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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1985 258 CJ-7. Driving back and forth to Atlantic City every day. Maybe a 1/4 cup of engine oil drains down over course of whole day sitting from rear of engine. Replaced valve cover gasket-no leaks. Rubber boot at clutch fork rotted away in short order. Clutch has low miles. Boot replaced at clutch time. Got 3 books, read all three. Any recommendations?? Tanksssssssss.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow! That sounds like a good idea. I wish I'd thought of that. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 

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I'm not being a smart-a$$, just factual.

If you've read three books, and I'm a$$uming you did a "Rear Main Seal" search then you pretty much know what to do... and how to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just thought I heard somethin' 'bout somebody havin' trouble with the pan clearing the engine mounts. ???. Should I do the front at the same time? I guess I'll just get everything that I think I'll need and have at it someday.
 

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The engine must be supported and the right side motor mount removed to get the pan off.

As for the front seal, if it's not leaking I wouldn't mess with it. More than just an opinion; it's my general attitude toward changing things.
 

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I can tell you one thing for sure, if that oilpan has never been down be ready for a rough time. unless you are pretty lucky. when I did my '80 258 on an engine stand with it upside down and could not believe how hard it was stuck on there.
I think but can't be sure, someone makes a tool like one of those old time paint scrapers for this purpose. It may be worth looking into possible ways and means before getting into it, I used a putty knife and what ever I could find to get it off.With a hammer as well. cause it can really slow ya down.
another time I had to drop the pan to check out a rod knock and I used a two by four run in the direction of the engine from the cowl to the radiator /grill. with a chain to suppurt the engine after it was jacked up.
a long pipe or two by four may come in handy if you need to pry the engine from one side to the other. You may also need to jack it up and down a bit either way to clear the pickup tube.You really don't want to mess with the pickup tube if you don't have to.

Good luck
 

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I use a bottle jack and a piece of wood under the crank pulley for lift. A dead blow hammer worked to get my pan loose. Lots of beating with no damage. Leave about four bolts half way in and beat away until the pan comes loose. The four bolts keep it from smacking your melon.

Also I don't think anyone has mentioned it yet. Get a nice one piece silicone pan gasket to go back together with. They're about $35 but well worth it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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I'm not sure about the 80's CJ 258, but I have removed an AMC V8 oil pan in a 79 CJ7 and a 258 oil pan in an 88 YJ both without having to remove an engine mount. Also, when you put the pan back up, get the 4.0L oil pan gasket. It is more expensive but it is one piece, rubber and has inserts where the bolts go through.
 

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Nope, CJs have that nasty right side motor mount that is a royal PITA! Not that the jov isn;t still very doable, but oh man now much easioer it would be without that mount design. The wranglers went to a way more simple motor mount for both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks to everyone. We're gonna give it hell before it gets too cold.
 

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On my 80 CJ the pan would come off and on with the mount still on but one of the bolts was imposible to remove without pulling the mount. Once I had the bolt out and pan off I reattached the mount as I also had the transmission off and did not want the engine to fall on me. When I put it back together the pan went on with the mount in and I left that troublesome bolt. It never leaked. And will be much easier to redo if needed.
 
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