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Hello all, I've been away for a while I have a new kid, a majorly remodeled house and a new job - so it's not like I haven't been busy. Here's the question, I am re-visiting a project thats been sitting for at least 5 years and I'm looking for suggestions on re-starting the motor. Its a re-built 360 chrysler that had about 1 hour break-in time before it was parked. I will pre-oil it with a dummy shaft down the distributor hole Im just looking for any additional suggestion on re-firing this motor and eliminating potential problems. I also re-built the tranny and Its been sitting too. Any hints for putting that back in service after sitting so long.

Thanks all
7T8CJ7
Formerly jay2jeeps

Guns don't kill people, troubled loners do
 

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I would Change the trany and motor oil. Then Turn it over once. (not starting it) Remove the Spark PLugs and spray some penatrating oil in each cylinder. Allow to sit for about 5 min or so. Put back spark plugs, (you may want to buy new ones..) fire it up. Make sure all the intake is clean and not full of crud.

-Change your gas-

Sorry, my YJ is a 90, not an 87.

 

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Motors don't go bad sitting.
Just lube the front and rear bearings and plug it in.
Is 360 the horsepower rating, running voltage or watts rating?

If you have an internal combustion ENGINE, then you may have a few more things to do.

Warrior almost had it right...
If you use anything but fresh engine oil in the cylinder, do that first, then change the oil, you don't want solvents like penetrating oil in the fresh engine oil.

I would...

1. Use a little light machine oil in the cylinders (like 3in1 oil), not penetrating oil. Solvents washing down the cylinder walls is the last thing you need right now.

2. Use fresh fuel, and change the fuel in the tank. If you can get access to the float bowl vent on the carb, you may want to fill the float bowl with fresh fuel via a squirt bottle.

3. Change all of the lubricants, and pre-oil the crap out of it.

4. and inspect the cylinders for surface rust.
(a gasket set and cleanup hone is cheaper than a new engine if the cylinders are rusty)
You can check the ignition system when the distributor is out of the engine.

Testing the ignition system before you launch!
a. Hook up your wiring harness to the loose distributor (don't forget to ground the distributor housing),
b. Put a test plug on the coil wire instead of running it to the distributor, and make sure the body of the plug is grounded.
(you don't need the distributor cap or plug wires this way)
c. Turn the key to 'RUN', and spin the distributor shaft.
If the test plug fires with a rich blue spark, you are in business!

5. Change plugs, points (if it's got them), find TDC and drop the distributor in ready to fire #1, and check the firing order.
Have someone standing by a timing light so they can adjust the timing when the engine is cranking.

6. Make sure you start with a fresh, fully charged battery. You don't want this engine cranking slow or not having enough system voltage to get the ignition to work...

Your cam shaft is of particular concern...
You didn't have it broke in when you parked the engine, and you may have 'Issues' with that when you start running the engine again.
Keep close eye on the lift (via dial indicator on the rocker arms) in the first 2,000 miles or so. You may have a cam go if any rust has formed on the lobes, or if the lobes aren't properly lubricated before starting.
You want to pre-oil long enough that cold oil seeps around the lifters (new and tight lifters) and down on the cam lobes. (unless you want to pull the intake and lube them manually)

So many cats, so few recipes...
 
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