I am going to mount a roof rack on my '95 Bronco. I consist of two rails that run the length of the fiberglass top on either side. They will bolt through the top and be nutted on the inside. My question is how far from the side of the cap should I bolt them? There is a seam that runs along the edge, and i was thinking either just inside or outside of this seam. Was wondering if anyone new what was under these areas. Outside of the seam would seem to be stronger but inside works a little better for the rack. Any ideas?
Guest
G
G
I put some Thule gutter mounts just to the outside of the seam and has worked well. It definitely is where the strength is.
95coastalbronco
95coastalbronco
The seam is where the roof deck is glued to the side frames. The sides are hollow tubes, so you'd have to go all the way thru both walls to get a nut inside. I used a rack from a mid- to late-'90's Explorer (I didn't notice exactly what year) and it looks & works great. You can see it here. It's one of the later (lower) photos. Click to enlarge.
Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
![Image]()
Build it; Don't buy it...
Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
G
Steve83, I notice that your rack is well to the inside of the seam. It seems like that area doesn't have much strength on my Bronco. How did you attach your rack?
If I drill an inch to the inside of the seam will I still hit the hollow tubes or will I just go through fiberglass? Also, do you think there is enough room between the walls of the hollow tube to use an expantion bolt?
Thanks for the help.
If I drill an inch to the inside of the seam will I still hit the hollow tubes or will I just go through fiberglass? Also, do you think there is enough room between the walls of the hollow tube to use an expantion bolt?
Thanks for the help.
Re: Roof Rack & Installation
Yeah, that's the width of the rack - I couldn't widen it. The primary reason I added it was because the roof was so weak - driving at high speed in a gusty crosswind, the fiberglass would whip so hard I thought it was gonna shatter the roof. So to reinforce it, I looked for a roof rack that had several rails in the middle & would be easy to install, but NOT catch low-hanging limbs. I used 1/4 - 20 x 3/4" stainless Allen-head cap screws where the original rivets were & put blind nuts in the holes I drilled in the ~3/16" fiberglass roof. I didn't use any sealer and it has never leaked (in about 1 1/2 years). The roof doesn't whip any more, and I've carried my 5'x4'x2' entertainment center (3/4" plywood - disassembled), 2 20' extension ladders, and some pipe (at different times/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif) with no problems. (I don't use it often, but like I said, I didn't really install it for cargo.)
From your question, I'm assuming you have a rear headliner. The only hollow parts of the campershell are the areas above the windows and the entire rear edge (around the back glass) which contains a steel roll bar. I think I'd use "Nutserts" rather than expansion bolts - they intrude far less. You can get them at some auto parts stores, or from Eastwood. If you actually want to put more than 150 lb up there (few racks - original or aftermarket - are rated higher), you should build your own rack that attaches VERY close to the front edge, and on top of the rear roll bar area. Then put some strong crossbars to keep the weight off the roof. When you load it, you will increase your chance of rolling over (see my sig/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif). If you don't have 2 anti-sway bars AND quad front shocks, stick to the "wimpy" ~100-150 lb variety.
Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
![Image]()
Build it; Don't buy it...
Yeah, that's the width of the rack - I couldn't widen it. The primary reason I added it was because the roof was so weak - driving at high speed in a gusty crosswind, the fiberglass would whip so hard I thought it was gonna shatter the roof. So to reinforce it, I looked for a roof rack that had several rails in the middle & would be easy to install, but NOT catch low-hanging limbs. I used 1/4 - 20 x 3/4" stainless Allen-head cap screws where the original rivets were & put blind nuts in the holes I drilled in the ~3/16" fiberglass roof. I didn't use any sealer and it has never leaked (in about 1 1/2 years). The roof doesn't whip any more, and I've carried my 5'x4'x2' entertainment center (3/4" plywood - disassembled), 2 20' extension ladders, and some pipe (at different times/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif) with no problems. (I don't use it often, but like I said, I didn't really install it for cargo.)
From your question, I'm assuming you have a rear headliner. The only hollow parts of the campershell are the areas above the windows and the entire rear edge (around the back glass) which contains a steel roll bar. I think I'd use "Nutserts" rather than expansion bolts - they intrude far less. You can get them at some auto parts stores, or from Eastwood. If you actually want to put more than 150 lb up there (few racks - original or aftermarket - are rated higher), you should build your own rack that attaches VERY close to the front edge, and on top of the rear roll bar area. Then put some strong crossbars to keep the weight off the roof. When you load it, you will increase your chance of rolling over (see my sig/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif). If you don't have 2 anti-sway bars AND quad front shocks, stick to the "wimpy" ~100-150 lb variety.
Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
G
Thanks for the info. I am mounting a Yakima track system rack on my Bronco. I think I will through bolt the tracks on the outside of the seam. That should give me a little more strength than on the inside of the seam since it is closer to the edges. I have decided to through bolt the rack and figure out some way to dress up the nuts on the inside. I will be using my rack for oversized items that won't fit in the Bronco, such as 2x4s and the like. I also plan to carry a canoe at some point. I am definitely concerned about the roll over factor, will be sure to keep it light.
I was told by someone that I should worry about the pull out strength of the rack on the fiberglass. They said that the load can catch an uplift as you drive and pull out of the roof. Any thoughts on that?
By the way pretty cool restoration on your Bronco. How did you do the body work? My '95 is already showing rust on the tailgate and I am sure I will be faced with this project sooner than I would like.
I was told by someone that I should worry about the pull out strength of the rack on the fiberglass. They said that the load can catch an uplift as you drive and pull out of the roof. Any thoughts on that?
By the way pretty cool restoration on your Bronco. How did you do the body work? My '95 is already showing rust on the tailgate and I am sure I will be faced with this project sooner than I would like.
Re: storation?
I wouldn't exactly call it "restored".../wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif It's almost all OEM parts, but few are '83 vintage. My rust & dent removal technique is blissfully simple: just find a junker in better shape than yours & swap that nasty sheet metal out!/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif What few dents the '82 body I bought had, were covered with Bondo & ground down with a 4 1/2" grinder. Then it went straight to the paint shop. The reason it looks smooth in the pics is the PERFECTLY even coat of dirt/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif and some crafty digital photo editing!/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
If you back up the nuts inside with some washers, you shouldn't be able to rip them out - especially if you cut some fuel line shims that match the curve of the camper to keep the metal from wearing against the f/g. I might even do that top&bottom to reduce noise, wear, & leaks. Just make the top ones as short as possible and keep them tight.
You can stop your t/g rust by pulling the access panel, hosing out ALL the dirt/mud/rust, letting it dry, and then backfilling with a few cans of rubberized undercoating, like Westley's. Then make sure the drains are still open & change the weatherbelts that wipe the glass: ~$30 ea. from Ford. If there's no dirt inside to hold water against the metal, it won't rust fast enough to notice.
Also, hose off the underside of the truck after EVERY off-road trip before it hardens - that way, you won't forget. I blast mine regularly in gravel-enriched clay, but I clean it off before I go to sleep & I have NO rust.
Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
![Image]()
Build it; Don't buy it...
I wouldn't exactly call it "restored".../wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif It's almost all OEM parts, but few are '83 vintage. My rust & dent removal technique is blissfully simple: just find a junker in better shape than yours & swap that nasty sheet metal out!/wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif What few dents the '82 body I bought had, were covered with Bondo & ground down with a 4 1/2" grinder. Then it went straight to the paint shop. The reason it looks smooth in the pics is the PERFECTLY even coat of dirt/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif and some crafty digital photo editing!/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif
If you back up the nuts inside with some washers, you shouldn't be able to rip them out - especially if you cut some fuel line shims that match the curve of the camper to keep the metal from wearing against the f/g. I might even do that top&bottom to reduce noise, wear, & leaks. Just make the top ones as short as possible and keep them tight.
You can stop your t/g rust by pulling the access panel, hosing out ALL the dirt/mud/rust, letting it dry, and then backfilling with a few cans of rubberized undercoating, like Westley's. Then make sure the drains are still open & change the weatherbelts that wipe the glass: ~$30 ea. from Ford. If there's no dirt inside to hold water against the metal, it won't rust fast enough to notice.
Also, hose off the underside of the truck after EVERY off-road trip before it hardens - that way, you won't forget. I blast mine regularly in gravel-enriched clay, but I clean it off before I go to sleep & I have NO rust.
Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
G
Steve83, how did you mount the rack. Did you bolt it through (both layers) or did you use rivets? Looks good, may want to do it myself from a donor Explorer.
G
If people are looking for stronger roof racks, you can get the steel roll cage like one that sandwiches itself with a plate between the the fiberglass cap and the steel body. That way there is no holes in the fiberglass top. Its also rated for 500 lbs.
I had one on for a few years but didnt really like the looks of it and didnt use it all that much so I took it off.
I had one on for a few years but didnt really like the looks of it and didnt use it all that much so I took it off.
G
Except for the one I have mentioned, Nobody makes one specifically for the bronco that attches to the roof because no one will recommend drilling holes in your cap. If you want to drill holes then there lots of racks that can be adapted to fit with gutter kits or whatever.
Re: Roof Rack Supplier
Ford made a great one! /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif But they installed it on 4-door Explorers, and the tracks are about 1' too long./wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif Every junkyard I went to offered to let me have my pick of roof rack from any vehicle for $30-35 (with me pulling it), but I had to look for a while before I ran across a ~'92 Explorer (I don't really remember what year it was - maybe '95?/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif). The Isuzu Tooper II had a good-looking rack that might have been a little wider - I don't remember why I didn't buy it. Maybe its support bars ran across; maybe the slide mechanism was a pain... Anyway, there are plenty to choose from.
Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
![Image]()
Build it; Don't buy it...
Ford made a great one! /wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif But they installed it on 4-door Explorers, and the tracks are about 1' too long./wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif Every junkyard I went to offered to let me have my pick of roof rack from any vehicle for $30-35 (with me pulling it), but I had to look for a while before I ran across a ~'92 Explorer (I don't really remember what year it was - maybe '95?/wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif). The Isuzu Tooper II had a good-looking rack that might have been a little wider - I don't remember why I didn't buy it. Maybe its support bars ran across; maybe the slide mechanism was a pain... Anyway, there are plenty to choose from.
Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
G
I havnt come across a page featuring that roof-rack. I dont think they are very common. Ive seen various ones on broncos around here but Im sure they were custom made because they some were an all welded aluminum rack. Mine came apart in about 6 peices. 2-formed plates on the bottom, 2-bent bars that go up and over the cap and 2 straight bars that the tie the previous bars together. All steel epoxy coated and worked well if carry heavy loads. I carry'd a 14' aluminum boat a few times up there. My rack is currently sitting in storage.
G
I have taken the pludge, drilled ten holes for the roof rack, no turning back. I hope to have it bolted on tonight. By the way there is 3/4" of fiberglass just to the outside of the seam on the roof, very solid. I will let you know how it goes.
As far a roof racks for Broncos I did some research and found that there are a few aftermarket racks out there that are for Broncos. The best I found is, and the one i am installing is by Yakima. There literature recommends a stationary bar on the cap and a gutter mount bar for the front. The rear bar is either bolted through the side or the top of the cap. That is what most people seem to do.
The draw back to this system is you can not adjust the distance between the bars. The company i bought my rack from was very helpful and recommended a track system. With this system two channels are bolted to the cap and sliding supports are allowed to slide in the channel, much like the racks on the new SUVs. If anyone is interested you can check it out at 4yakima.com I delt with a guy named Jim Pipit who was most helpful.
As far a roof racks for Broncos I did some research and found that there are a few aftermarket racks out there that are for Broncos. The best I found is, and the one i am installing is by Yakima. There literature recommends a stationary bar on the cap and a gutter mount bar for the front. The rear bar is either bolted through the side or the top of the cap. That is what most people seem to do.
The draw back to this system is you can not adjust the distance between the bars. The company i bought my rack from was very helpful and recommended a track system. With this system two channels are bolted to the cap and sliding supports are allowed to slide in the channel, much like the racks on the new SUVs. If anyone is interested you can check it out at 4yakima.com I delt with a guy named Jim Pipit who was most helpful.
G
Project complete. Came out really well. Only problem is I have less than an inch clearance on the garage door, so much for the 32" tires.
You can rent a 110V jackhammer for around $40/day - that should be enough time to lower the garage floor a few inches./wwwthreads_images/icons/laugh.gif
Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
![Image]()
Build it; Don't buy it...
Steve 83 Bronco 4.9L
I bet that thing draws some current! I have the same problem, if I go to 38's I can rule out working on my truck in the garage, unless I air WAY down. I'm about 1/2" from the top of the door as it is. Oh well, small price to pay for massive tirage!
![Image]()
It's a multi-purpose passenger vehicle and it eats SUVs for breakfast...get it straight!
Muddybronco
It's a multi-purpose passenger vehicle and it eats SUVs for breakfast...get it straight!
Muddybronco
G
Thinking about a new garage. That will certainly be cheaper than what is going to happen the first time me or my wife forgets we can not park in the garage. I might as well start shopping for new tops now.
Try sourcing out a metal building for a garage. My brother builds them and he did mine. Total cost for a 22'x26'x12'high garage with two powered 10' overhead doors (tons of room for almost any lifted truck), one man door, and a window was just over $8k. I laid the concrete myself, that helped keep the cost down. These buildings come pre-colored (baked on enamel). I got just a galvanized roof on mine (lower cost). Also fire insurance is real cheap for a metal building.
Pharaoh
Yah baby, That's right! /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
Pharaoh
Yah baby, That's right! /wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif
G
I bought mine at a local 4by shop here in Vancouver Canada. I think they are fabbed up at some metal shop but they must have had some plans from someone. The racks look similar to the ones they put on the back of the more common pickups so see who makes those and see if there is one for the bronco. There might have been a name on the rack and Ill see if I can locate it.
G
Re: Roof Rack & Installation
Morning Steve83,
The rack setup you have looks good and from what you have said, works good too.
I perused the Eastman website and read the info on the thread inserts and have a question. The specs mention that they are for sheet metal. Did you have any problems with the inserts stressing the fiberglass? I was hoping to get some feedback from In Pursuit on how his track system installation was completed and how it is lasting...but he is no longer on the list.
If I decide to go with bolting through the shell, is the headliner easy to remove and put back...or is it better to focus on drilling through and putting a plate/washer and nut over the liner.
I guess one benefit to going through the headliner is the ability to install some sort of rod rack system from the top of the cargo area hmm, thats an idea.
My apologies if these questions have been answered before, but after searching many threads there were still questions.
Thanks for any tips
Randy
Morning Steve83,
The rack setup you have looks good and from what you have said, works good too.
I perused the Eastman website and read the info on the thread inserts and have a question. The specs mention that they are for sheet metal. Did you have any problems with the inserts stressing the fiberglass? I was hoping to get some feedback from In Pursuit on how his track system installation was completed and how it is lasting...but he is no longer on the list.
If I decide to go with bolting through the shell, is the headliner easy to remove and put back...or is it better to focus on drilling through and putting a plate/washer and nut over the liner.
I guess one benefit to going through the headliner is the ability to install some sort of rod rack system from the top of the cargo area hmm, thats an idea.
My apologies if these questions have been answered before, but after searching many threads there were still questions.
Thanks for any tips
Randy
G
Re: Roof Rack & Installation
Thanks for the info, email is rgreer@melbourneflorida.org I guess I just remove the plastic trim around windows and the buttons by rear window and the seat belt hardware to remove headliner?
I did track down the manufacterer of the plus nuts that yakima sells with the track system and the website says it can be used with plastic and fiberglass. I have emailed for clarification, and asking if the product was indeed suited for use in 3/16" fiberglass (I think that is the thickness steve mentioned when he did his rack).
Did you mention that you made your roof rack? How much fabrication was involved? I have no welding capability and am not too sure about building my own racks, but am interested in hearing how you mounted to the shell.
Thanks
Randy
Thanks for the info, email is rgreer@melbourneflorida.org I guess I just remove the plastic trim around windows and the buttons by rear window and the seat belt hardware to remove headliner?
I did track down the manufacterer of the plus nuts that yakima sells with the track system and the website says it can be used with plastic and fiberglass. I have emailed for clarification, and asking if the product was indeed suited for use in 3/16" fiberglass (I think that is the thickness steve mentioned when he did his rack).
Did you mention that you made your roof rack? How much fabrication was involved? I have no welding capability and am not too sure about building my own racks, but am interested in hearing how you mounted to the shell.
Thanks
Randy
G
Re: Roof Rack & Installation
Hey Randy where do you wheel? I just noticed that you're just up the road an hour or so.
Hey Randy where do you wheel? I just noticed that you're just up the road an hour or so.
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