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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read allot on this site about POR-15 for undercoating. Is this the best out there for the price? and what does it do that Hammerite doesn’t? Where can I buy this (i.e. Hammerite is only sold at True Value)? I want to paint my whole Jeep in the spring/summer. I'm going to pull it apart and check the frame for rust and paint the pieces separate. The bottom first with rust preventer, then the top with coats of primer/paint/clear.

'83 CJ7 258 i6 31x10.5 3in. lift?
 

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i used to use a lot of POR-15 in the military when i was doing corrosion control... it is supposed to bond with rust and become a paintable surface..... well... i wasn't that impressed..the rust bubbled through anyway after a few months...if you find a cheaper alternative(like paint) go for it

 

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I used POR15 to cover the frame of my CJ5 when I rebuilt it last year. I'm very pleased with the results, but its all in the preparation. Get rid of the rust before you paint(grinder), then use a chemical neutralizer like "Jasco prep and primer" or something similar, then use the POR15. Por15 gets harder from the moisture in the air and takes a few weeks to cure completely. After that you'll need to apply a finish coat of paint to seal the por15 from UV rays. Its quite a bit of work but the results are will worth it. Its good to spend the time and do it right the frist time.

Wayne in Hawaii
"PYRO II" '77CJ5
(New Project) '90XJ Sport
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have used POR-15 on my ground up rebuild on every piece of metal I took apart, and I am planing to use it when I strip down my
body and repaint. I will use POR-15 on the entire body, and use there tie-coat so I can use auto paint on top. The thing about
POR-15 though is that is a pain in the ass to do the preperation right. To really get a good bond you have strip all the old paint off,
remove all the rust flakes, and then degrease it totaly. To strip parts down I use either POR strip and a wire wheel brush. I then
use muriatic acid (pool acid) to remove any deep rust. At this point I degrease the parts with either their degreaser or acytone/MEK.
From this point on do not even think of touching the part with your had as you will leave oils on the part that will effect bonding.
Buy a box of powder free disposable latex gloves to use. I then let the part soak in their Metal-Ready for at least 15 min. This uses
a weak acid to etch the metal and leaves a coating that will prevent short term rust development. After rinsing the part with plain
water, I let it totaly dry. Then you are ready to use POR-15.
Whenever I follow these steps I have never had trouble.
One other hint: When you remove some POR-15 from its can, use at least two layers of plasitc wrap to seal the can up. One under
the lid and one over top. Also use some rubber bands to improve the seal even more.
Good Luck,
Ethan

 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info. Where can I buy these POR products? And can I buy paint for the rest of the jeep there? Like everything else I've done with this jeep, I'm completely out of my league and learning as I go. What kind of finish paint do you guy like? Do they sell metalic white?
Thanks for the help, Jeff

'83 CJ7 258 i6 31x10.5 3in. lift?
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I guess I forgot that you asked that in your question. The only place you can get POR-15 is from RestoMotive Laboratories
http://www.por-15.com/
Actually, I think 4wdh carries some of their products, but I would go to the source. They have a little better price, you have access
to their entire product line, and they have great tech help.
Good Luck,
Ethan
 
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