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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, shes leaking (surprise), will be doing it this weekend and want to be
sure of the process
Its a 258 motor
Understand that I can remove the pan, remove the rear main bearing cap and
then what. Something about poking it out gently with a screwdriver.
Now how do I get the new one in?

Is there a link that someone has that will explain this process a lil
better that I just did?
Or can someone give me better detailed steps that I will be able to
follow?


Chu
YJ-7
V.P. New England 4x4
Yankee Toys
EC4WDA

 

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I've not done this yet myself, but you have the idea as I understand it. You may have to loosen all of the mains to allow the crank to drop slightly. Push in on one end of the seal with a punch or maybe a blunt instrument. When it sticks out the other side pull it out with pliers. Oil up the new seal and slide it in. Clean off the excess oil off the ends so the sealer will stick to it. (I think your supposed to use RTV where the upper and lower halves meet up. )

Loose nut behind the wheel
Another right-wing conservative.....
Born and raised in Jeep-Town
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have done it so let me give you a couple more pointers.
Follow Loosenuts instructions except for the loosing of the other main caps. There is not enough 'slack' in the crank for it to drop down...the front shaft of the transmission is keeping it up. So just remove the rear main and leave the others attached.
You will most likely need a punch to get the seal out. BE VERY CARFUL when you are hitting it on one side.....you don't want your punch to jump up and hit the crank bearing surface. On mine, I had to give it several hard whacks before the seal started to slid out.

Make sure you put it back in the right way...the lip should be towards the front. If you want, you can put a little RTV between the but ends of the seal, but I really don't think you will need it. The hardest part is getting the pan gaskets back up in the proper position. When you see the gaskets, you will see what I mean. The main gasket has to go against the block before you install the end seals. RTV does a good job of holding them in place....unless of course you can turn your jeeps upside down....

Good Luck

John......southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Locker, Solid Axle's, Durabak
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How long a time span should I allow for this replacement

and not shore what you mean by this

The main gasket has to go against the block before you install the end seals

Chu
YJ-7
V.P. New England 4x4
Yankee Toys
EC4WDA

 

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The pan gasket is in 4 pcs. 2 cork sides, which go on first, and 2 rubber ends that go on last.

Loose nut behind the wheel
Another right-wing conservative.....
Born and raised in Jeep-Town
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Figure about 2-3 hours....you may have to unbolt the motor mount on the right side for the pan to clear it.

Sorry about the wrong word....I meant gasket instead of seal. As Loosnut said, its in 4 parts...you put the long side pieces on first and then the end gaskets. When you get the gasket, you will see what I mean. On the rear gasket, there is a groove that fits over a tab on the side cork gasket.

Have fun............

John......southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Locker, Solid Axle's, Durabak
 

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I just did the rear seal on mine a couple of weeks ago. 'Twas leaking about a quart every 100 miles.Took the better part of the day, but part of that time was fixing my parts washer (I like to clean anything I have off and replacing a broken motor mount (fortunately it was the one that needed to be removed anyway. The actual seal replacement (after the pan was off, etc.) was probably the easiest part. I was real happy when a sliver of the old seal cracked off in my hand-- instant gratification that the seal was in fact bad, so my work wasn't wasted! BTW, the book says to use a brass drift to start the upper half out-- I didn't have one so I used a 10-32x3" brass machine screw instead.

The worst part was breaking off the very last oil pan bolt. Couldn't torch it with the gasket in place, no way in hell I was gonna drop the pan again, so I drilled it and broke an EZ-out (harder than any known drill bit) in the bolt for good measure, then slathered on lotsa RTV all over it. Hasn't leaked since./wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

-Dana

Balance the budget--declare politicians a game species.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Like the others, I replaced mine by removing the rear bearing cap and leaving the others alone. I used a carpenter's nail set to drive the old one out. To repeat what another poster said, *be very careful* doing this. You could have someone turn the engine while driving the old one out and/or setting the new one in. Just be sure that you're turning the engine in the proper operating direction and therefor sliding the seal in/out in that same direction.

As far as the 4-piece oil pan gasket though, Jeep dealers and NAPA now carry a one piece rubber gasket which I believe is superior to the cork/rubber 4-piece combo. It runs about $40 though. Again, to repeat what has been said here, be *very careful* seating the new oil pan gasket. Especially in the back by the flywheel. Its real hard to see if its set right. If you're due for a clutch job, that would be a great time to replace the rear seal and it would be a lot easier to seat that oil pan gasket.

Good luck!
Chris

'85 CJ7/258
 
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