Im pretty sure you should be ok. you should be able to take it off all the time without problem. you prolly wont save that much though, and there is 2 reasons for this. 1. the front driveshaft yoke still spins, power that would be sent to the front wheels is going nowhere. the front axles/ differential are still spinning and creating drag. if you really wanty to get good gas mileage and not spend alot get some locking hubs, and that way even though your driveshaft is spinning its not doing anything, and there os no drag on the vechicle. if you really want good gas mileage, swap in the mile marker part time conversion kit, the better kit they make is nearly bullet proof.

 

ya i thought about just putting on locking hubs, but i never heard anyone say anthing about that or even if it was possible. Would it cause things to wear faster though?

 

i would think it would cause thing to wear faster. the driveshaft can only spin at the speed of the motor, so thats not going any faster, and the axles are turning, there just not engaging the wheels. it would be like taking a part time 4 wheel truck and putting it in 4 wheel drive but not locking the hubs. To get even better milage, get hubs then take the drive shaft out, now nothing but the output shaft on the transfer case is spinning.

 

I had mine out in my 77 for a short while and i can tell you it won't hurt anything at all.

But, in my case it actually used more gas. The best guess I could come up with is, with it out, you have to push the front axle... and with it in, it sort of pulls itself along. That's the short version anyway.

 

dont drive with the front drive shaft off!!!!! it doesnt have any pressure on the transfer case and eventualy "blows the whole thing apart" so take my work ur screwd if that happens.thousands of $$$$$$.

 

well i guess that answers that question

 

dont mind that last post under my name, my brother was being stupid and he posted under my name.

although when i did take it out it kicks out of HI into neutral and makes a whinning noise so i leave it in HI LOC

 

I was going to suggest putting it in high lock. There is no reason to leave it in 4 hi cause the differentials not being used.

 

Uhhh.. it won't even move unless it's in hi lock, it's not an option.

 

when i had both shafts on when i put it in gear there was always an initial "klunk" noise but now with only one there seams to be more, i think it is the rear diff. could this break the ring or pinion.

 

It probably is. now because all of the force is going to the rear diff it hits harder. Do you step on the brake when you put it in gear? The backlash could be off, and the ring gears spins a little then grabs, causing the clunking noise.

 

It could be that just a bit more force is making it a little louder.. but it may be worth checking the U joint as well. It could need a new one. You could try just greasing it first, and see if it chills out some. Unless it's really hitting hard, like "WTF was that" type hard... I would not worry about it.. theres always a certain amount of play.

 

those u joints suck to grease cause i need the special needle tool so i have to bring it in for that, even though its routine maintence, i should probly just buy one.

 

One of the best investments you can make is the purchase of new tools.

 

no doubt, but since im in highschool, i should get my dad to buy them, but he's not interested in trucks so im pretty much on my own for all the repairs

i dont mean to sound whinny, because i love working on my truck, and spending money is definately a part of that.

 

hey i know what you mean. Im 17 and a senior. it tough, especially when you pur in 35-40 hour weeks and school on top of that. I am lucky that my dad has most of the stuff i need. hes also a gear head, so i licked out there.

 

my dad's 1974 k-20 has a np203 and when we un lock the hubs it send all the power to the front tires. why does it do that??? it dosent go move when u put it in gear, it makes like a whistling sound

 

Because the differential in the tcase is sending the power through the path of least resistance, the now free front end. Put it in one or other of the Loc positions and it should move.

 

it dosent go into hi or lo lock it is really had to change the gears