NEWS PARTS JEEP & 4x4 ATV & UTV

Play in strap type U-Joints

13311 Views 11 Replies 5 Participants Last post by willie.justis.lee, 7 mo ago

LooseNut

Discussion Starter · Nov 27, 1999

http://dosxxs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_images/icons/frown.gifI've been investigating a driveline vibration in my ' 84 CJ7. The U-joints are the strap type instead of the U-bolt type. I found that the rear U-joint is able to move from side to side slightly between the little nubs in the yoke that help hold it in. The caps actually slide back and forth about 1/8" under the straps. What's the deal here? Are the straps worn and not holding the caps in place? Is the yoke worn allowing some movement? I'm pretty sure this is the cause of the vibration. The U-joints seem to be in good condition. No slop inside them and they are well greased. Can I bend the straps a little so they clamp the cups in place, or do I need new straps and/or a new yoke?

Loose nut behind the wheel
Another right-wing conservative.....
Born and raised in Jeep-Town

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CJ7Taz

· #2 · Nov 27, 1999

I'd say yo have the wrong u-joints in it. They should fit snugly between the locating tabs on the yoke
and should not rely on the strap to hold them in position. Could be the wrong yoke if the u-joint fits the
driveshaft properly. I can't imagine the u-joint wearing bad enough to allow 1/8" slop side to side. I'd
have to say, that u-joint does not fit that yoke.

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LooseNut

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 27, 1999

According to 4WD Hardware's catalog, all Jeeps take the same U-joint. Mine seems to fit the driveshaft, so could my yoke be worn? Why don't the straps hold the caps in so they don't move?

Loose nut behind the wheel
Another right-wing conservative.....
Born and raised in Jeep-Town

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CJ7Taz

· #4 · Nov 27, 1999

Going by mine, the tabs would almost completely gone to allow 1/8" of movement, but I guess the yoke
could be warn that bad. The strap can't exert enough clamping force on the cap to hold it in place side
to side, if it did, it would crush it. If you have to change the yoke, I'd go with a u-bolt type rather than the
strap type and don't overtighten the yoke nut. The nut sets the preload on the pinion and if you
overtighten it you can also crush the sleeve.

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LooseNut

Discussion Starter · #5 · Nov 27, 1999

Will the u-bolt type yoke fit? How tight do you tighten the yoke nut? Is there a torque spec on it?

Loose nut behind the wheel
Another right-wing conservative.....
Born and raised in Jeep-Town

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CJ7Taz

· #6 · Nov 27, 1999

There is a u-bolt type that will fit. As far as the nut, I don't know what torque to use.

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LooseNut

Discussion Starter · #7 · Nov 27, 1999

I guess tomorrow I'll go out and crawl under the ol' '80 parts donor and see if I can get the driveshaft out of it to compare to mine. I'll see how my driveshaft fits in that yoke to see if it's any different.

Loose nut behind the wheel
Another right-wing conservative.....
Born and raised in Jeep-Town

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· #8 · Nov 28, 1999

FWIW, Jeep did use different u-joints over the years. I found this out the hard way when the local jeep dealer sold me the wrong one. It turns out that 1993 (or 1992?) was a transition year and the joints had diffenent widths. So I don't know what it would be for a CJ, but if I can found out, I'll let you know.

-Brian
93 YJ, 4.0L, Tuffy'ized interior

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059

· #9 · Nov 28, 1999

Loosenut,
Do you think this might help your situation? You can upgrade the yoke to the U-bolt type.

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CJDave

· #10 · Nov 28, 1999

/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif Change to the other yolk. Our '79 CJ7 has the U-bolt type. If you DO change it, BEFORE you take it off, pull the brakes off to remove any drag, and measure the rotational torque required to turn the differential and bare axles, On re-assembly, tighten the yolk nut such that you ADD FIVE INCH POUNDS of rotational torque on re-assembly./wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif

CJDave

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· #11 · Nov 28, 1999

Yup, when I had my new driveshaft built, they built it for what most Jeeps use, but it turned out my u-joint was bigger. Had to get a crossover joint that mates the two different sizes.

This was on a '94 YJ, so I doubt the CJ mentioned is the same.

Marc
Contagious Racing
ICQ: 20889115

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willie.justis.lee

· #12 · 7 mo ago

LooseNut said:
I guess tomorrow I'll go out and crawl under the ol' '80 parts donor and see if I can get the driveshaft out of it to compare to mine. I'll see how my driveshaft fits in that yoke to see if it's any different. Loose nut behind the wheel Another right-wing conservative..... Born and raised in Jeep-Town

Wow, this seems to be an old thread. I was looking for something else and saw this. The u-joints that every one on here is wondering about or referring to is called a bastard joint. The caps are just a fuzz bigger on some yj models. Simplest thing to do is buy a wheel side u-joint and another u-joint 1-6301DL. Your wheel/axle u-joints will have the same cap size problem. We all have to change those eventually anyways. Pull 2 caps off the u-joint from the part number I listed and put them on your driveshaft u-joint that sits in the yoke. They will be flush on the tabs. They are made to go in the axle yoke as well so u can use the other 2 caps to put on your new wheel/axle u-joint. This is the most simple way and you don't end up wasting any money. If anyone doesn't understand then just ask and I will explain it better

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