11" ?!!?!? what are you going to do with all that lift? other then tip over..
I know you have a TJ but I have about 9" and I fit 36" not even close to rubing. and the thing flexs very nice...

 

Well with 11" I hope to cram 39.5" boggers under it.I realize the axles won't handle that much tire but will put full size under it once the dana's go to the big bone yard in the sky.

 

That will be a quick trip...the 39.5's will break the stock axles almost the first time you hit the gas....

11" is too much for a TJ. It will be exceptionally unstable, and you will not like the way it handles. A 5.5 RE long arm kit with a 2" body lift and maybe just a little trimming will fit 38 Swampers with ease. I imagine that the 39.5's would fit also. Maybe a little more trimming. Remember, you want as big a tire as possible while keeping the center of gravity as low as possible.

 

I agree, 11" is too much. I'm pissing my pants with my little 5" lift on the CJ on the those off camber trails. But, to your question: We wheeled with a guy last weekend in Clayton that was running the Rock Krawler long arm kit and I was impressed with the flex. I'm sure it would do well on the ramp. He drives the TJ everyday and said it handled just fine. He put the jeep on a big rock and I was sure he was going to turn it over before stopping. All three of the other tires stayed on the ground. Wow.

 

Thanks for the info on the Krawler long arm kit.I haven't seen any installed on anybody's rig.Have a lovely day.

 

If you are going to swap axles as soon as they break (they will), then why spend all of the money on a lift and 39.5" boggers, when, as soon as you try to actually drive it, it will be back in the shop?
You will also have to adapt all of the TJ bracketry to the full size axles, some of which will require a lot of work.
Just want to make you think before you jump into a huge project and spend the next year and several thousand dollars looking at your Tj on jackstands.

 

^^^ OR ^^^ sitting in the backyard broken ^^^ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

I've never run the rock crawler kits but they don't usually have a very good reputation on the net. Check this link about their quality http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=476624

Now on to the crazy amount of lift i knew a kid will 11 or 12" of a lift on a tj and 36's, it was stupid tall and didn't work good in the woods. I don't know the last time i've actually known the number of inches of lift on one of my trail rigs, it doens't matter, just as long as tires fit. I am also a firm believer in bump stops, you don't need 4 million inches of flex or to be able to ramp 2000 on a ramp. Having a trail rig that isn't very tall with a low center of gravity, flexs all right, and has lockers front and rear will wheel circles around a rig that flexes like a slinky, is overly tall, and has open difs. A big pissing match in my club for a while was how tall people's rockers were, it doens't matter, how often do you go if my rockers were 3" taller i wouldn't have gotten stuck.

Making axles live is another thing. Alot of it depends on where you live and what type of wheeling you do. I will agree that a stock dana 30/35 isn't a smart idea with 39.5's but they could survive for a coupel runs. I have a buddy with a pretty heavy full size chevy with a 350 horse small block, a 10 bolt front, and 39.5 boggers and he's been able to keep the 10 bolt alive so far and he isn't easy on it either. 10 bolts are a little stronger then a 30 but not by a whole lot and they have the same ring and pinion. Carry a spare set of everything, the tools to fix it and wheel the jeep instead of making excuses. If you just want to pick up whores at the mall they will last a long time. I'd say 35's or 36's are about the limit for stock tj drive trains and the 35 will last no where near as long as a 44 rear. Regearing is another good idea but you jeep won't all of a sudden not move because you don't have the right gears for your tires. Mud is also 10 times more forgiving on parts then rocks.

The last pet peve of mine for the day who gives a flying frick if you have a tj sahara or sport or x or what ever. It's a tj and all the sahara package means is that you paid more money for stickers, fancy plastic, and a little nicer seats. Rubicons have a little leway here because they do have different axles and a different t-case but they use pretty much the same bolt on part as any other tj.

Ok i'm off my soap box.

 

All I can say is good luck trying to get steering to work with lift like that, you would really have to get a high steer set-up!!!!

Also, you would probably have to drop the xfer case 3" to stop your rear drive line vibrations even with a SYE and CV shaft.

I am running 5.5" springs in front and 4" springs in rear with a 1" body lift and I clear my 37's fine. Even before I flat fendered the front.

I personally would not run over a 37" tire unless I was going to comp. cut the rear wheel wells on my TJ, move the front axle about 3" forward, and the rear axle at least 3" back.

Just my 2 cents!!

 

[ QUOTE ]
10 bolts are a little stronger then a 30 but not by a whole lot and they have the same ring and pinion.

[/ QUOTE ]

10 bolts have a similar ring and pinion to a dana 44, not a 30.

 

Thanks for your input.I think I'll just go with the skyjacker 10" and then maybe the A.C.O.S.'s.

 

That's cool! You'll be the envy of all the Jr. High kids in the area. Maybe even a few High school kids that don't understand the concept of Center of Gravity.

Most people prefer to keep it reasonable and practical, and actually USE it off road.

 

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks for your input.I think I'll just go with the skyjacker 10" and then maybe the A.C.O.S.'s.

[/ QUOTE ]

Somehow I don't suppose you know

ACOS
Arc cosine
Description
float acos ( float arg )

Returns the arc cosine of arg in radians. acos() is the complementary function of cos(), which means that a==cos(acos(a)) for every value of a that is within acos()' range.

So, to keep thing simple, may I suggest you read the story about The Poop Brown Jeep.

 

HELLO!
Is this SWB-BBS or pIRATE 4x4!?!

If this guy wants to built the tallest thing in his club or neighborhood, who are we to say "NO"?!

It's not like he's spaz trying to pick a fight to entertain himself...!

Tell him what he needs for a real trail rig, but give him the information he wants.
He's never going to see us on the trails, so what's the difference?

------------------

LEVE, you hit the head right on the nail! (Again!)

 

Have you ever been wheeling or seen a lifted jeep in action besdies crawling over curbs at the mall? Start small and work your way up. Depending on what type of wheeling your doing a 35-37" tire is just about perfect. I love my 36's and could have gotten 38's but they would make wheeling too boaring and break more parts. Most people that really wheel hard with 40's don't have gobs of lift and have done other things to accomadate those tires. I have a buddy with about the same amount of lift you want, 40's on yj with stock wheel base, and 4.10 geared/ locked dana 44's.The jeep is worthless, breaks parts, and routinely get's schooled by rigs on a 31's with 1 locker and decent drivers.It used to go so much better when it had 4" less lift and bald 35" mud terrains. It definetly impresses whores at the mal but that's about it.

Honestly if you want to run 40's, are droping that much money down, and know how to weld/ fab i would build your own long arm suspension with coil overs that will let you adjust your lift it, also kick the wheel base out to around 100-110". Kicking the wheel base out will allow you to run less lift and have a jeep that climbs and handles much better. Going back to the yj on 40's example he's at the stock jeep 93" wheel base on 40's and i'm on 36's with a 110" wheel base, i can out climb him and most stock wheel base jeeps all day long.

 

Q - Do you really like the 110 wheelbase, or would 105 be more practical. I'm "just before" stretching one.
The longer it is, the more likely it hangs in the middle and doesn't turn as well, yet long climbs and decends better without endo-ing.

Actually, I'm making it variable/stretchable with s flick of a switch. Been thinking 83 to 105.

 

[ QUOTE ]
Actually, I'm making it variable/stretchable with s flick of a switch. Been thinking 83 to 105.

[/ QUOTE ]

Bet LEVE will want a write up on that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Actually, I'm making it variable/stretchable with s flick of a switch. Been thinking 83 to 105.

[/ QUOTE ]

Bet LEVE will want a write up on that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

That'd be one heck of a switch! Maybe the wheelbase fairy could come and hit the Jeep with a magic wand?

 

It should be an interesting project - and fun to use it.

It really isn't all that complicated. I already have most of the materials needed, all I need now is time.

It's not going on a Jeep - yet. I'm doing it to my little toy - a Geo Tracker - 35's, 98:1 crawl ratio, 1950 lbs, etc.

I get lots of laughs at it now, why not a few more? I get the last laugh though, they stop when they see it perform as it is now.

If it works like I hope, next step might be on my M38a1. Then ---?

 

The concept isn't wacco, but I'm wondering what you're going to use to do the stretch and still keep it secure when locked. The lock has to be pretty tough and NEVER fail.

 

Locks - Spring loaded pins not unlike trailer hitch pins.

The entire frame, suspension and all will stretch. The driveshaft needs super long splines, longer brake lines etc. The body won't separate, just everything underneath moves out when I want it to.

It'll be an interesting project.

 

[ QUOTE ]
Locks - Spring loaded pins not unlike trailer hitch pins.

The entire frame, suspension and all will stretch. The driveshaft needs super long splines, longer brake lines etc. The body won't separate, just everything underneath moves out when I want it to.

It'll be an interesting project.

[/ QUOTE ]

So, will those pins be solenoid operated? How will you ensure they can withdraw and insert when they'll be taking a lot of pressure locking the slides? That's a big order!

 

Seems Hydraulic rams would work pretty good, no?

 

At first I was going to use solenoid driven pins and limit switches as dash light indicators. But in keeping with KISS and reliability, I decided against it.
I'll use levers in the cab that will mechanically pull them out and push them back in. I'll be able to reliably "feel" them lock in or out, as well as push and pull with alot of force with the lever, if needed.
Then, once in place, I'll lock the lever. The springs will just help keep them in, but probably won't be necessary.
When driving it in the street (yes it's street legal, insured etc., though rarely driven in the street,) I'll slip Cotter pins in the big pins just for that extra security - just like a trailer hitch pin.

It'll have to be stretched or compressed on a fairly flat surface, not on the side of a hill or in a position where there's strain on the sliders. And, bumping it ahead or reverse will find the pin's slack points. Wiggle wiggle - pop.

Once unlocked, reverse 2wd - let the rear back out from under it to the limit stops. Push the pins in and go for it! Just the opposite when contracting it.

I've heard of folks using hydraulics to do it - but that's far from KISS!

Right now the obstacle - but not impossible - the original driveshaft has the spline in the trans. My new long shaft has to have the spline in the shaft. 2 splines won't work. The trans spline will fall out. I think, but haven't looked yet, that I can drill and thread the tranny shaft and bolt the original spline on permanent. Similar to some slip yoke elimnators. Worst case I can weld it on, but that partially eliminates T-case dissasembly.
Any ideas?

Gotta build some really tall axle stands or a rack first, so I've got room to work sitting up.

 

He He - So actually it's not a "flick of a switch," it's the flip of a lever.