[Guest]

Well, I rebuilt the rear brakes (shoes, turned drums, honed/rebuilt cylinders, new springs, etc.) and I replaced the two rear parking brake cables that had rusted so solid that neither Mopar rust penetrant nor PB Blaster would touch 'em. So now I have 4 working brakes (a first for this jeep) and a working parking brake, except for one little thing. When the brake is engaged, it holds for a few seconds, and then releases. Is there any adjustment or modification that I can do to the foot-control mechanism? The rest of the system is adjusted perfectly. It is just that the foot control mechanism won't hold tension. If it is trashed, is there a cheap way to replace/rebuild it?
Deano

 

[Guest]

While we're on the subject of parking brakes this involves the brake light. does anyone know if there is a spring or something that belongs on the wire/bar to turn the light off. It comes on when set but to get the light off I have to reach underneath and pull the conector down. If you get under there its pretty easy to see, I just need someone to look at one that's working so I know how it is setup. Or maybe someone knows of an exploded view?
-MarkyMark

80 CJ-7 Laredo 304v8 TF999 3.73's BFG M/T's

 

[TOM85CJ7]

I have noticed the same thing on my CJ. The parking brake holds and then releases on its own. It may hold for a day or only a few minutes. I discovered this problem when I found my Jeep resting on the tire carrier of my buddy's Jeep that was parked 5 feet in front of mine. I think it may have to do with too much tension on the adjusting cable or a problem with the pedal. I haven't really tried to fix it yet.

1985 CJ7 4.2L, T-176, Dana 300, 2.5" lift, 32"BFG MT, Durabak On-Board Air

 

[040]

The pedal has a ratchet assembly on it that hols it in place and sometimes this wears out or just needs to be adjusted. I have a couple of extras if you find that you need one. As far as the switch, it's a very simple spring-loaded 1-wire setup like the pin switches used for alarm systems...sometimes this assembly gets corroded and/or the pin gets bent...pretty easy bench fix if you have a wire wheel.

 

[Guest]

Like Jeepskate said, it is a ratchet mechanism. Mine was doing the same thing, I hosed it down with WD40 and now it works fine.
The mechanism was just gummed up, and WD is a solvent and a lubricant. I would try this first, it's a lot easier and cheaper than
the alternative.

Brad (from the 4 Wheeling center of the universe, 4 corners USA)

 

[102]

You got good replies already.
The insulated pin-on-a-spring switch grounds the circut when the e-brake is pushed down. Clean and/or straighten as Jeepskake suggests.
Also, work the cable using cable lube or WD-30 so it slides easily.
A lot of rust builds up inbetween the sliding plates of the e-brake assembly.
Plus the permanent riveted pivot loosen up causing side play.
I sand blasted my assembly, then took a small sledge hammer and whacked the big rivet to tighten up the petal arm plate. Then I painted it and lubed the pivots and moving parts, and cleaned up the switch, making sure the assembly was grounded so the light would ground well.
My e-brake works like it new right off the factory floor now.
It returns with a "whomp" as soon as I pull the release bar.

JAF