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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I wanna upgrade my 96 bronco and being a newbie, I've read some stuff, sniffed around the bulletin boards, and have developed a mod plan, based upon a few assumptions:

Assumption 1: I will use the Bronco for street work 70% (light commuting), off-roading 25%(no radical crawling or high speed stuff), and posing 5%


Assumption 2: If I sell my 91 Nissan 240SX, I will have a budget of approx $3,500 (minus bribes to the squaw - ie jewelry, etc.)

Assumption 3: I should try to get some use out of the new 29.5 inch tires the old owner installed just before I bought the Bronco.

1. Audio upgrade (complete)
2. CB radio and antenna
3. Interior safety eqpt

4. cold air intake and cat-back exhaust
5. Chip tune/upgrade

6. Rear manual locker (Leaning towards ARB)
7. R&R Auto hubs with manual hubs
8. 4" suspension lift (Not sure which)
9. New tires - I think I can go with 33's

If anyone has other suggestions or ideas on how to improve this plan I would appreciate the advice...thx, Tom
 

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Four half inch nuts will allow you to clear the Firestone Wilderness AT III on stock rims with NO LIFT.

Use the autos until they blow. Others will say differently but unless you are getting into some serious stuff and have no help then I would wait for then to go.

You can nickle and dime the performance stuff like cat backs, chips, msd, etc but what do you want? real power only comes one way that is a big motor. MSD and a K&N filter replacement NOT THE FIPK (POS).

ARB they are cool but for limited offroading..... get good tires.

I am not trying to shoot you down but just bring reality into this. I drive my truck on the road 95% of the time. I want an ARB and a big lift but you need to start small. Go with the bumper mod and the 33s. When that gets old then think about the your game plan and upgrade something else like the ARB or Lift kit.

JMTCW
 

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2. $130 for a Cobra 29 LTD Classic (don't get Night Watch); $15 for ant. cable; $8 for ant. mount; $20 for a Skip Shooter ant.
3. $15 for an ABC fire extinguisher
4. $15 for enough foil-faced self-adhesive foam tape to insulate the fresh air duct up to the throttle body; dunno on the cat-back

My advice is always to start with good maintenance & repair - get a Haynes manual and read it cover-to-cover, then go thru Ch.1 and do everything the truck needs. THEN start with the mods...
 

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Not a bad plan. and some good suggestions. I especially like doing the maintenance/reading up first and safety items/recovery items. Also, that chip BS, don't bother. Why do you want to pump 93 octane into it the rest of her life? Buy a K&N Filter replacement, no BS FIPK $$$$ cold air junk. bigger tires mean gear change, so I agree, if you really think you will never catch the "serious" off-roaders bug, then 33's on 8" wheels with very minimal lift or trimming is all you need. And swap the gears to 4.10. don't bother with an ARB, too much money for what you want to do. Get a lock-right in the rear, and a mild mud type tire and call it a day. You are sitting on the fence, and as you state, leaning toward the pavement side, not the grass and trees.


Almost forgot, the auto hubs should be the first to go. In my case, the only times they ever failed were off-road, in MAJOR inconvenient times/areas. NOT worth the hassle, save the embarassment.
 

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My cat back system w/duals out the back (I wouldn't do unless you don't like the rear window down)I go topless quite often and it's no problem, cost $300- that included Vortex-muffler 3"in dual 3" out with the 18" chrome extentions (Unless your in for looks these could be deleted and save about $30). But a little looks don't hurt, I get compliments all the time. Makes you feel good. I also had to have the pipe from the manifolds back that was another $300(beats $1500 from the dealer) but I did take the cats off
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thnks for the advice everyone. I really appreciate it! It sounds like I could put the 33s on-board by only doing the front-bumper mod (nice pics, you guys). Juice - Are the 4.10s a must-have with 33s? What is the trade-off if I don't re-gear?

Again, thanks for everyone's advice...

p.s. I took the squaw to the store for groceries for the first time today, heh heh...she got slightly pissed cause I was testing out the new CD player at close to max volume...:)
 

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I am running the stock 3.55 gears and the 33s. I got no problems doing what I want to do. Mind you I don't ask for too much from my truck but I like the gear ratio I ended up with.
 

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It will work as Havack says. I ran 33's with stock gear shortly in Denver. It sucked majorly. Altitude means less power and without the gearing, well, hard to believe a 351 can be such a dog. Anyway, at sea level it will be fine, just avoid altitude or heavy towing. Got a 351? If not, the 302 will just exacerbate the problem. Won't be using OD much anymore. As I recall, you will run something like 1600 RPM at 60 in OD, so any hills will make it want to hunt down out of OD.
 

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i ran 33's with 3.08's for about a year, until i blew the rear. (not necessaroly conenected) Then i upgraded to the 4.10's. Talk about a difference! the power gain is nuts. But, i rev alot higher now. A little too high, IMO. But then again, i have a C6. If i had OD, itd be perfect. For 33's 3.55 should be good. Dont they make a 3.73 gear set? That would kick [censored]
 

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a 3.73 is available RepT, however, it would be unwise to change from a 3.55 set to 3.73 just for 33's, no matter what tranny you are running. And, since you are not running an E4OD, you don't realize the difference the OD makes. 4.10 swap would be the minimum, or forget it, not worth the cost.
 
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