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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What does replacing the rear crossmember on the frame of an 84 CJ-7 involve? What tools are needed to do it? Does it have to be torched/cut off, or just unbolted? I already have the tub and gas tank removed, so getting access to it is not a problem.
Thanks,

Dan 84 CJ-7,Weber,HEI. 95 ZJ,V8. http://netnow.micron.net/~wdohrn/
 
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It's spot welded on. If you haven't got a new one yet, 4WD Hardware makes a nice heavier one.

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)
 

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The job is not hard if you have the right tools. The crossmember is held on by two "L" brackets. These brackets are bolted, with two bolts per bracket to the inside of the frame just above the rear spring hangers. Two more bolts then bolt the rear crossmember to the bracket. Also, for safety, the rear crossmember is then tack welded (a small bead weld) accross the top of the crossmember to the top of the rear tail frame. Two more bolts secure the back of the tub to the rear crossmember though the body mounts. 4WDrive Hardware have these crossmembers for about $70, pre-drilled and made of good metal.

You will need the following tools.

1. Standard Wrenches, sockets and ratchets (with a good cheater bar).
2. Die grinder, or cutoff tool, or drill mounted disk cutting wheel.
3. Cold Chisle.
4. Small "buzz box" welder or equivelent.

May I suggest the following?

1. Jack the vehicle up and put Jackstands under the axles.

2. Drain and Drop the Gas tank. You will need some room to work.! The tank skid plate is held in with bolts to a frame crossmember in the front and several more hold the rear of the plate to the rear crossmember you need to replace. Now you can see the frame and the rear crossmember.

3. Remove the two bolts through the frame rails and "L" brackets.

4. Remove the two body mount bolts.

5. Remove the two bolts on the "L" Brackets that secure the crossmember.

6. Use a grinding wheel or cold chisle to break the tack weld.

7. Remove the crossmember from the tail frame rails.

Now you may be shocked at what you see. Bolts will be rusted on and be hard to remove. I suggest cutting bolts and nuts with a cutting tool to minimize damage. Also, be careful on removing the bolts on the body mounts. It's likely these are also rusted on and will twist off the when you turn them. The mounts may also twist off, in which case you will need to replace the rear body crossmember (JCWhitney has them for cheap). Examine the rear of the tail frame rails very carefully for rust. Water can gather in this area with no exit area and rust he heck out of the frame. Look at:

vanevery.homestead.com

Follow the Jeep links to see the repair of the rear tail frame and it will let you know what you may be in for.... not an uncommon repair. I hope you get off lucky. If you have other questions, let me know.. been there, done that!

Good Jeepin'

Larry
 
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Normally I don't read these posts, cause it isn't something I have done or anticipate doing in the near future. Have no idea why I clicked on it, but I did, and I read it and wanted to say the following:

Larry, wanted to go on record to say this is a fine response. Am inclined to print it out to keep should I ever have to do this job. You did good !!!

Doug '97 TJ
My Web Site
 

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Here's another "Atta-Boy" for Larry V.

On my ' 84 CJ, I elected not to spend the $70.00 for the replacement crosmember. I bought a piece of steel channel for about $10.00. I think it was 3 1/2" X 1 1/2". I had to drill some holes in it and grind some notches to make it fit, but now it's much heavier than the flimsy crossmember that Jeep used.

Loose nut behind the wheel
Another right-wing conservative.....
Born and raised in Jeep-Town
 

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I'd like applaud Loosenuts efforts making his own rear crossmember, and all you fellow Jeepers who wear it out, use it up, repiar it, and start all over agian.

It has been my rule of thumb that if the store bought part costs more than the total of the raw materials to duplicate the part plus cost of the tools to do the job... buy the material and the tools. That way one gains:

1. Knowledge.
2. Experience.
3. Tools.
4. A wonderful custom finished part.
5. Bragging rights.

My CJ ain't much to look at, but am getting to know every inch, inside and out, of 'er.

Good Jeepin'

Larry
 
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Leve-
That response of yours is one of the best I've seen, period. You are to be commended and recommeded and lauded and applauded. Very well done!!!!!! (If I had a clue as to the moonguy deal then I'd give you two whole lines of them!)
sln

 
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WOW, a 24 MoonGuy raiting! That was fun THANKS!

Perhaps we should start to make a MoonGuy raiting for mods and for problem resolutions... in honor of CJDaves creation. Perhaps a raiting of 1 to 10 MG's for difficuity and 1 to 10 MG's for accuracy of the resouliton. IMH this would be a lot of fun to start and help set ORC, and all of you, apart from other forums.

I've always want to rate furniture castors... then of course (OK, it's a stretch) start the NCRB, the National Castor Raiting Breau, where there wil be no bull!

Good Jeepin'

Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A public thanks to you Larry. With the help of your instructions, a bigger hammer, a few grinder discs, a hacksaw, a prybar, a cold chisel, one bruised hand and lots of yelling, the crossmember is off...it's in about 5 pieces, but I'm going to replace it anyway. Your instructions were perfect, although I found one difference with my 84 CJ-7. The crossmember was also tack welded to both sides of the frame rail in addition to the top. I couldn't get a grinder in there, so that caused some serious delays, but nothing a bigger hammer couldn't solve. Now...do I make or buy a crossmember...
Thanks again,

Dan 84 CJ-7,Weber,HEI. 95 ZJ,V8. http://netnow.micron.net/~wdohrn/
 
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