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Okay, getting a little closer to buying some upgrades for my engine. Here' what I am looking at doing to my 1975 Buick 231 odd-fire:

New timing chain cover: JC Whitney $99 (Because the oil pump resevoir is scuffed up on mine. I have an oil pump rebuild kit, now I just need the bottom flat section that bolts onto the timing chain cover. Where do I get this?

Offenhauser 6035 intake manifold: From what I hear this is probably the best bet for low RPM, although I am not planning any really crazy rock crawling.

Holley 4160 390cfm carb.

So, will this all work with the odd-fire 231? And what about smog implications. The PO registered the engine with the BAR so I have to smog it as they consider it a 1975 vehicle.

Thanks,

Paul





 
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I got a reground cam from Clay Smith based on an earlier discussion of good specs. It was real good for torque and idle. I also installed a true double roller timing gear set (not expensive) that had different keyways to advance or retard cam timing. Tim has said it again and again about setting a new oil pump up to .002" clearance specs for oil pressure. It's still in my 2nd engine but I'll move it over to this 77 231 oddfire when I get a reason to open it up. On this note to all ... If you go to build your 225, pistons are expensive. Boring it out to 50 thousandths over will allow you to purchase stock 350 Buick pistons which are a lot cheaper and plentiful. This will make you an oddfire 231 CID. As the valve train is non adjustable don't let some moron shave the heads. I ended up using adjustable pushrods at about 12-15 bucks each to correct for my machinist mistake. I have heard a lot of good about the 390 holley. I've been leaning towards using a Qjet. But secretly I am collecting up some stuff under the workbench that includes an O2 sensor, Chevy 4.3 TBI and a couple other odds and ends.
Nuff Rambling

Lenny in Colorado Springs
67 Jeepster
231 oddfire,T18 w/6.32,PS,Warn 10000, Detroit,4.10s,D30,D44,SOA,35x14.50 TSL Swampers
 
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In '78 or '79 Buick used a non-computer controlled Quadrajet of about 500cfm. Last trip to the local u-pull-it turned up no less than four of these at $20 each. Just a thought.
Rondo

 

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Smog-wise it depends on your state.

Here in California a later model engine means ALL devices and systems used on the later engine must be used (including evap, TAC, EGR, etc,) and it must be stock original equipment, no Offy's, manifolds, different carbs, distributors etc - stock with what came on the engine originally in the donor.

If it was the other way around, an older engine in a newer body, then everything has to be like what was on the body. So if you put an old flathead in a new Surb, then it would still need the CATs, computer, FI, etc.

98% is Understanding it
"Don't Fix Unless Broke"
 

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I would think that you would have the option of putting it back to stock original condition. Then it would seem that
you would be exempt. If I were you I would get in touch of the smog guys and see what the rules are as far as
this. Just say that your restoring the rig. Its worth a try. Exempt is nice. Also do you know anyone that lives
out in Descanso area? That town is exempt, or at least it was when I was living in Diego a couple of years ago.


71 Jeepster Commando Hardtop. 3" Alcans, add-a-leafs& shackles, Rancho 5000,
31x10.50x15s on 15x7s, 225,T-400
 

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Definately find out what they are inspecting for and what emissions specs will be expected before you spend anything on mods. The Q-jet would be the best for off-road, but you'll need an adapter that runs about $20 to mate it to the Offy intake. The Holley can be made to perform satisfactorily with spring-loaded needle and seats, vent whistle or splash screen and extending bowl vents inside the air cleaner. Call TA Performance at 480-922-6807 and get an oil pump booster plate kit, part # TA 1510, for the cover of the oil pump. Price is $20.

Tim
'66 Jeepster Commando w/Buick 252/4.1L V-6
'70 Wagoneer w/Buick 350 V-8
'76 Wagoneer w/AMC 401 V-8 (sold)
 

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It's interesting that different states, even different counties and cities have different rules regarding smog devices, and the method of testing.

Some only do a tailpipe "sniff," if it passes the hood never gets opened. So you could have anything under there, as long as it's clean enough, who cares.

California seems to have the toughest though, but other states are following suit. Depending on the area, most of the testing is done on a dyno. Measurements are taken of the exhaust at speeds of 15 and 25 MPH under a light "cruise type" load. That means depending upon weight, the dyno loads the wheels to simulate actual driving conditions, loading it between 25 and 50 HP, trying to approximate actual driving conditions.
Then the next part of the inspection begins, no matter whether it passed the emissions portion or not.
It's a visual and functional tests of the devices themselves. Theorey being that it may be running good now, but later on it may develop a misfire or something, the devices still clean up the mess till it gets repaired.

As a general rule of thumb, everything must remain as the original manufacturer of the vehicle built it and obtained "Type" approvals in that configuration. It also goes by the engine and body years, whichever is NEWER dictates the standards and devices required.
So putting a 4.3 in a '69 is inviting problems. Fortunatly if the registration calls the body is too old to be smogged they'll never know. But ---- there are roadside checks sometimes - they'll catch it. Just be aware of the possible hassles. Putting in a Chevy 4.3 with TBI would necessitate installing the CAT, EVAP, - everything, then getting it "approved" at a referee station - near impossible.

A few "Tips" on getting it passed:
We all know how how familiar mechanics and parts guys are with Jeepsters. Sometimes it's even a fight to get them to understand Jeepster, not Jeep. Take advantage of it.

Start by making everything look stock original. Ditch the chrome, paint the aluminum. Don't let it look like the engine's been swapped, especially for a newer one. Even a bone stock 225 will get a fight from the smog guy if he gets wind that it's a Buick engine - he'll think it's not original. Books and data bases do not cover older vehicles very well. Don't do anything that will make him wonder.
He's under obligation to pass it only if it qualifies, if he "cheats" or even "misses" something he could be in big trouble, like heavy fines, loss of license, even jail time. The laws are against him. In some cases it's almost as bad as bank robbery, so try not to put the poor guy in jeapordy. If he see's something questionable, he'll fail you out of fear.
Smog offenses by a smog mechanic are Napoleonic Rule, guilty until proven innocent. He doesn't even get a trial in real court, he's judged and sentanced by a kangaroo court of politicians, many of whom don't have the sligfhtest idea about how engines work.

Red flag - Do not leave any vacuum hoses plugged or disconnected. A hose with a bolt in the end is a huge red flag!
Remove all non-used brackets that he may wonder about (or a state spy.) He'll assume somethings been modified and start looking closely - even if nothing's been done he'll usually fail you.
Even little things like using a heater hose for an air pump hose is a no-no. It works, probably even better than the stock hose, but it's "Modified." Make it at least look stock.

Before taking it in, make sure it's running properly, if it's missing it won't pass, save your time.
Make sure your exhaust system isn't leaking.
Make sure you have a fresh tank of gas in it. Drain or use it till it's almost completely empty, then fill it all the way up. You want to dilute any old gas in the tank with fresh gas. Many of the additives they put in gas only last a few days, so even week old gas can make a difference. Premium vs Regular - probably makes no difference, but fresh does. But, don't use ARCO or cheap brands, they use too much alcohol, HC may flare up. Stick with the major's for this.
Bring it to him hot, put at least 50 miles of highway driving on it, not stop and go, then pull right into his place. Don't let it idle while you fill out the paperwork or wait, shut it off completely.

It doesn't hurt if you are there when he's busy, sometimes he'll have a tendancy to rush, often to your advantage.

You wouldn't ask a friend, or even a stranger to run across the street and rob a store for you, so don't try to bribe him. You both could end up sharing the same cell. Instead help him pass you, make it easy to see it's original, the paperwork is in order, and you don't want to delay him from his "busy time."

Most generally the rules are determined by where the vehicle is registered, usually your home. Be careful registering it in another state or county where its not as restrictive. Most states have laws about how long a vehicle is in their state before it must be registered there. I've been stopped several times and questioned, one of my trucks has Arizona plates, my drivers license is California's. I carry proof I own property at the listed address in AZ, but still they argue. Who's to say that even though he's seen my truck around for a long time, I haven't been back to AZ with it in the last 30 days? Story time. Nothing illegal about owning property in any state you wish and living there part time. - at least yet. But be prepared.

We all benefit from clean air, so keep it clean, but there'sd a point where reason becomes absolute stupidity. Unfortunatly laws written by politicians reflect their intelligence. (Who in their right mind would want to be one?)






98% is Understanding it
"Don't Fix Unless Broke"
 
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