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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ive decided Ill go SOA, IF I can reasonably relocate the steering linkage above the springs...

I have a front dana 44 from a mid 70s grand wag, and a AMC 20 rear from a 1981 grand wag that is already spring over..

I just need to know whats involved in finding or buying the knuckles with the flat top and connection on the very top?

hwo much where? any factory applications?

thanks!

OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 

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You should be able to use the knuckles from a newer G.Wag the 87 I picked up yesterday has all the over knuckle steering. I got the whole axle, springs, brakes, and steering assy for $125, so just the knuckles couldnt be much.
Jeff
89 Wrangler

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
the tie rods connect in the same plane as the upper ball joint?



OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 
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i also have 82 wagoneer front and rear end awaiting installation. this is not a concern yet as i am still SUA, but, since the tierod and draglink are on top of the knuckle, wont they hit the leaf springs on and SOA rig? what have people done to combat this, do you have to put them back under the knuckle like everything els (YJ's)?

'95 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
33"s, snorkel, 1000+ RTI, Warn xd9000i
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the wag tie rod connects to the top of the knuckle, and Cjs connects underneath.

I want to buy or make a bracket to go on the flat part of the top of the wagoneer knuckle and locate the tie rods up there so that the ENTIRE steering linkage will be ABOVE the springs with spring over axle..

OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 

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No you keep everything on top and its supposed to clear the springs, there are quite a few YJs here in Reno, running set ups like this . Tri county Gear makes and markets a steering over knuckle set up for D44s and D30s and its supposed to be the hot ticket for SOA set ups. They want over $1000 for the over knuckle steering and it looks just like the G.Wag steering(TCGs has beefier high strength tie rod and drag link, but still $1000 for a couple of knuckles and some steering. I have my axle at the job site so I cant look at it now, but its supposed to work fine with an SOA, and its supposed to eliminate the drop down pitman arm. Ill work on it this weekend if I dont get out wheelin.
Jeff
89 Wrangler

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
maybe my mid 70s front wag 44 is different than yours, im pretty sure in a SOA config the springs will be dead nuts on the linkage, and if they do clear the linkage will be UNDER the springs...

my knuckles look like the ones on this site
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/steer/soasteering/

tell me if yours are differnt, ill just get some later model ones..
tht willbe easier than buying the brackets, or machining them..

OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 

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hey there ozark.. i have made some brackets to put the steering over the springs.. didnt look too hot.. since i am not a professional welder.. but i will say that it survived big bear, ca and the rubicon trail and it still drove straight down the road. i am going to make some more for my jeep..
ran into another jeeper.. and he took some solid aluminum to a machinist and had him make some risers.. looked sweet..

survival is instinct, but living takes guts
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
would aluminum be strong enough?

hmm, do you have any pics of teh ones you made?

Im not much of a machinest, but I can take a 12 pack to work and get those guys to stay over and mill a battleship probably..

I just wanted some input from someone who has made some, and hopefully someone who has bought some too!


gimme the pics man!


OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 
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ozark,

I did what you're asking but I also converted to 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern.
If I where to do it again I would keep the tie rod in the stock location and buy a high clearance
steering arm to mount on the drivers side knuckle. That way the draglink stays above the
spring and out of the way. I bought Parts Mike's arms for both sides and it cost me $85 for
each arm, $42 for studs and cone washers/shims.
I can send pics of the arms and knuckles if you want to see what I'm talking about.
[email protected]

Lee

/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Lee, you have completely confused me!

please direct me to teh pics, or send them..

Im trying to figure out what your talking about!
85*2 42 is too much for me, Ill have to come up with another plan..

but I want all of the input your willing to give!

thanks

OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 

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my solution stinks.. realy the only thing i was displeased with on the tj-7
i welded a chunk of steel to the top of my scout knuckle and then drilled a big hole in the bottom for the nut. then i bent (get this) a stock tj drag link with a press and ran it to the pitman arm. it worked ok until the suspension settled and now it binds

~~Elusive~~
it's sort of still a cj thingy....
 

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I went back to the job site to take a look at the D44,(it would sure be easier if I could keep it here in the kitchen). It does look like it will be a little close to the springs but will probably clear. I will have to design a bracket to raise the linkage a bit, and get it out of harms way and improve the steering geometry. The design I will be looking at for inspiration is at this site. Matt, take a look at this site and let me know what you think.
www.tricountygear.com
Then go to the products site then Steering.
They only cost about $1000, maybe we could buy a couple of them, you know spare parts and such.
It doesnt look like it will be that tough to build. Theres also a guy here in Reno, who from what Ive heard, is very proficient at machining custom steering components. It must be true Ive seen a bunch of these steering over set ups in town, unfortunately I never see them out on the trails(maybe thats not a good sign).
I ordered my 4.56 gears and an ARB for the D44 today, I also installed the in cab adjusters for the R9000s at the rear axle today.
Jeff
89 Wrangler
 
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YOu're right my post really didn't make sence so I'll try to explain it a little better.
Also I'm at work so I won't be able to send pics til tonight.

Ok you know how on the wagoneer steering linkage the tie rod runs from knuckle
to knuckle and the drag link runs off the tie rod with the "Y" set up.

Well I've seen some pics off jeeps in the mags that have the tie rod in the stock
location and have a raised steering arm on the passenger side to accomidate a drag
link. That way in a SOA the tie rod goes underneath the spring and the drag link is
above the spring and out of the way.
Here's an attempt at a picture: / = pitman arm, | = steering knuckles, the upper _ =
drag link and the lower _ = tie rod.
_____/
|________|

If i could do it again that's what I'd do, it would basically cost you 85 42=127,
because you would only need the arm for the passenger side not both.
If that sounds expensive I wouldn't go with SOS because steering is serious
stuff and lives could depend on your decisions
I ran unto a ton of problems with the spring over steering set up and having everthing
above the springs. Like the pitman arm I used was to long and ran right into the
tie rod because there wasn't enough room. Also I had to make several trips to the
machine shop to get everything the right length.

Anyway I how that helps and I could send you pics of the knuckles and arms later.

Lee

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey Panther,

Im following you, do you have pictures of your current set up? and what caused the problems your talking about? like the pitman hiting the tie rod..

Im just wondering how vunerable is the drag link left below the springs?

Im wondering if its even worth going SOA if I have anything left hanging down?

I really appreciate your input!

OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 
G

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>do you have pictures of your current set up?
I have some pics of the SOA that have a little bit of the steering set up.

>and what caused the problems your talking about?
Basically, when converting to front YJ springs the whole front axle will
move forward 1". I used the GM style wagoneer steering linkage and
pitman arm. The pitman arm is longer than CJ and has a 1" drop.
With all this the pitman arm can't go on the steering box because the
tie rod is in the way.

>Im just wondering how vunerable is the drag link left below the springs?
Have you have problems with this before? I haven't really and it's the
tie rod that goes below the springs.

>Im wondering if its even worth going SOA if I have anything left hanging down?
I'm not sure what you mean by this because a spring over has many more
advantages then the possibility of high steering.

Lee

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have several 2.5 inch wide springs to choose from for the fronts.

High steerings isnt the only reason I want SOA, in fact Ive only recently considered SOA, I dont really even want that much lift, I just want decent flex, GOOD road manners, and durability, id like to be able to beat the crap out of it on the trail and not have to worry about banging the exhaust and linkages and stuff.

my rear axle is already SO, and my front end is in for alot of custom work to bolt in so it woul dbe easy to go SO at this time, Im just wondering if Im going to decide later down the road if I shouldnt have gone SOA, or if I stay SUA if later I think man this thing realy doesnt flex the way I wanted.

I havent had problems with it before ( linkage getting beat up), but Ive read plenty of stuff in teh mags about it, and I would FEEL much stronger knowing those steering linkages ( drag link, tie rod link whatever the hell) is up and out of the way.

I appreciate your input on this

basically if I can make the steering work well ABOVE the springs for $200 or less then it isnt a problem...

I can machine the plates for next to nothing, I was just looking for some tried and true knowledge out there...

thanks

OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 
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