In reply to:

If I did go 8.8 I'd put disc brakes on it and ditch the Clips, An no I wouldn't spend the $150-$200/ side for C-clip eliminators before anyone suggests them.

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Please explain this to us. If you want the disk to be the axle retainer, it won't work.

 

I may be jumping ahead in my research....

From what I undersatnd the purpose of the C-clip is to hold the axle in... From what I've heard, if you put Disc brakes on it will keep the axle from walking out if you were to bust the axle, thus being able to loose the C-clip. Is that wrong?

 

yea brent thats wrong....man you need to learn to search

....the disk brakes will "help" keep the axle from walking out at a VERY low speed.....but the axle will eventally walk out on you......this is just what i have read on the net, so thats why im going D44, no more damn

c-clips....and 60" wms to wms is the same width as my rig

later
john

 

the correct axle for any cj that sees the trail is a 14 bolt from a cab&chassis truck.
stop thinking about anything else...this is correct... my way is the right way...
just kidding... but..er... you really could have a 14 bolt in the jeep for LESS money than the 8.8... and you need an 8 lug axle in the front anyway...

 

I'm looking at mine and I can't see how it would walk out...that whole caliper thing and all...The caliper is bolted to the axle tube, the outer brake pad and caliper would keep it from riding out...am I missing something?

Now with drums, I think it would do the same thing Johns D35 did.

 

Brent, look at a set of narrow track waggy axles before you do anything. I'm not saying its right for you, but it may be cheaper than you think and it will get you a 44 front.

Or, save yourself some time and money and go straight to the 60 and 14 bolt. You'll be there sooner or later anyway.

 

in response to the axles walking out ...lets think about this our jeep weighs in the neighborhood of lets say 2800 or so pounds (lots more when loaded with gear) while making a turn the amount of side load placed on the brake components would be extreme more than enough to snap the caliper bolts and seriously ruin your day in a hurray not to mention the possible risk to life and limb

 

Calipers will hold the axle in just fine... I know H8Monday had broke a axle in his old 8.8 with discs and drove it out. I have seen 12 bolt axles with disc brakes and 42" tires make it out of the woods with a broke axle shaft just fine. If you really think about it the caliper and caliper bracket is a heck of a lot beefier than a c-clip anyways.... If your going to use a c-clip axle definately only use one with disc brakes that way you don't have to fix it where it sits...

8.8 shafts are really really big too (I think around 1.45")... Not the easiest things in the world to break.

 

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(I think around 1.45")...

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1.31 comes to mind.

The c-clip fits in a recess in the side gear. The side gear is splined to the axle shaft. The side gear, axle shaft and c-clip move as one unit. If you rely on the brake caliper to hold the axle in position, it would be almost the same as driving around with the brake engaged. There will be a LOT of friction. Do not do it. Period. Either use the c-clip or use a c-clip elimination kit but do not use the brake calipers.

 

http://www.auburn.edu/~brewibm/Ford88.html

Will who gives a crap if you generate a lot of friction and maybe wear out a set of pads.... Heck of a lot better option in my opinion than replacing an axle shaft on a trail somewhere. Oh and like I said, I have witnesses a c-clip axle with disc brakes and 42"s drive out of the woods with no problem on a broken shaft. It doesn't act like a stuck caliper at all there is not much force required to hold that axle in. What exactly are you basing your recommendation on?

And no I didn't say drive to work on it but most people won't be doing 50 on the trail to get out on a broken shaft.

 

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Will who gives a crap if you generate a lot of friction and maybe wear out a set of pads....

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You need to reread my post. I wasn't talking about friction and wearing out pades if the axle broke, I was talking about eliminating the c-clip all together and JUST using the caliper to retain the axle for ALL driving ALL the time.

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And no I didn't say drive to work on it but most people won't be doing 50 on the trail to get out on a broken shaft.

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That is exactly what he is WANTING to do. It is a VERY BAD idea.

 

Ya, Will read my post correctly, I was thinking you could eliminate the C-clips ALL TOGETHER be adding Disc brakes... but the more I thikn about it, and the more I read the replies, the less I like the thought of doing so. Think about it this way, Ford Explorer with 8.8 and Disc brakes cme from the factory with a C-clip. Don't you think that if a Manufacturer could eliminate on piece and save money they would? there is a reason for it in there. thus this thread helped me make a decision on an 8.8 SCREW C-Clipped Axles!

no matter how big the axle.

Thanks all, this is exactly the stuff I wanted to hear. To bad cause i could've picked that 8.8 up REAL CHEAP! somewhere in the range of less than a $100

 

Since you already got the info you wanted - this is kinda after the fact. But just to drive home a point to those still unclear.
This is preaching to the choir for the rest of you so just ignore me.

It is not the C- Clip that makes the axle weak. It just holds the axle from walking out. Eliminating the c-clip in and of itself really doesn't gain you anything.
With Non- c-clip axles the axle is retained by the outer bearing and a retainer plate. if the axle should break (usually at the stub end) the axle is still held in by the bearing and plate. With a c-clip axle if it breaks at the stub there isn't anything to hold the axle in.
Where is gets confusing with the disc brakes is they they will HELP hold the axle in if it breaks.
But the brakes were not designed to retain the axle on a full time basis and should NOT be used this way.

FWIW, the axles on an 8.8 are so much beefier than the 35 that it is like apples and oranges. Also breaking a stub and getting it stuck in the carrier is not gonna be any fun to get it out whether you have c-clips or not.

PS: I think I know the axle you have in mind. And you are right. I am pretty sure the guy would just about give it to you. Just not sure he would be doing you any favors.

 

And he speaks..

Actually Bill, since the first time I worked on John's D35 I never liked the idea that you had to pull the diff cover to pull the axles. always seemed like a PIA to me. That's the first thing I never liked about C-clip axles.... Then like with many thing that first time you have to deal with something and it goes wrong, you don't want to deal it it again.

Maybe we'll do some talking at the shop when you get feeling better and want to get back on the Beasts' SOA.

 

Brent I understand what you were getting at now with the removing the c-clips completely... And like Will said that would be a bad situation... The 8.8 is not a bad axle though and IMHO is worth considering if you don't want to go 1 ton full width right now... If you break a dana 44 or 9 inch or other bearing retained axle shaft (or a full floater for that matter) you are still most likely looking at pulling the diff cover to replace the shaft. You probably won't be able to fish the broke end out without pulling the cover and pushing it out from inside the carrier. On a c-clip axle it can be more of a pain to get out but as I just installed a lock rite in a dana 35c it is not that bad once you get the hang of it. No it is not something I want to do on the side of the trail.... I think the general thought is that a 8.8 is a bit stronger than a 44 and a bit weaker than a semi float 60. I am torn right now between a full width ff60 and a 8.8....

There is a guy on the southern Jeep site with a 59" dana 44 5 on 5.5 for either $100 or $150 if that is the route you want to take. I have a local junkyard that I can get disc brake 8.8's from for $265. I figure with the cost of upgrading a drum axle to disc and the fact you get a good emergency brake it is worth it...

 

Then there was the CJ that blew an axle last weekend going down(?) Upper2... just inside the bearing and it didn't have anything to hold it in

We passed it on the way out with a log strapped along side ala D35... had us stumped until LoMod/Bill told us what happened. I guess you just can't get away from it