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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If the rear seal on a 258 is leaking, what should it cost to have a mechanic fix it?

jpjeep
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
well, the rear main seal is a split-two part seal that can be replaced without removing the drive train, but most mechanic shops will tell you it has to be removed knowing damn well it does not. all that has to be done is remove the oil pan, remove the main block in the rear and the bottom part of the seal will probably fall out and the top part can be pulled out with needlenose. put it back together and that is it. i think a shop would charge about 200-300........i do not know really because i replaced mine myself, but i think that is a good ballpark figure......

 

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It should be around 2 - 3 hour labor....depending on how much the mech has to do to drop the exhaust (if anything)....it should be approx. the same as r & r for an oil pump......it ran me $185 (on my TJ) including new oil and filter .......parts cost should be next to nothing. Local rates here in eastern PA are around $50-60/hr.

GeeAea

 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My motto seems to be "why do something once, when you can do it twice". Numerous times I have had to do things more than once, but I guess that I am slowly becoming experienced. This past summer I swapped in a 4.0 for my old 4.2. The project was split between two mechanic friends (that is a story in itself) and I wanted all new gaskets, seals etc. Hey, everything was going to be apart. Finally when the jog was done and I had been driving it for about a week we put it up on the hoist to check everything out. I noticed a leak and yep sure enough it was the rear seal leaking. Will be a weekend project real soon I hope. Glad to know that it should only take a few hours. I was dreading that the drivetrain was going to have to be taken apart./wwwthreads_images/icons/blush.gif

Cutch 88YJ
 

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Yes, you're lucky this isn't the "Ford 300 L6 truck block 4X4" forum........because that's what you'ld be doing......much ..much work.
GeeAea

 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
jpc, just as a precaution you should check, double check, and recheck that the leak isn't coming from the very rear of your valve cover. I had this problem on my 258. The chrysler dealers shop swore up and down that it was the rear main, but I figured I would be better off making sure the seal on the valve cover was good first (for $20 or so) rather than shell out the cash they wanted to do the rear main ($400something). So I put a good bead of high temp silicone sealant under that plastic pos and sure enough it solved 99% of my oil leak. I might put a drop of oil in once a month now but that's it. Just my .02

Sully CJ-7 Laredo 258 w/HEI

 
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