[741]

Ok, I pulled the door panel apart on my '88XJ. I've tested the circuit up to the motor. The motor is getting power.
Are there only three rivets holding the motor in place or do I have to remove all seven of them? I want to pull the motor out to see if it will operate while seperated from the regulator. If I remove just the motor, will the window assembly just fall into the door? Anybody know how much $ you can replace the motors for?



Trail bound...

 

[Chris_MJ]

I'm guessing a junkyard would give one up for about $15-25. Can't help you on the rest. My hand-cranks work all the time.

If I didn't have a Jeep, I wouldn't have a life.

'88 MJ SporTruck
Rebuilt 2.5L: 40 over rings, 10 on crank, 10 on bearings
nearing 400K

 

[741]

I'm seriously considering changing mine over to hand cranks. We'll see, I've got time to mess with them.
Thanks



Trail bound...

 

[421]

hey,

you have to take all 7 rivets out to get the motor out. Hoever to just test the motor with out the regulator you DO NOT need to take the motor out. All i did to test my fiance's was leave the motor plugged into its plug, ya, and then pull the controls out of the door. What you need to do on the controls is find the ground wire. I belive that it is the only black one on there. For the window motor in question you will have 2 wires that are attacked to the switch. You need to run jumper from your battery to amintain the 12v you need. Then take for 14ga wire and attach it to the jumper cables. All you need to do to test hte window is attach the black lead to the black wire on the window control box. Then take the red (hot) wire and touch it to one of hte 2 wires that control the window in question. If it goes up and down that way the motor should be fine. It's easy to tell which two wires control which window. The color of the wires at the motor plug is the same color on the control box. For the driver front door the colors are yellow and blue. hope tis helps man.

Todd

88' XJ
3" rusty's
1.75" Shackles
2" RE spacers.
Rusty LCA's.
RE adj trackbar

 

[718]

My 89 four door has PW. The right rear goes down about 1". Also, my right front is VERY SLOW and doesn't go down all the way, about 4" from bottom, and my driver's window goes all the way, but keeps clicking when all the way down. Any ideas? I heard someone had a stick caught in the window, will check the right rear one for an object caught.

Kevin

'89 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 four door, street glow shifter knob, 215/70R15 Mastercrafts.

 

[741]

Thanks,
I checked the voltage going to the motor. It is getting 11.7 V. I'm thinking I've got to pull the entire window apart and replace the motor. I just don't have a garage and storms are frequent. Maybe I should find a newer motor first.

Trail bound...

 

[718]

Don't replace it yet! I just did this mod/fix this morning on my right rear (goes all the way down now)! In the bottom of the door is a hose that moves a bit when you try going up or down. Pull the end of the hose out of the door, try to pull the whole hose off of the "motor" that it's near. Inside the hose is a cable that pulls or pushes the window up/down a track. If you can't pull the hose off the motor and cable, the cable has rusted to the end of the hose. Clip about 2" off the end of the hose/cable and then try it. I ended up clipping about 3.5-4" off, but it was pretty rusted. Once the cable is freed, it should work.

Kevin

'89 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 four door, street glow shifter knob, 215/70R15 Mastercrafts.

 

[741]

Thanks, I decided late last night to get a temporary tarp to cover the Jeep while I have the window dismantled (storms tonight), nothing stops Jeep building. I hope that's whats wrong with mine. I'll let you know.

Trail bound...

 

[130]

What I did when my window (manual) quit working for a bit, was cut a piece of carboard out to fit into the hole. You could cover it with plastic too if your anal like that, or plan to leave it that way for more than a day or two....

BTW: I went to a friend that runs a body shop and he told me that the problem is common to older Chrysler vehichles. I believe the metal cable is called the "regulator" or something. Anyhow my window would come undone after going too far down, so we put a hose-clamp on the metal guide rail that the window hits to prevent it from going to far now. The window sticks up maybe 2" when rolled down now, buts its on the passenger side so what do I care?

When you take the door panel apart (I was pleasantly surprised how easily it was to do...) you might have a hard time figuring out how to get the handle/lock assembly off. The linkages that these control are held to them by little plastic clip-on deals. You must pull (rotate) these inwards to unclip them so you can remove the assembly. Its a pain to do but doesn't take overly long.

 

[Chris_MJ]

Try to drain your doors. Rusting from inside out is evil. 'Course, I'm in WI, where that happens no matter what you do.

If I didn't have a Jeep, I wouldn't have a life.

'88 MJ SporTruck
Rebuilt 2.5L: 40 over rings, 10 on crank, 10 on bearings
nearing 400K