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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's a few shots of my rear bumper. It's nearing completion, but I wanted to get some feedback. Think it'll hold? I think I kind over built it

 

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Naah,
Looks fine. What did you use to cut the "tab" slots with, that was probably the hardest part on mine. I don't have a torch or plasma cutter, so I to cut, grind, and generally finagle them into shape.

BMB
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You used a grinder?!
What size grinder do you have? I don't think it would of been possible to cut those slots with my 4.5" grinder. I could maybe get the long side, but not the short sides.

I ended up taking the bumper to Newberg Steel(best place in the world) and had them use a plasma cutter to cut the slots. He charged $2.50 a cut. Maybe a little pricey, but I think it's fair. Ended up costing $15 total for all six cuts. He did a great job too! Cut pretty much right on my lines I scribed.

The only thing I have left is to measure the holes for the shackles and have those drilled, then I need to weld it all together! That's gonna be tricky! Gonna have to weld the tabs to the front and back of the bumper at the perfect length, then put the c-channel on and flush weld the tab on the back of that, then run a LONG [censored] bead connecting the c-channel to the bumper. Not sure yet if I'm gonna cut some notches in the top of the c-channel to get to the bolts, or just weld the bolts or nuts to the c-channel. What sounds best?
 

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On my bumper I made most of my cuts with a Bosch jig saw. This is a $160 jigsaw that I use for construction work. It is great for cutting metal. I made my slots by drilling a hole and then cutting with the jigsaw. If you have a jigsaw, buy some good blades and give it a try. You will be amazed at how well it cuts. I rarely cut anything with the grinder anymore.

Later,
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Would the jigsaw cut 3/16"? How thick can it go? I used a jigsaw on my fenders and it worked great, but then it seized to be
Stupid thing fried itself. Oh well, the sucker must of been a 30 year old Black & Decker Pecker Recker.
 
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Okay, CJ owner here. What are the slots for. What is the purpose of the bar going into the slot and what is the angle iron for.
 

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Jammy, I cut 1/4 routinely with my Dewalt. It will even do 3/8, but is very very slow. I tried cutting 1/4" with my 40 yearold Craftsman, no way!

I will often use the jig saw instead of the torch. It saves lots grinding time.
 

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I have cut 3/8" with the jigsaw. It will cut 1/4" no problem. My saw has an oscilatting head. That means that the blade moves up and down and strokes forward at the same time. If you want to increase your blade life use cutting oil. Just buy some good bi-metal blades with 14-18 teeth per inch.

Later,
 
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I too am wondering what the bars in the slots are for and what's the purpose of the channel. Are you replacing the crossmember with the channel? Are the tabs for attaching the bumper to the sides of the frame? Give up the scoop James.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This clear it up?:)

Geez, if I'd of known those tabs where going to be that big of a mystery, I'd of waited to get the holes drilled and the shackles installed before taking and posting pics
Hope the pic clears up that mystery for you all. Think they'll hold? He used a punch instead of a drill to make the holes, and in the process bent the damn 3/4" metal. I was a little peeved since I took forever to get them to fit just right. Anyway, he put in another machine and bent it back. It's pretty straight, but has a groove/notch in it from the machine. It was just a slight bend to begin with. Think I'm alright?

As for the c-channel, I opted to use that so I could push the bumper out from the body a bit. I did that because I'm planning on adding a tire carrier in the near future and didn't want the tire carrier hitting/rubbing the body or being to close. So this should push it out just a bit. It also hides the bolts giving it a nice flush look. Someone else on this board did a similiar thing with c-channel on their bumper. Maybe it was Inferno? Not sure...
 

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jammy,
Yep I used a 4.5" grinder with a cut off wheel to cut the slots on the long side (plunge cut) and then drilled mutiple holes across the short side until I could knock out the slots. I smoothed up the short sides with a small grinding die (I told you it involved finagling). My slots were for 3"H x 1"W tabs.

If it were me, on the C channel, I would get a hole saw and cut some holes for access to the nuts. You could put plugs in the holes like the ons used in the floor pan. The holes would also allow you to flush mud/dirt out of the channel out at more just the ends.

BMB
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was thinking about cutting some holes in the top of the c-channel for accessing the bolts. I'm not sure if I'm going to leave the bolts loose, or weld them in place. What do you guys think? Also, any idea how the hell to paint the inside once it's all put together? I could paint most of it before hand, but the welding will burn most of it off.
 
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Re: This clear it up?:)

Now please tell us all that you're not just going to use the eight bolts in the crossmember to hold this all together! You have some way of tying it all into the frame right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: This clear it up?:)

At the time being, that's all I'm going to have holding it on. I haven't figured out a way at all to tie it into the frame. I'd like to stick a few L-brackets behind the crossmember and then attach those to the frame, but there's no place to do it. I can't do it like the CJ's and TJ's do it because my shackle is mounted right in the middle of the frame rail. What should I do? This has been haunting my mind for quite a while. I just can't figure out a good way to do it:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: This clear it up?:)

That would work great, except for one problem(sad)........my shackle. I could move my shackle mount down to the bottom fot he frame, but that's more work than I'm wanting to do right now. Plus, I don't need the added lift at the moment. So, where does this leave me? I was thinking maybe I could drill a few holes after the crossmember, before the shackle. Do you think this would interfere with my shackle? I also have a single hole on the bottom of the frame that I could use, but I'm sure I'd want more than that holding it. Any ideas?
 

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Re: This clear it up?:)

There I go again forgetting that the YJ shackle mounts to the frame. Weld a tab to your bumper or channel and use that hole in the bottom of the frame. Anything you can do to tie it to the frame will be better than the crossmember alone. I've seen two stout, homemade bumper get pulled right out of the crossmember when no frame tie-in was done. That crossmember is only 10 gauge stamped steel and will not withstand any repeated pulling. It will hold for a few tugs, but not many.
 
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