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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, i'm not too sharp about every mechanical thing...at all. my 93 chevy 2 wheel drive single cab 305 makes this Godaweful poping/clicking sound whenever i accelerate, especially when hauling a 4-wheeler...its embarrassing me, but it could be worse, i could be drivin a phord. got 2 1/2 inch pipes off of 2- 40 series flows and 24"x 3 1/2" tips, sounds sweeeeet. thanks for your input on that one.thinkin the problem w/ the 93 might be a universal..help

I liKe mUd.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I can't really help you with that one, except to say I was puzzled by that one myself at one time. I used to work for a company driving a E350 with no overdrive. After driving it at 80mph for about 2min it popped something and started to do the loud ticking thing, Im thinking it might be the manifold gasket, but I never figured it out. The funny thing is I never noticed a power loss.

Will work for mods
Current mods--> 31x10.5x15 ProComp MT, 15x8 AR767 rims, K&N, MSD Ignition Coil.
 

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Need a little more info to really help you. Does it sound like it could be an exhaust leak. Lots of time when you have exhaust work done the place may have done a really sorry job. Their welds could have not been so great and you get a leak. Does the sound get louder and faster as you accelerate? If it sounds more metal like then check into your U-joints.

Laters, Ryan

 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok, the 93 doesn't have exhaust, my 96 Z does...sorry for the confusion. but the 93 will just pop pop pop, then when i accelerate it gets faster, it isn't the muffler, very metallic sound to it, when i let off the accelerator, it doesn't click (sometimes), now maybe we can figur it out

I liKe mUd.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If it kind of a tapping metallic sound that reminds you a little of a card in bicycle spokes, it is surely an exhaust leak, probably in the manifold. Popping isn't how I would describe it. Open the hood and try to find the source of the noise. If there isn't a noise, it may be driveline related. You should be able to hear an exhaust leak withough needing to load the motor.


Nich Kenny
'89 K1500 350/700r4
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
everybody sounds right. one meelion to one its an exhaust leak(spudder spudder). and most likely it has to do with the manifold gasket.

everything's bigger in TEXAS!
 

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Hey Red_Z does it still make the noise when it is just idleing? Will it make the noise if you have it in park but give it a little gas? If it does not then it is problably not an exhaust leak and it is in the driveline.

 

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93 eh? sounds like time for new U-joints anyways. if that doesn;t fix it at least you'll have peace of mind....always a good thing. my guess for the fix though would eb the manifold gasket.
---Peacock

If it hasn't broken, let your girlfriend drive it...it'll break real quick
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok, no sound in park, no sound in revvin it, it is very metallic, sound like it is in the rear, i am purty darn sure its not no leak in exhaust. about the u joints, how much money is it and is it hard? i'm gonna try to do it myself, but pops will probably have to help...thanks everyone

I liKe mUd.
 

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well being around trucks now for quite a few years I am almost 100% sure its you muffler bearings that are going. There a cheap fix and won't give you problems once there fixed. The OEM ones suck!!!! I would recomend ones from Kalecoauto....here is there url http://www.kalecoauto.com/
They have some top of the line muffler bearings there for a reasonable price. Check them out!!!

Good luck/wwwthreads_images/icons/wink.gif/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif

Ryan

93 GMC Yukon
Chevy SuperStock 4x4 Truck Puller
Great Lakes Truck & Tractor Pulling Association
http://www.greatlakespull.com
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
RyanB, I hecked out the site you put on there on a different post, what the h_ _l kind of web site is that, It gets me mad just looking at it, all though ricers might like it and actually buy stuff from there.

Will work for mods
Current mods--> 31x10.5x15 ProComp MT, 15x8 AR767 rims, K&N, MSD Ignition Coil.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
U-Joints are anywhere from $7 -$30 depending on how good of ones you buy.Most everybody I know runs Spicer's at about $25 a pop.Very easy to replace,just take your time and don't drop a bearing.When you get the old joint out take the caps off of the new one and load the caps with grease to keep the needle bearings in place.Take your time putting them back together, when done they should move freely with NO resistance.

www.Kansasfourwheeling.8m.com
 

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One time I had a rock get cougth between the iner side of the wheel and the hub, with my stock steel wheels. they are so close to the hub that if just the right size rock somehow gets in there, it will stay in there untill the wheel is taken of. But you may have dif wheels where the backspacing sticks them out farther, so nothing can get trapped

It never fails, when Im turning wrenches on my truck and something can go wrong, it usaully does
 
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