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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I have a 83' CJ7 with an I-6. I have been doing research into what is out there as far as radiators go, and I was hoping to get some
feedback on what other people are using and how it cooling for them. What I am looking for is a top quality copper or aluminum
radiator that will keep my coolant temp. pegged right at 195 (my thermostat temp), no mater how hot it is, how slow I am driving, or
if I have the A/C on. I also want to avoid cleaning out my pocket, so I am trying to avoid Be Cool, and getting a custom radiator
made, even though this would be a solution. Some name brand companies make generic size radiators that are close to the 25"x
19" that I need. Any experiences with that?

 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
How hot is it running right now? Do you have a two core radiator if you do you could upgrade to a three core from a Jeep for about $200. Also if you can hook up a chevy style radiator you could use a Griffin radiator for about $160-$180 from Summit. I haven't upgraded to any of these yet because I don't mind my engine running at 220-270 degrees.

Tim Springer
1980 CJ7
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just had my radiator cored and resealed, I put in a new thermostat and housing with new hoses, and it runs perfect temp. I am wheeling this weekend and will let you know how it does, but sitting in rush hour traffic for an hour it was a constant temp no problems, and only cost me $80.00, for all of the above! Just a thought

 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You'll have to check, but I think a corvette radiator fits in a Yj, maybe it'll fit in a CJ. Otherwise, look into the dimesions of other sports car radiators, they cool fairly well for their size.

Nick Hagen
1995 Wrangler
33" Mud Tires and a four banger
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well,
Right now I am actually have a three core radiator. I don't know what sort of temperature it will run as I still have several months on
ground-up rebuild. The thing is that the engine will be making about 40 more hp which means more heat. That combind with A/C
now, a oil-to-water oil cooler (the cooler the water temp. the cooler the oil temp.), and me taking this vehicle out west makes me want
a better radiator. I am looking at the Griffin, Howe, and AFCO as my choices of common affordable radiators. All three have some
good ones to choose from two core aluminum for under $200. Griffin has a four core copper radiator that is 25-1/2"x19" for $161.95 in
the Summit book, that may be what I need.
Ethan

 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have a modified 258 (cam,carb,comp,header,etc) and I had my radiator rebuilt for $75 and I haven't managed to get it over 205 deg. even playing in the sand on a 105 deg. day! I don't have an oil cooler like you discribed but I do run an auto with an auxillary cooler. I also run a 180 deg. thermostat and the original fan and shroud with a new clutch on the fan. It usually runs about 180 to 195 now.
86 cj-7 258 auto

 

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Official Curmudgeon
Joined
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5,207 Posts
Spend the money on electric fan(s). This is the only way to meet your objective of going slow,
running the air conditioner and keeping the radiator temp down. I have a replacement 3 core Jeep
radiator cooling a 305 TPI and it hardly gets off the cold mark. Runs warner at 70 mph on the interstate
than sitting in a traffic jam. What does this is 2 electric fans taken from the engine donor Firebird. Also
add a catch tank if you don't already have one. I have not hooked up the air conditioning yet but the
condensor coil is there in front of the radiator.

 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A couple of guys in my 4x club have Griffins and they are really nice, cool like a dream. Don't have any experience with the others. Just my 2 cents

absolutjeep
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sounds like you could just use a good modine stock replacement unit. just make sure you get the hd model for that year of jeep. unless you have made serious power mods or swapped in a v8, there is no need to go outrageous on a racing radiator. just my $.02

dan

I do not intend to offend,I offend with my intent
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the advise all of you guys. Absolutjeep I am really interested in the Griffins the some of the guys in your 4x4 club run.
Do you by any chance know which ones they used and what how much trouble they have had putting them in?
Ethan


 

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2,062 Posts
Re: Radiators-TimCJ7??

Tim......220-270 ..........now I don't have my steam tables in front of me but ..........that's gotta be over 50lbs. of pressure......are you sure that your gauge is right? I've never heard of a cooling system handling that much pressure.

GeeAea
 

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808 Posts
Swap in a stock Chevy rad?

I met a guy in Raleigh NC that had the coolest Scrambler and a Tuxedo Park CJ (original owner). He showed me how he made two cuts to the inside of the front grill, rewelded the cut peices back in, then swapped in a stock Chevy radiator to handle the cooling needs of his V-8. Anybody else ever heard of this?
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: Swap in a stock Chevy rad?

I hate to do any cutting or trimming, but the CJ radiator mount has piles of room for a larger radiator if you trim the side mounts, and
move the mounting holes. I may check that out. After doing even more research on what is out there I found a lot of choices for a
radiator that is 26" wide and 19" tall (there is room to go even wider). These choices were everything from affordable aluminum, two pass, and four core copper. I think this is the way I will end up going as these are common radiators, and my jeep is not really stock anymore anyways. Another
reason is that I went to a radiator shop this last week, and the prices were crazy. To replace my worn out three core with a lesser
quality Modine #583 (when my radiator was new it was pretty good quality) it would be $200. When I asked about getting a better
cooling radiator the prices jumped to $450 and just kept on going on up. Now I am sure that all the the high priced radiators above
would more then do my job, but there has to be something in between those prices that will give me a little more cooling.
One thing I have to say about this total experience with getting a good quality radiator is that it has been hard to actually get any good
facts about what I could use. Even with my stacks of off road magazines they only talk about radiators in broad terms, and most of
the web sites I have found are really geared toward people who already know what they are looking for, or people who just want to
learn a little.
Thanks,
Ethan
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: Radiators-TimCJ7??

GeeAea yes the gauge is correct and the engine hates me for it. It is a Sh*t load of pressure. I have a Buick 231 which is suppose to be a pressureized system and supposedly doesn't mind running 210 to 220 normally. I have an over flow tank that is nearly empty when cold, but almost full when it reaches 270 on those hot days when crwling with it. I know it isn't good for the engine so I change the oil at less than 3000 miles depending on the driving (as little as 500 miles once) and radiator fluid changed every few months. I do this for safety precations.

Tim Springer
1980 CJ7
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: Radiators-TimCJ7??

Here are a few facts on the subject of pressure and temperature. Water boils a 212 degF...one pound of pressure increase over atmospheric 14.7 sea level adds three degrees of temperature. The 15 lb. radiator cap will add 45 degrees before boil over. If you are at sea level then you will have boilover at 257 degF. Radiator caps being what they are, ie. non-precsion, the possibility exists that you have say a 16 lb. cap in which case you have a 260 degF system and guages being what they are, ie., non-precsion, the possibility exists that you have say a guage that is ten degrees off (how many needle widths is ten degrees anyway?) and you could well have a 270 degF motor.
However
The whole thing is supposed to run at the thermostat level. That's what the fuel and emissions and horsepower engineers have agreed on and that is what will work the best for all of their parameters. The rest of the components are there simply as a safety valve. Heck, if it is all working correctly then you can run the whole thing without a pressure cap at all and it will work fine. Most of the world's internal combustion engines don't have a pressurized cooling system at all but run some auxillary tank system on a constant feed basis. I am not advocating this but mention it only to illustrate a point. Keep it balanced at the thermostat level and all will be well.
sln
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: Radiators-TimCJ7??

I never said that my sysytem didn't boil over. It normally doesn't boil over that often except for crawling. That is why the catch can is on there. It is amazing how much radiator fluid expands.

Tim Springer
1980 CJ7
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: Radiators-TimCJ7??

you forgot in your example that antifreeze does up the boiling point a bit too. as for the rad thing, the best $$ for the deal would be to get a four core from a chev truck in a wrecker and then have it rodded out at your local rad shop, these rads were designed to cool big block chevs in one tons while towing, it would have no problems with a jeep engine. if you want to know the dimensions I'll measure the one in my truck for you tommorow.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: Radiators-TimCJ7??

Mytzflick I am 100% sure that you are right that a chevy wrecker radiator could probably cool my engine. It could probably cool
two of my engines, but I think it might be too much overkill form my application. A co-worker of mine has something like you are
talking about in his chevy truck, and it is HUGE. Another thing is that the radiator hose necks are on the opposite sides for the
chevy. Most of the applications I have seen that are workable are for a ford. I am sure that the measurments of that radiator might
come in handy for anyone putting in a V-8 350.

Thanks to all you Vets out there.
Ethan
 
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