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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, i realized how unsafe my steering has become. I did what was reccomended and checked it out, and there slop in a few locations. The steering arm to the tie rod, the other fake steering arm (idler?) to tie rod, and each end of the tie rod to the smaller arms that go to wheels (sorry about terminology, isn't SFA so much simpler?). Anyways, can these bushing deals be replaced easily? Do you need a press? I want ot replace everythign but the steering box and see if it solves enough of the problem.

How hard would those bushing and stuff be to replace? Tools involved? Thanks!

 

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well i hate to break the news to you, but the pitman and idler arms are not directly connected to the tie rods. the centerlink is a solid piece connecting both the tie rods together to the pitman and idler arms. in any case, you got slop.

the tie rods are the things that connect the knuckles to the center link. its a 2 piece link.

the centerlink is a solid round bar that sits horizontal; oiit connects the pitman and idler arm, as well as to the tie rods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, now i got the terminology straight. There's slop between teh pitman/idler arms and the center link, and i think between the center link and the tie rods.
 

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your slop is probalby about like mine which is in the pitman and idler. i need to replace both. they are both on my repair list, seems like once i get one thing fixed something else breaks
. When you replace them get Moog parts they seem to be the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So you just have to replace both those arms? How hard is that to do? I'm guessin you need a puller....

Is it just on the sfa trucks, or is it a Pain in the ass to remove the pitman arm on these trucks too?
 

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Yeah... its still a pain in the @$$ to change the pitman arms on the 88 and newer trucks...

You need a two jaw gear puller. First take the gearbox bolts loose. Separate the pitman arm from the relay rod. Take the intermediate shaft off at the box. This can be compressed up and out of the way. Pull the box bolts out and heave it up into the engine compartment. Now you can pull the arm off with your puller. I have gotten this procedure down to an art, and it takes about twenty minutes to get it all apart and the new arm on. I personally have not found a better way to do this job than that. Good luck to ya man!
 

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You know shorts, I love your posts. I love seeing a woman that knows her sh** about trucks and cars! I wish my wife would catch on and learn a bit herself, but she sells candles and has no interest in my lifestyle... oh well. When I need my fix, I just pop on here!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, more time/tools than i have here at school, anyone in the Sacramento Ca area wanna do it for me?


THanks!
 

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Do you live in Sacramento now? Going to CSUS? Well I am here and I have done it before. Actually the first time I did it was at the Napa in Moab. Maybe if you were here I could help you out.
Michael
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey, im actually a freshman at UC davis. I'll send u a pm when i can find the money for parts and a few 6 packs
 
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I had to do my friends pitman arm and idler arm last week, and we didnt read the book till after about the puller for the pitman arm so we were able to take it off by grinding a little bit of a 1 5/16 wrench and using it like a pickle fork, once we got it off we ended up having to cut the open end off the wrench(cuz i didnt have a big enough breaker bar)to tighten it. It was a b**ch but it worked. Next weekend we have to do mine. maybe ill try pulling the gear box.
 
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