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Radiator repair ??

530 views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  **DONOTDELETE**  
#1 ·
On one side of my radiator, the bracket has come loose from it's attachment point on top. Is there something that I might be able to do to repair it or is this best left to the radiator gurus? If this is beyond my capabilities, will the radiator have to be removed for a pro to fix? Thanks...

All Good Medicine,
Crow

Creator, everything we do leaves a track. May our tracks be ones we would want you to see and others to follow......

 
#3 ·
crowhorse,
mine broke on the left side bracket a couple of years ago--i repaired it with marinetex--a two part marine repair compound. it's still holding fine. when i pulled my engine last time i cracked radiator at bottom of filler neck removing it--used marine tex on crack--stopped the leak in it's tracks-great stuff-just let it dry overnight
cueball

cueball
88 hd-top,1.3with weber, calmini cam,headers & 2" exhaust, jacobs ignition, 3" national spua , 4.16 tc gears, 88.5 5th gear,29x10.50 swamper tsl sx's
 
G
#4 ·
Three of four sides were loose on mine. Pulled radiator and the mounting brackets. Used propane tourch and acid core solder, solided as a rock now.

Had to use a clamp to hold the top and bottom of the mount to one side of the radiator. Heat till the mount flange and radiator suck up the solder and no more. Tilt the radiator so the mount flange is level so the solder doesn't run off.

'88 Suk, 1.3L, 2"exhaust,carb mod, 235/75 Buckshot mudders
 
#5 ·
I used plumbers epoxy on the wifes rigs rad, seems to hold up fine. If you solder you will need to clean both parts
of any rust or paint. scrub it down till shiny. then tin each side and then put it together and add heat and it should
flow together.

Glenn Loud
87' Zook Spoa, 31's, 4.16 tcase, Camo,Header,2"exhuast, Cam.
Locked both ends, 8klb winch, Snorkel -Wildweasel2
NE4WI- club
 
#6 ·
Thanks guys! I used Marine Tex. Mixed it up (2 parts), snuck it between the radiator and bracket, then clamped it together overnight. Seems to work just fine and is very solid. Thanks to everyone who chimed in!

All Good Medicine,
Crow

Creator, everything we do leaves a track. May our tracks be ones we would want you to see and others to follow......

 
#7 ·
i once bought a saab 900 turbo that had a cracked sump--the have a one piece aluminum sump/block-- someone had overtightened the drain plug--had a pretty bad drip-i drained oil used marinetex in crack-even in threaded plug area-reinstalled plug-let it dry overnight and didn't have a drop of oil leak for about 50000 miles--it's great stuff-almost as good as goop!!!
cueball

cueball
88 hd-top,1.3with weber, calmini cam,headers & 2" exhaust, jacobs ignition, 3" national spua , 4.16 tc gears, 88.5 5th gear,29x10.50 swamper tsl sx's
 
#9 ·
it's similar to jb weld but in my experience it's better. most marine stores & good hardware stores carry it. it works great on fiberglass, metal, some plastics. an infrared lamp will speed up set-up time but it needs 12-24 hrs to cure. once cured it can be sanded & drilled & tapped. i used it to secure my tappet block screws--smeared a little on top of the screws & it's still holding!yes it is a 2-part mix.
cueball


cueball
88 hd-top,1.3with weber, calmini cam,headers & 2" exhaust, jacobs ignition, 3" national spua , 4.16 tc gears, 88.5 5th gear,29x10.50 swamper tsl sx's
 
G
#10 ·
myself (nimph) and gotzookand xj89xj have used J>B>Weld and it holds like steel would ,the stuff is easy and very strong yuo can drill it and grind it too. good luck nimph

95 yj black. 4.0L .5.5 sup. lift 3 inch body lift 36x12.50 swampers, safri rackon top for my women.