[87zuke]

I am building up a rearend. I want to put on a set of 410 backing plates that I have. I have a full set of axles with brakes, drums, bearings, etc. From what I have read I need to remove the bearings and slide the axles out then drill out the backing plates, add the 410 plates reinstall the bearings. I found this article Rear Bearings But do I need to destroy the retaining ring/bearings to get them off? The bearings seem OK so I want to reinstall them. Thanks. Jim

 

[CrowHorse]

Jim, I don't think it's a wise idea to reuse the bearings... If funds allow, I would go with new bearings and then you'll have no worries.....

 

[CrowHorse]

Beg, borrow or steal a slide hammer. It will make pulling the axles (if you haven't already) way easy......

 

[13337]

Cutting the backing plates takes a little time , they are made out of good steel . Having done this I dont see a way to do it without removing the bearings . And the flipside is that when you remove the bearings you will most likely destroy them .I gotta agree with Crowe , pick up a new set and you will be happier in the long run .

 

[1339]

In reply to:

do I need to destroy the retaining ring/bearings to get them off? The bearings seem OK so I want to reinstall them.

[/ QUOTE ]

Crow is right. Its unlikely the bearings will survive. It's definit the retainers wil not. The retainers are a
one use iten intended to be a press fit. once pressed the are streched out and wil not properly retain the
axle in place. You don't want an axle comming out of the housing on the road, it would be ugly.

If you knew the berings were new or near new, AND you can get them pressed off carfully, AND you can
buy the retainers separately. you might re-use just the bearings. But as said, it's probably not worth the
effort nor the loss of peace of mind.

 

[87zuke]

Ok Will go with the new bearings. Now next question: Is that a local part store part or a Zuke vendor part? Thanks. Jim

 

[841]

well if you go to rear disks all you would need to do is cut down the existing backing plate this is how mine are done and I love the rear disks just for the info trailtough sells a bracket kit for samurai calipers and disks for $100 I spent allmost that much on machining and parts to do the weld on conversion

 

[87zuke]

Crow, These are apart but I have a cheapie slide hammer I bought from JC Whitney. Cheap but effective

Thanks. Jim

 

[Guest]

I have tried to remove bearings before.
I tried to make a jig and use a press, I got bored after two evenings and gave up. I also tried to cut the axle shaft between the bearing and flange - Futile, The axle is a high quality steel and the band saw barely scratched it. So I used a cut off wheel, the heat from cutting the axle burned up the rubber skirt on the outside of the bearing If you have a full shop complete with liquid nitrogen, I think you can do it. Otherwise, I would have to be in the middle of a third world country with no other options before I would take the time and effort to try to remove another bearing and retainer without destroying them.

The cheapest place I have found to buy rear wheel bearings is road less gear even after shipping.
www.roadlessgear.com

A side note, for your spare axles, you can cut the backing plate off and only leave the center portion the same size as the SJ410 bearing retainer and use that.
We had to do that for Zukiman out in the field last March. Fortunately we had a member with an air cut off wheel to cut Lorne's backing plate down to make a retainer.
My spares, I took the bearings off and carried them as shafts only with a bearing and retainer in the tool box - nice clean and dry. I also carried a section of pipe to drive the new bearing and retainer on in the field. That also offsets costs by allowing you to purchase one bearing and retainer to use for either side when needed.

 

[Brown29]

Hawk Suzuki has Koyo bearings, seal, retainer, and spacer for $30.00 per side.

 

[2420]

Just did the same mod a few months ago. It takes a little longer than you think but is well worth it when U need to pull the axles.

1) You will have to remove/destroy the first set of bearings to get the axle out of the backing plate so you can drill it. A small dremmel tool works well to cut the bearings off. Cut them on both sides and they will fall right off. Be carefull not to knick the axle shaft.

2) Once you have the axle out you can drill the backing plate hole. A 3" hole saw is the perfect size.

3) Once you have one good backing plate per side drilled out. You can just cut the backing plates off your spares with a hack saw and cary the shafts only. I cary spares with the original bearings on them but remove the drum/lug nuts to keep them from getting torn up.

By the way a hi-lift jack works well as a slide hammer. just bolt the flat end / bottom to the lug/drum nut and put a 1/2" bolt in the other end (top) of the hi-lift. Click the hi-lift into lower mode where the body will slide freely along the shaft. You can slide the body quickly to the top of the hi-lift smacking into the 1/2 bolt. It works very well. A J**p buddy of mine figured this out on the trail one day and it saved my bacon when my slide hammer crapped out.

 

[1339]

In reply to:

I cary spares with the original bearings on them but remove the drum/lug nuts to keep them from getting
torn up.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hulk, You can put on a spare set of lug nuts to keep them protected. If still too long, either double the
nuts or add some washers to the stack. They might even come in handy during a break, or if you lose some
lug nuts. (naw that never happened to me....

)