Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
11,452 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All who have owned a CJ have contemplated fixing up the rust. A couple of years ago I did, and decided that it wasn't worth the effort.

Eventually I did a body swap. After getting the old tub off and stripped, I was surprised at the amount of serious structural damage. After all, the Jeep didn't look all that bad - there are certainly many on the street that look worse. But I realized that, had it been in a significant crash, it would have crumpled like foil.

This is the rear seatbelt anchorage on the driver's side, looking up from underneath. You can also see the body mount, which is actually one of the better ones. I had big eye-bolts screwed into the anchorages. When I tried to unscrew them, the nut twisted, so I gave a couple of hard yanks, and pulled them right out of the floor.


This is the passenger outboard seatbelt anchorage. I had cut the triangular part off to remove the seatbelt. It looked reasonably sound, but after cutting the horizontal part, the whole belt came out with a good yank. In a crash it would have ripped loose from the fenderwell and then torn completely off.


This is the roll bar mounting area on the driver-side fenderwell, looking up from underneath. You can see where the weenie backing plate used to be.

The metal between the big rust holes is fairly sound, so it might have taken some stress, but the backing plate was very thin, and there's no doubt that it wouldn't have taken much to rip the roll bar off completely.


This is the rearmost body mount on the passenger side. The damage is typical. Some were worse and some not as bad. In a serious crash, the body might have separated from the chassis entirely.


What's significant is that I had no idea how bad the damage was. It had the usual rust-through in the front fenders, but that's not structural. It had the holes at the bottom of the door pillars, but that's just cosmetic, or so I thought. And it had rust in other places, but between the frame rails and forward of the back axel looked almost as good as new. I didn't think it so bad that it couldn't be repaired. The main reason I didn't try was that I knew it would come back.

Now I realize that the vehicle was a death trap. When I removed the roll bar the back fenders sagged out and down. Now I can pull them together by hand and see the forward edge of the back floor wiggle up and down, detached from the vertical panel behind the seats. With my own two spindly arms I can twist the back of the tub several inches without the firewall moving. A crash could have left me sliding down the road on my little pink butt, being run over by the chassis and a huge cloud of rust chunks and body parts.

Please, if your Jeep has rust damage (That is, if it's a Jeep) look carefully at the tub. In the dark, have a buddy on the other side shine a flashlight on the seams. Beat around on the seams and anchorage points with a small mallet, and see if rust chunks fall out.

Many of the potential trouble spots can't be easily seen, but now you have no excuse for not checking them.

I'll get off my soapbox now. Who's next?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,289 Posts
Your right on the money Jim. When I redid mine a couple years ago, the area where the belts and cage connect looked the same as your pics. Kinda freaked me out when I RIPPED out the seatbelts from the floor by HAND.
So I bet alot of them are that way since my jeep wasn't that rusty to begin with.

But all is well now.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,976 Posts
Some times when the heat is around 115*
the air is dry and the dust is like powder blowing through the windows, because there has been no rain in 156 days. I can look at my Jeep and say "Sometimes it pays to live in the desert".
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,674 Posts
Thanks for the warning. If the belts fail in an accident, that would be tragic. Those holes in the floor do mean more than just dust and road noise.

The post just behind the doors where the seat belt retractor bolts (later CJ7's) to can get really rotten as well. I relocated mine to the vertical portion of the plate that the base of the roll bar mounts to. In case you wonder, the other ends are on tabs welded to the cage and the seats are now mounted to the 6 point cage as well on an H shaped structure attached to the first 4 points of the cage. Some day when I can afford it, I will swap on a YJ body or a fiberglass tub. Until then, I'm trying my best to make it safe for myself and passengers.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
I agree with you all and that is why i am installing a full 6 point cage that the seats are mounted to and the seat belts are mounted to and all of it will be attached to the cage. so at that point the body is only cosmetic. In my opinon it is money better spent to get a full cage with seats tied in than to get a new body that you are just going to destroy banging against the trees.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top