Off Roading Forums banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I didn't quite get Chilton's directons on removing rear drive shaft at differential on an 82 CJ8, 5MT, 6 cyclinder(prelude to rear pinion seal replacement).

Please respond with steps to remove the driveshaft at the differential & special tools required. It looks like there are four bolts with 1/4", 12 point head, does that sound right?

Thanks in advance,
Michael
 

·
Official Curmudgeon
Joined
·
4,706 Posts
Not to criticize your abilities, but if you are having trouble removing the driveshaft at the rear, you really shouldn’t be messing with the seal.

If you have the Model 20 rear axle, you can cause a lot of trouble if you don’t get the pinion yoke tightened properly. There is a crush sleeve that sets the pinion/ring gear mesh. Get it wrong and you will be having your rear axle rebuilt $$$$$. Even if it is not the 20, you have to get considerable torque on the pinion nut to keep it from backing off and allowing the pinion to move.

Based on your question, I think that this is more than you can handle and might get expensive if you try it as a DIY project. But, in answer to your question, if it is the stock yoke with the stock u-joint straps, you will find that a ¼” 12 point wrench or socket fits the bolt heads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,504 Posts
Re: questions removng rear drive shaft at differen

Uh, just remove the bolts, slip the shaft forward, and drop it out.

If the bolts look like 12-point stars, they're male torx. The female versions are all over your Jeep unless they've been replaced in a previous life. You might have a problem finding a wrench to remove them. I think Sears has a Craftsman set, and Snap On and Matco tool trucks probably have them too. But first try getting them out with a regular 6-point or 12-point socket, or as a second-last resort, Vice Grips.

Your goal is to put them in a trash can and replace them with grade 5 bolts with a common head; a regular hex head if that will work, or a 6-point allen head. That's so you don't have to buy a rather expensive socket, or a very expensive complete set of them, and then carry one around everywhere the Jeep goes, just in case.

They were used extensively because they work very well with power tools during assembly. In other ways they're inferior to regular bolt heads, IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,432 Posts
Re: questions removing rear drive shaft at differe

One little tidbit. When the drive shaft is removed, do so as an assembly. Mark each half in relation to the other before removal. The drive shaft is balanced. If you take it apart, and slide it back together in another set of splines it is now unbalanced. This can introduce many vibrations and cause wear/tear on the drive line components.

I usually put matching scribe marks, or use spray paint to mark the position of the halves in relation to each other.
 

·
Official Curmudgeon
Joined
·
4,706 Posts
Re: questions removng rear drive shaft at differen

[ QUOTE ]
If the bolts look like 12-point stars, they're male torx.

[/ QUOTE ]

If they are the OEM. they are NOT male Torx, they ARE 1/4" 12-point.

A friend of mine, since high school in 1960, that ran an automotive supply/machine shop made the same claim so I took him one. He got out all of his sockets for male Torx and none of them fit.

You might also find 12 point bolt heads, to fit standard sockets, on after-market main and rod cap bolts and nuts for high performance engines. They spread out the forces as best as possible around the 12 points. In the case of the u-joint strap bolts, it let them use a much undersized head for clearance.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top