Off Roading Forums banner

SOA on rear done

1.3K views 7 replies 2 participants last post by  **DONOTDELETE**  
G
#1 ·
Ok I got the rear part of the SOA nearly done. I have the 67 Mono leaf on my 67 and I wanted to use it to see what the articulation from a single flexy sprng would be.
I got 1/4" thick wall 2 1/2" square tubing and bandsawed it to 5 inches long. Then I cut this in half lengthwise for my 2 spring mounts. Cutting torched a semicircle for the Axle housing using the UBolts as a template. Set the new mounts on top parrellel to the old ones on bottom. Tacked in place with the angles on each end of the driveshaft equal. Stuck original driveshaft in works but about 2 in. of spline showing (Too short) Drove it around to check for vibration. Jumped on the insterstate to wind it up and then a few undesirable things happened.
A. While applying all that torque and speed to my freshly prepared expert professional tack welds while trying to merge on the ramp I felt a bump and then some awesome clanging. Loss of all forward momentum.
B. coast to side. Look under and driveshaft laying on the ground and Pinion pointing straight up at gas tank. The metal must not have been strong in that rearend (My welds could not ever break) I don't care what it looks like.
C. (idea) Stick jack under rear end and rotate it in place. now I have 2 pieces of driveshaft that are too long to slip back together.
D. Get tools, Drop driveshaft end slip it together and replace. Life is good.
E. Fire it up take off and feel bump and hear awesome clanging again. (Refer back to Step B.)
F. Drop driveshaft (again) Look at the water running across the pavement down my back as it has started raining and lock the hubs and move the magic lever to head home thinking I really ought to go get that soft top or put the hard one back on.
A 76 scout driveshaft happened to work perfectly to make up for the difference.
New Welds are done. Not that i'm admitting to anything wrong with the old ones.
I cut the shock hangers off the mounts and moved them to the bottom to keep the shock travel. As the original location is between the frame and the outboard springs, The shocks ride in between. When I wheeled with it sunday and got back to check out everything the sideways forces allowed the springs to get into the shocks destroying two RS5000s. This'll have to be changed.
Measuring from the bottom molding line to ground I now have 3 inches height at the rear before I do the front. The spring is setting level with no sag (yet) after a pretty intensive workout (Hill rock climbs) on Sunday.

Lenny in Colorado Springs
67 Jeepster 225 3 speed(building me a T18 now!!)
 
#2 ·
Len,
Three things to consider on soa.
1. the monoleaf will allow a lot of axlewrap that usually can be avoided with multiple spring packs (kinda) or track bars. I had no idea what the mags were talking about axlewrap until I went to Moab. Boing, Boing, Boing, break! Watch out! I will have a rear spring built with 10 or 11 thin springs to create a more progressive feel and help prevent the springs from twisting.
2. Your an intelligent mechanic, but don't forget about the pinion angle. I had to order a 10 degree shim to fix what I had paid 'experts' to modify.
3. Shock lengths. The possible reason for destroying your 5000's is with the soa, there is tons more articulation and even though you modified the mounts, the stock shock length will not work. I have also destroyed some 5000s (rear) and a pair of Deutchtech (front) learning that same lesson. I am going to modify a couple of old pairs of g. waggy front shock mounts to fix all 4 corners (I hope).
Good Luck,
Scott Warren
sawarren00@hotmail.com
'72, 258, T18, D300, SOA, 33's, San Juan Crawler.
Soon... a bored and stroked fuel injected 4.0l (4.8l) Yeah!
 
G
#3 ·
I just got done on my rear soa setup and i have new multi leaf rear springs from national spring. Dont know about wrap yet but before i put them on i added a leaf and rearched them to two inches. right now the rear is high compared to the front.
sterling

 
G
#4 ·
I'm looking at homebrewing a ladder bar like the one offered by Sam's OffRoad for the Axle wrap.
The pinion angle should be set so that the rear and front Ujoint have equal angles to eliminate vibration. Twisting the pinion up to point toward the transfer is only good if you use a CV joint in the front of the shaft.
The length was ok on the shocks. The articulation leverage allows them to get the barrels against the springs smashing them. I'm looking at this to redo it all again with the shocks mounted farther inboard and right under the Frame rails. Anyone found a good substitute extended brake line for the Rear axle rubber line yet ?

Lenny in Colorado Springs
67 Jeepster 225 3 speed(building me a T18 now!!)
 
G
#6 ·
Them overload springs have been buried in a hidden valley far way in the rock mountains where no one will ever see them again, The welder (machine,not ME) musta been messing up that day.

Lenny in Colorado Springs
67 Jeepster 225 3 speed(building me a T18 now!!)
 
G
#8 ·
Having stumbled across 4.27 gears for the D27 and D44s w/Powerlocks I was looking at installing these in the rear. Running on the assumption that the rear end with the nut on the axle was a D44. After crawling under to recheck everything I see the "30" stamped on the housing in the 67. I checked under the 69 and can't find anything though the 10 bolt cover has slightly wider spacing on the holes that lines up w/my donor D44 cover. I'm guessing that this is a D44 housing so far. So I'm gonna build this housing with the gears in prep for a full float kit later, Also add a couple of more springs under my monoleaf (not really for lift, I'm worried about breaking a single support spring.) Also shocks will get moved to inside or under frame rails. 32x11.50s clear in the rear but some sheetmetal trimming or a 2" bodylift is gonna be needed to serious wheel it.

Lenny in Colorado Springs
67 Jeepster 225 3 speed(building me a T18 now!!)