try posting up on www.nc4x4.com, someone there should be able to help you.

 

You don't want the help of the people here near there. If you do, don't wear your long johns with the flap door in the back.

 

Thanks for the advice....I posted to nc4x4, we'll see what happens.....

 

Sounds like carb problems...

I can't get your profile to come up, what make, year, engine, ect...

 

Its a 1988 YJ with the 4.2L six and a manual tranny....

 

If it's 'Popping' through the carb, it's almost always fuel.
If it's 'backfiring' through the exhaust, it's almost always timing.

Did you do anything unusual to your vehicle just before this started happening?
Any wiring, new carb rebuild, new vacuum lines, any thing you can think of?

Do you have a second carb?

Is the emissions charcoal canister still connected to the vacuum lines? (diaphrams rupture and charcoal is sucked into the carb vaccum ports)

Have you popped the distributor cap and cleaned the corosion off the rotor nose? (Cross fire will cause these symptoms)

 

Running extremely rich and hard starts can be a stuck float -- the float's not coming up and closing the needle and seat = lots of excess fuel, hard starts, lots of black smoke.

Or maybe a small piece of crap in the bowl - clogging needle and seat, keeping it from closing.

Might be as simply as giving the carb body a few light taps with a hammer.

Maybe the carb needs a cleaning/rebuild.

Good luck
Pete

 

Disconnect the fuel line from the tank the fuel pump and start the vehicle.
With no fuel pressure from the pump the thing should idle normally for a few minutes now that it's not getting drowned in fuel.

This may also be a case of air bleeds being clogged. Same symptoms...
Sounds like you could use a through carb clean out and rebuild.

 

I can't think of anything unusual that I did to it before these issues popped up. It ran great after putting the new carb and ignition in; just before that I made sure all the vacuum lines were routed properly (some weren't hooked up as they should have been)
I still have the Carter carb that came on the Jeep laying around somewhere...
Yes, the charcoal canister is still hooked up to the vacuum lines.
No, I have not popped the distributor cap to clean the rotor nose. Thank you for that tip, I will give that a shot.

 

Thanks for the advice, I'll try to rebuild it this weekend and make sure it is good and clean.

 

Hey 88tanyj, I'll be glad to help you this weekend. I've had my fair share of experience with carter carbs, ignition, etc. Give me a call, 919-749-3539

Mark

 

There are only two kinds of charcoal canisters, those that have ruptured and those that are going to rupture...

Charcoal canister diaphragm gets old and ruptures, and suddenly you have charcoal in the vacuum passages of the carb.
To prevent this problem, get some of those little sediment filters meant for lawn mowers and put them in the vacuum lines between the charcoal canister and the carb.

 

Thanks for that tip....I'll make sure to check that as well

 

So you changed your crappy bbd carb to a ford carb? do you still have the french tranny too? I had the stalling and slushing problem when I first got my 88. Nothing but problems with the ignition and carb so I did the nutter bypass for now. Worked amazingly for me now the Jeep idles solid at about 800 rpm's pulls uphill just letting my foot off the clutch and has power all the way up to about 4 thousand rpm. The kicker is that with a tune up, a hf cat and some ripping out of various air tubes and usless vaccume lines it also passed emmisions. I was shocked but I still plan on going with the howell injection system as soon as I can afford it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

Go with the Nutter and the MC2100 (ford carb). I wish I had read about it before I did my Mopar MPI...would have saved me about $2K and once it's tuned (and it don't take much) it runs just as well. I've seen Jeeps on their side stay running with the 2100 on them, I've watched one get rebuilt/cleaned on a picnic table...in the rain and run like new a few minutes later...New they cost about $75 or about $35 from a junk yard then you get a $12 rebuild kit and you are good to go...If you don't have a visual inspection in your state...do it.

 

[ QUOTE ]
I've watched one get rebuilt/cleaned on a picnic table...in the rain and run like new a few minutes later...

[/ QUOTE ]

I'd like to see that! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

Ask your son about it...he was there too./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

88tanyj
I also live in raleigh if you need to give me a call at 919-796-6562. This is a great site. The Guys on this site have helped me out Tremendously over the last year..