D. Get tools, Drop driveshaft end slip it together and replace. Life is good.
E. Fire it up take off and feel bump and hear awesome clanging again. (Refer back to Step B.)
F. Drop driveshaft (again) Look at the water running across the pavement down my back as it has started raining and lock the hubs and move the magic lever to head home thinking I really ought to go get that soft top or put the hard one back on.
A 76 scout driveshaft happened to work perfectly to make up for the difference.
New Welds are done. Not that i'm admitting to anything wrong with the old ones.
I cut the shock hangers off the mounts and moved them to the bottom to keep the shock travel. As the original location is between the frame and the outboard springs, The shocks ride in between. When I wheeled with it sunday and got back to check out everything the sideways forces allowed the springs to get into the shocks destroying two RS5000s. This'll have to be changed.
Measuring from the bottom molding line to ground I now have 3 inches height at the rear before I do the front. The spring is setting level with no sag (yet) after a pretty intensive workout (Hill rock climbs) on Sunday.
Lenny in Colorado Springs
67 Jeepster 225 3 speed(building me a T18 now!!)
I got 1/4" thick wall 2 1/2" square tubing and bandsawed it to 5 inches long. Then I cut this in half lengthwise for my 2 spring mounts. Cutting torched a semicircle for the Axle housing using the UBolts as a template. Set the new mounts on top parrellel to the old ones on bottom. Tacked in place with the angles on each end of the driveshaft equal. Stuck original driveshaft in works but about 2 in. of spline showing (Too short) Drove it around to check for vibration. Jumped on the insterstate to wind it up and then a few undesirable things happened.
A. While applying all that torque and speed to my freshly prepared expert professional tack welds while trying to merge on the ramp I felt a bump and then some awesome clanging. Loss of all forward momentum.
B. coast to side. Look under and driveshaft laying on the ground and Pinion pointing straight up at gas tank. The metal must not have been strong in that rearend (My welds could not ever break) I don't care what it looks like.
C. (idea) Stick jack under rear end and rotate it in place. now I have 2 pieces of driveshaft that are too long to slip back together.
D. Get tools, Drop driveshaft end slip it together and replace. Life is good.
E. Fire it up take off and feel bump and hear awesome clanging again. (Refer back to Step B.)
F. Drop driveshaft (again) Look at the water running across the pavement down my back as it has started raining and lock the hubs and move the magic lever to head home thinking I really ought to go get that soft top or put the hard one back on.
A 76 scout driveshaft happened to work perfectly to make up for the difference.
New Welds are done. Not that i'm admitting to anything wrong with the old ones.
I cut the shock hangers off the mounts and moved them to the bottom to keep the shock travel. As the original location is between the frame and the outboard springs, The shocks ride in between. When I wheeled with it sunday and got back to check out everything the sideways forces allowed the springs to get into the shocks destroying two RS5000s. This'll have to be changed.
Measuring from the bottom molding line to ground I now have 3 inches height at the rear before I do the front. The spring is setting level with no sag (yet) after a pretty intensive workout (Hill rock climbs) on Sunday.
Lenny in Colorado Springs
67 Jeepster 225 3 speed(building me a T18 now!!)