Im a little confused at what your trying to say.

 

Id say that you could get anywhere where from 4-5 out of it with the stock bars or rancho bars, I asked this awhile ago since I just wanted a 4" lift and wanted ranchos new kit, wich comes out to 5.25. I figured if it actually come out that high Id just decrank the bars about 5 turns,

but I never actually got the kit so Im not 100% positive on that, guess im only 80%, but now that my trucks lifted about 4.5-5"s I cant hardly belive I ever wanted just 4", now Id go with the full 5"s maybe more, depending on the lift.

 

Actually, when you put the kit together per Rancho's instructions, it comes out at 5.25". To make it sit lower up front would be like taking your stock truck and "decranking" the torsion bars so the front end goes lower and lower. Same sort of problems as cranking your torsion bars, only in reverse. It wouldn't be healthy for your truck, not to mention your ride would get "spongier"./wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif

On the torsion bars, no, you don't have to reuse your stock bars. Since you have the regular 1/2 ton bars, you have many options. You can go get one of the larger GM bars, Z71, 2500LD, 2500, and 3500 bars. Also, you can get the Rancho or Rough Country bars, and lastly, Sway-A-Way sells some pretty good bars. I'm not certain, but I beleive Rhinoz71 said the Sway-A-Ways were 2 stage, which means they have seperate characteristics for large impacts (jumping or high speed offroading for instance) and small impacts (just driving around on the road for example). My buddy has a set of Sway-A-Way's on his 92 Toyota, and they are quality at a good price./wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif I have the Rancho bars on my truck, but if I had it to do all over again, I'd either get the Sway-A-Way's or go junkyard hopping and go find a set out of a 2500 or 3500 truck for cheap./wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif

Aircraft, Cars, and Me

 

I think that what he was asking that if he used his stock t-bars would the lift still gain him a full 5.25"s of lift compared to ranchos bars, wich isnt what he wants.

decranking the t-bars will only be hard on the cv shafts, if, and this is a big if or i just havent read through everything enough, if the rancho drop brackets drop the dif a full 5.25 inches, Im guessing they drop it more like 4"s and when you follow there install directions they have you crank the bars just tad more, heck who knows for sure if ranchos lift is even a full, 5.25??? ive never installed and measure one so I dont know, I know people say they have but realy how do we know for sure???

so heres the question. rancho sales a 4" kit so something wrong if you cant get 4"s out off, they must have known some people would only want 4"s aposed to 5.25. they never advertise it that, and I guess they cant but I belive since they do advertise a 4" lift then you can get a comfortabel 4"s out of it. and I think that would also give the best ride and be easest on susp componets, heck youd even have more adjust in the a arms when it come to time to align it.

sorry this is long

so does anyone know excatly how much the dif is dropped, if you have the kit could you crawl under and find out, better yet ill just call rancho.

Evan

 

I've talked to several people with the newer Rancho kit, and all of them place it in the 5-5.25" range. I just say 5.25" because several of them said exactly that. The kit I got to examine on a Tahoe had at least 5" of drop, if not more. I didn't have a tape measure, so I used the old knuckle to tip of thumb = 1" or so measurement, and it was at least 5".

My personal theory on the taller than 4" kit is because Rancho a long time ago said that lifts taller than 4" weren't safe for big trucks. Meanwhile, all the other companies are selling taller than 4" lift kits and people are driving around on them safely every day. So Rancho is loosing out on all that money, especially the taller than 4" GM IFS truck lift market. So when they replaced their old junk 4" lift, they "accidentally" made it a bit taller. Put it together and wow, it's 5.25". 3/4" crank on the torsions, and you have a 6" lift./wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Meanwhile, retracting their long held statement against taller lifts would be a loss of face after so long, so they just keep refering to it as a 4" kit.

I still say decranking is bad. Look at all the rice rocket owners that cut their springs on their Hondas. Tires sitting all cockeyed and wearing funny, don't align, suspension and steering wearing out......... Decranking your torsions would be doing exactly the same thing.

Aircraft, Cars, and Me

 

welllll, ill call racno tomorrow since there tech dept seems to be close right now, man I thought those guys worked 24/7 lol

I still cant see why you couldt get a reliable 4" lift from ranchos 4" lift kit.
and if the lift does regure an alittle decrank to make it 4"""'s then the cvs will run flatter less waer and tear, plus it will have more room to align, the cams will have more room, at least thats how i see it,
Ive done alimnets myself on few stock ifs chevy trucks but never one with anything more than a t-bar tweak, so maybe I just dont know what Im talking, compard to ones that are lifted

 

I want the Rancho, but I want the minimum that I can safely get right now. I also want to be able to align it. I thought maybe if I used my T-bars and not theirs it wouldn't set too high. Like I said after I graduate and sell my Prelude and buy a new truck, I can crank it up and get new T-bars and 35's on this one. Never thought I'd say "sets too high"?

If it don't fit force it, and if all else fails get a bigger hammer!

 

I say just put it together the way they say to, and live with it. Better to have it put together the way it's intended, then to be messing with it and wearing things out. Stop putting the looks before the functionality, that usually leads to problems.

Using different torsion bars won't affect ride height, just ride quality and the amount of travel the IFS has. 3500 (1 ton) bars can be cranked or "decranked" to sit just as low or high as your stock 1/2 ton bars. Thing is, the 1 ton bars will ride better and leave you with more travel no matter what. They're thicker, have more "potential twist" in them, so it takes less tension to crank the truck up with them. Understand?

I gotta go cut down a Christmas tree. Later./wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif

Aircraft, Cars, and Me

 

I understand your reasoning. But I have to question the ride quality. If they would ride better wouldn't the 1 ton T-bars come stock on the 1/2 ton, where ride ride quality is paramount? I think they would be stiffer and transfer more energy to the chassis. Harsher on road but maybe "tighter" off road.

If it don't fit force it, and if all else fails get a bigger hammer!

 

Anyone have any pictures of 33's with the Rancho lift?

If it don't fit force it, and if all else fails get a bigger hammer!

 

why not just run 33s with no lift? thts what i have on kine and it works well.
---Peacock

96 Z-71 EXTcab, richmond 3.73, detroit rear, cold air, dual flowmasters, new drive-train

 

For the picture, look through the Reader's Rides section off the main ORC/Chevy page. Guy who posts here occasionally has his truck on there. Has the newer 4" lift and 33x12.5R15 BFG AT's. Has kinda a flashy paint job, you'll see it.

Okay, on the ride quality, here goes:
First off, you're assuming to much about the manufacturer. Anything to save a buck, so why put the thicker 1 ton torsions which cost a little bit more to make on every IFS truck? Saves them money. I'm not saying the ride quality of the 1 ton bars is necessarily better, just that their greater tension potential means the ride doesn't get stiffer as fast as it does with the 1/2 ton bars as you crank them up. Basically, crank up some 1/2 ton bars 2", and your truck is going to ride like a buckboard wagon. Crank the 1 ton bars up 2", and the ride would be a bit better. Not that I would recommend cranking torsion bars more than 1-1.5" though.

Hope this helps.

Aircraft, Cars, and Me

 

Way too much lift for 33's! So what are my next options? Two inch body lift? T-bar keys? A 2.5"-3" lift?

If it don't fit force it, and if all else fails get a bigger hammer!

 

6" lift with 33s.... i think its a pretty tolerable look. check it out: http://www.off-road.com/chevy/readers_rides/hidalgo/index.html

Shorts

 

If you don't want to spend the money on a "good" IFS lift, don't bother lifting it at all. Just fit some 285/75R16 (33x11.25R16), 255/85R16 (33x10R16), or 305/70R16 (33x12R16) tires to some stock 16x7 rims, and they will fit on the truck stock without any rubbing. The 2-3" lifts and body lifts are sketchy (I have the Rancho 2-3" lift, and it SUCKS BALLS!!!/wwwthreads_images/icons/mad.gif), and unless you are going to spend the money for a properly setup 4" or taller "full drop down" lift, don't waste your money. Buy some tires, have them put on the rims you have now, and save the money for the big lift or next truck you mentioned.

Aircraft, Cars, and Me

 

Shorts, it's funny you brought up hidalgo's truck. It was stolen not too long ago and he hasn't seen it since. BTW - I think 33's and 6" looks alright. Considering that you have plans for 35's in the future I'd advise on a 6" and try to live with the look for a while.

 

I liked that truck!!! What is wrong with the tires???? And I want to know what kind of wheels those are!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I think Ajm was referring to my truck. I have the new 4" Rancho kit. Originally I had 33" BFG ATs on 15x8 wheels. The place that installed the lift said that the torsion bars were set as low as I would want to go. By the way, the drop brackets for the upper a-arms drop them a full 6". The front differential brackets drop 4". Anyway, after a year I got tired of the look with the 33's and bought 35's which I should have done in the first place. I didn't touch the torsion bars and in daily driving I have no rubbing at all. Here's a pic with 33's.


97 K1500, 4" Rancho, 35" Wild Country AWs, custom dual exhaust

 

I think Ajm was referring to my truck. I have the new 4" Rancho kit. Originally I had 33" BFG ATs on 15x8 wheels. The place that installed the lift said that the torsion bars were set as low as I would want to go. By the way, the drop brackets for the upper a-arms drop them a full 6". The front differential brackets drop 4". Anyway, after a year I got tired of the look with the 33's and bought 35's which I should have done in the first place. I didn't touch the torsion bars and in daily driving I have no rubbing at all. Here's a pic with 33's.

97 K1500, 4" Rancho, 35" Wild Country AWs, custom dual exhaust

 

And here is a pic with the 35's.

97 K1500, 4" Rancho, 35" Wild Country AWs, custom dual exhaust

 

Rebel...that sux about his truck being stolen /wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gif

Shorts

 

Hidalgo's truck is sweet. But it looks different than Harmsie's. Should I maybe go with a true 4 inch lift? Maybe I'll decide against the 35's. Damn I can't decide. I have brand new 32/11.50/15 BFG AT KO's on AR 39 15/10's. And they rub at full turn and no compression. I've turned up the bars as far as I want to.

If it don't fit force it, and if all else fails get a bigger hammer!

 

If you need another pic of the Rancho 4-6 with 33's I can send you one later. I am at a borrowed comp. I have the 4-6" kit and Skyjacker 5" springs. They took the rear height and leveled the truck. The smaller tires give me more stuff, but I'll use 35's when they're dead. I love the function, but the reinforcements between front and rear crossmembers are thinwall tubing, and I bent one already. Replaced for $18.00 and 20 minutes time. If you stick with the Rancho, get their skidplate, it ties the frame and front crossmember together, and it's almost bulletproof.
You really should look at a solid axle conversion, the cost is almost the same, or so I hear. Too late for me! Have fun.

1996 Chevy 1/2T,ExtCab,Z71,Airaid (K&N),Jacobs ign ,Rancho6",Skyjacker springs,Hypertech Comp, DeeZee, Xenon, CenterLine,33"Goodyear MT/R, PIAA

 

dave, can you give a pic of the Rancho skid plate also. I've been looking at that. Does it bolt to the front or back of the front cross member (lower subframe?). I did forget to mention that I also have an add-a-leaf in the rear springs to make the truck sit level or just a little higher than the front. The Rancho kit only comes with 3" blocks for the rear and I was told by the installer that with the block the rear sits a little lower than the front.

97 K1500, 4" Rancho, 35" Wild Country AWs, custom dual exhaust

 

jwb,
if you plan on putting on 33's for the time being, watch out when getting 305 70R16. They may rub against the wells when turning. They are almost an inch wider than 285 75R16.

Jeff

01 Sierra z71, Gibson Headers, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster exhaust