[1674]

I keep tearing driveshafts apart. I've twisted two apart, had one break the tube apart (didnt even look twisted at all). Now my question is what is gonna be the stronger driveshaft, a large diameter tube, or a smaller one which would have a thicker side wall? I am running a cv setup, and the tube between the cv and the slip joing is only about 2 inches.

 

[Jim_Lou]

Depends on what your limiting factor is. If it's clearance with other components, make it as large OD as there is room for, and then as thick-walled as you can get.

If you're worried about weight, larger thin-wall is stronger pound for pound (and probably dollar for dollar)than smaller thick-wall, until the wall gets so thin that it's susceptible to impact damage.

FWIW, the driveshaft is a cheap, easy-to-replace fuse in the system. Better to break it than a hub, axel joint or differential.

Maybe you need a spacer under the skinny pedal.

 

[Tippy]

I take it that it is your rear drive shaft. I had a 3" diameter drive shaft made up for my Jeep. I haven't had any problem with it. If you look at big trucks (pickups all the way up to semi's) they run a large diameter drive shaft. Inland Truck Parts in Rapid can make one for you. Their shop in Scottsbulff made mine.

 

[1674]

yea, i'm having inland make me one as we speak. I had a 1.25 x .188, and now its gonna be 3 x .120. another question is why would you want the driveshaft its self to be a fuse rather than just a ujoint?

 

[Tippy]

I wouldn't want the drive shaft to be a fuese at all! That is a pretty expensive fuese!! WC has it right, make it all bomb proof, but if you have to - a $12 U-joint is still pretty cheap to replace

 

[Jim_Lou]

Yep. I just suffered a brain fart.

If something's going to blow it ought to be the joint. It could wreck the yoke, but if it doesn't you're ahead.