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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Warn winch that I got off of a friend, but he lost the controller.... Is there any way to run the winch forward and reverse without the risk of shorting out any solenoids or the motor? The winch has the newer 3-prong connection...

Steve

 

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I got tired of my Ramsey control box plug not working right, so I hard-wired a switch into the cab of my truck. If you pull the cover off the solenoid pack, and short wires across the prongs for the plug, you will be able to quickly see which wires control what. Once you know this, just either hard wire a switch to this or find a generic plug disconnect to hook it up. Really easy to do.

One of the benefits of having the controller in the cab is that you don't have to dig through the tool box for when you need it - and this really helps you get out of those "hairy" situations that much faster.

David
Davids 4x4 Page
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a Warn XD800i winch,with the three pin connector and don't have a clue to how to operate it without the controller.
I ran over my original cord and just spliced it back together matching color for color of the wires (I did order and buy and new one).
Kept the original as a backup. Why don't you just get a new controller, heck you got the winch for free?

My third Wrangler: 99 Sahara (desert sand)
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Warn wants $60 bucks for the remote :( I think I really like the idea of hard wired switches in the cab!! I think I'm going to go that way, and I bet it won't cost $60 :)

Thanks

 

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yep, hard wiring is the way to go.

I actually had a spare controller I used in the cab. I have approx. 6 foot of cable from the center of the cab that lets me hand the controller over to the passenger, or stand just outside the window and control the winch.

Another friend used a basic toggle switch mounted in an overhead console to the full cage of his YJ.

Both work well, and both are cheaper than $60/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif

David
Davids 4x4 Page
 

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On my M8000 the 3 prong connector was rusted out and broken. I still had the remote but replaced the connector with a three prong stainless XLR microphone connector. Fit perfectly. So you could probably just get some XLR connectors, some wire, a toggle switch, and fabricate some sort of handle to put it all on and have a remote for about $5.
Somewhere I have a wiring schematic of the basic early warn winch design (M5000,M8000). I'll look for it and post it when I find it.

'79 CJ-7
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The only thing that I'm worried about is putting a jumper across the wrong two contacts and frying the motor or solenoid pack. The contacts are in a triangle shape... I would think that the top contact is the common one and the two bottom contacts determine forward and reverse... Am I wrong??? I really want to see if this thing works.

Steve
'94 YJ Sahara

 

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a lot of people who run mud install the solinoid pack under the hood with the switch hard wired on the dash, that way the throttle can be operated while using the winch. Only thing needed is a single pole double throw switch with a momentarity throw. The solinoid cannot be shorted out they are doing there job with a warn control or hard wired they know no differents. I got mine hard wired because I do not like getting my feet wet. passanger pulls cable

brownbagg </font color=red>
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I took the cover off of the winch and started shorting out the contacts, the white wire seemed to be the ground so I connected one clip to the ground and another to the green (nothing happened, but the test light came on), then shorted ground to black (nothing happened, test light came on again). I guess that means the motor is bad /wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif or maybe I'm just doing something wrong?
 

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I knew I had this laying around somehwere....See attachment for bad but usable wiring diagram.

WARN WINCH 4500 OPERATION

When the hand held switch is moved to the "in" position, the following occurs. On the source side, current travels from the battery, through the relay tie strap and to the white wire from the switch.

When the switch is closed, it travels through the switch, through the green 14 gauge wire to the "S" terminal of relays "B" and "C". The coils are then energized as the circuit is completed by the relay's grounded base.

On the load side, the larger current travels from the battery to the relay strap. With the "B" and "C" relays energized, current now flows through the large contacts of relay "B" and flows to terminal "F1" of the motor. At the same time, relay "C" is energized and allows current to flow from the motor's terminal "F2", through relay "C"'s large contacts and back to the "A" terminal of the motor.

At this point the motor starts to turn and the current flows through the armature and back to ground.

To operate the motor in the opposite direction, the same principal is used, using relays "A" and "C".


TEST BENCH PROCEDURES

To operate this unit only on the test bench, simply ground the case. Jump terminal "A" and "F1 " together and apply 12 volts to "F2". To reverse, jump "A" and "F2" together and apply l2 volts to "F1".




'79 CJ-7
 

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