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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello every one im new here,let me tell you my problem,maybe some one can help,i bought a 1976 cj7 304 auto quadra trac,it was making a loud clunking noise when you drive it,so as thinking like men do well i tried to find out where it was,long story short,when i got half way up the big hill it quit pulling and then there was a new sound and the jeep was no longer going forward,but backwords,when i got to the bottom it wouldnt go either way and the front wheels wouldnt pull either,so i pulled the inspection plate off the back,and the pinion gear had 2 teeth broke off,thought that was my problem,but i also remembered that the front wheels wouldnt pull either,so we pulled the front drive loose and my buddy held the u joint coming from the front axle while i spun the wheels,the u joint didnt move but the wheels did,so is there a problem in the front axle also,might there be a problem in the transfer case,and last i bought a 79 wagoneer and was thinking of taking the axles and t case from it,does anyone know what i will have to do to make this work or if it will work at all,thank you all for your help on this
 

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Welcome aboard! It's a bummer that your new Jeep seems to be falling apart already, but don't worry; we'll get it fixed up.

As for the axels, they will for sure be wider than your CJ axels. How much depends on the year of your CJ and the model of the Waggie. (This is a good time to tell you to fill out your profile, so we know more about your Jeep and how you use it.) In '79 there were regular Waggoneers, and also Cherokees. The Cherokees were several inches wider. Someone will chime in soon with exact numbers.

Also, there were two different widths of CJs; the later years were several inches wider as a result of the roll-over scare of the early '80s. Again, someone will chime in with the year break. My brain is too feeble to try to remember that stuff.

Anyway, you can put the wider axels under the CJ by building new front spring mounts that hang on the outside of the frame rails instead of under them. That allows the differential to move a little bit to the right so that the tires stick out the same amount on both sides.

You can also narrow the axels back to the original CJ width, or anywhere in between. With the front it's not difficult at all with a few basic tools - an angle grinder, arc welder and a big hammer. The procedure has been documented here several times. The axel shafts can be shortened by Moser Engineering for about $100 the pair.

The back axel, probably an AMC model 20 (with a round cover) is somewhat trickier since the hubs can't be cut off and welded back onto shortened tubes, as the eyes are for a front axel. I'm working on a procedure and will post how it works when it's finished.

As for the transfer case, Waggies used the the QuadraTrac and Dana 20 transfer cases that the CJs did, so that shouldn't be much of a problem. But the Quadra Trac transfer case you have is actually pretty strong. It's weak link is the drive chain, which will stretch with mileage. Eventually it will get loose to the point that it will slip, with a distinct ratcheting sound. But it's cheap and easy to replace, so don't let that worry you.

Will is the resident expert on the Q-Trac cases. He'll be on the board Monday morning if not before, and tell you everything you want to know about them.

Again, welcome to the board. We're always glad to see an old CJ brought back to life.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well this is what ive found out,ive gathered all me friends together,sad group that we are,i asked questions about the 76 cj7 and this is the replys that i got,the spyder gears are bad in the rear end,this is true because ive taken it out already,so i know it to be a fact,then they told me that if the rear wheels will not turn the front ones will not either,now im not the brightest steak knife in the box,but that doesnt make much sense to me,so this is what was said,if the rear drive goes out the front will not turn something about it being a quadra trac,npow i explained to them what happen,i said i was trying to climb a hill and it quit pulling,id say that is where the spyder gear thing broke,and i figured that seeing it is a 4x4 that the front wheels should still pull,well that didnt happen,and they all agreed that it didnt pull beacuse the rear wheels werent moving,so is this correct or should we all be waiting on the short bus to come and just give up on the jeep altogether,and if the spyder gear was missing just 1 tooth will it not pull beacuse its kinda jumping when it gets to where its broke,im sorry for the dumb questions,ive just not got alot of smart friends and i dont want to spend more then i have to to fix the problem or i dont want to replace the spyder gears and the have to take the transfer case out and the front gears out,because if thats the case i can just put the axles from the 79 cherokee wagoneer in it while i got it all apart,sorry for the rant ,its late and all my know it all friends wont leave the garage and quit trying to take my jeep apart,thanks again for your help
 

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Uh.. Chris, I'd love to help you... but I get lost in your writting style. Some of us on this board have learning disabilities that prevent us from properly reading posts, such as yours.

Please start using proper sentence structure such as periods, spacing between sentences, captial letters for such pronouns as "I", etc..

It would make your posts much easier to read, and the easier they are to read, the better the information is given to the reader. That insures that you'll get an answer that's more pointed to what you're trying to say.
 

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???Ok
made loud noise. Went wheeling anyway. Now its REALLY broke. Do the front tires rotate? Do the back rotate?
First thing I would do is put it on jackstands and try to spen each of the tires. if all are locked up, disconnect the drive shafts. Tires wont spin but you can rotate the shafts (turning the transfercase) then issue probibly in you your diffrential or axil (sp). if that is the issue then remove your diff covers and inspect your gears. If that isnt your problem and the transfercase or tranny cannot be turned then time to replace or rebuild them.
 

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What your friends said makes sense. The QuadraTrac transfer case is a full-time device. As such it has a differential that will allow the front and rear driveshafts to rotate at different speeds. If the rear differential breaks, the rear drive shaft will turn freely, and the front won't turn at all. It's the same effect as with an open differential with one wheel spinning on ice and the other doing nothing.

Some (All?) QuadraTrac transfer cases have a lockup feature, which should allow you to drive on the front axel. Some also have a low-range. Will can tell you more about it when he chimes in.

As to putting the Waggie axels under your CJ, to use them full width will require outboarding the front spring mounts. I believe your CJ does not have the boxed frame rails; they're open "C" channels. If that's the case, I don't think that outboard spring mounts are a good idea, since the "C" form doesn't resist the resultant twisting forces very well.

The better news is that you can use the Waggie front if you shorten the left side tube only. The result will be an axel several inches wider than the CJ part, but not too wide for the stock spring mounts.

What transfer case does the donor Waggie have? Vehicles with the Q-trac transfer case have the rear differential offset way to the right. You can only use those axels with a Q-Trac case, unless the vehicle uses a very long rear driveshaft. And the reverse also applies; Back axels in vehicles with the D20 transfer case have centered differentials, and can't be used behind a Q-Trac case.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you So much for all your help. Ive got to put the spyder gears in the rear diff and put in some manual lockers. Im not sure I trust the automatic lock ins. But im still afraid that the loud klunking noise that i heard was coming from the transfer case? Ive got the donor out of the waggie,its the same one in the CJ7. But would it be easier to just put a chain in the transfer case or switch them both out? And does it matter how the vacuum lines run on the switch that controls the Q-trac ?

Again sorry for all the typing errors and what not. Im trying to re -educate my self. Thanks again
 

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Sorry, for a definite answer you'll have to wait for someone who knows more about the Q-Track cases than I. Will usually checks in weekday mornings.

However, I think the chain replacement is neither difficult nor expensive, and likely the only thing wrong with the T-case.

On the subject of lockers, the Detroit is considered to be extremely durable and quite a bit cheaper than the selectables - ARB, Electrac, Eaton E-locker and OX. For a Jeep that's primarily a trail machine, I'd save the money and go Detroit. But if you're going to install a locker, don't bother with the spider gears; they're not used with in a locking differential.

If you're talking about unlocking front hubs, you can't use them with the Q-Trac case; the front drive shaft will spin and the rear do nothing, just the opposite of your current problem. Unless you lock the center differential, but that negates the value of the full-time Q-Trac case.
 
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