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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know the 3" body lift and 4" susp isn't helping the linkage but it seems like sometimes it just doesn't want to go into 4L! And when it does, it is a PITA to get back out. I have to put it in drive and neutral a few times and then a simple tug on the shift does the trick. Worse case I get up under the jeep with a BF Bar and try to pry the lever on the 231 into the correct position! My shifters bracket is custom since my TH350 adapter sits where the stock stuff bolts up, I may try tightening up the linkage next time I have the skid plate off.

Does anyone else have this problem? Any tricks to getting into 4L. Can the nut holding the lever to the 231 get too tight causing it to bind up?

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,35's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c
 
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This probably does not help much, but I gave my buddy my 231 with SYE, and he was complaining about the amount of backlash, I told him it was like that since I put on the SYE, together with a detroit = lots of backlash. But he was worried about it so he took it apart to check out the tolerances, chain stretch etc, - nothing wrong. Put it back together same backlash as before ....

BUT

Before he took it apart it was REALLY hard to get it in and out of lo range. I used to sometimes have to use 2 hands to get it in and out. I had only driven my own jeep (with a 231), so I thought that was just the way it was, and lived with it, but after he took it apart and put it back together it shifts as smooth as butter.

So I can't tell you what it was that caused it, but I think how it is assembled can make a difference in how it shifts. Could be just a minor shifting of parts during assembly makes a major difference in the amount of bind, or ???


Chad Lloyd 95 YJ 4.0 NP435 EBD20 woodies D44s 4.88 detroits SOA revolvers 35 X 15.5 SXs 8274
 
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well the 3" body lift raises suspicion to me although you probably already checked to see if the shifter is hitting on the body? i had a simple 1" body lift and my tranny shifter was hitting body for reverse especially. 3" body is getting extreme and you must have already carved out some room for the shifter. didn't you have to lengthen the shifters also? soory i don't have an answer!/wwwthreads_images/icons/smile.gif
oh one last thing- my body is back on frame and it is still a little tough to get transcase in 4-low- just the nature of the beast. any altering from stock will probably only make it worse.
steve
 
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There are nylon pads on the end of the shift forks that wear out very fast and can cause it to bind if there is to much slop in the fork. The pads are cheap at the dealer and easy to replace if you pay attention to how things come apart.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This shift fork thing, where is it? Inside the case? I guess I'd have to take the 231 off to look at 'em?

The shifter isn't hitting the body, between the B&M shifter and the 4wd shifter, there's a good size hole in the floor board! I may take the t-case out and give it a look over. Will give me a chance to improve my linkage points also.

Anyone know how those push-button t-cases work? There has got to be some type of solenoid that eventually does the shifting right? Wonder if I can find a 231 out of a newer vehicle that has it.
Thanks for the input,
big ed

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,35's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c
 
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Yes, its inside the T-case, and I would stick to you 231 and leave it manual shift. But if you really want to change out the T-case, go to a dana 300. They are super beef except for the output shaft, but Advance Adapters sells a hardend one that will make a 300 bullit proof.

Oh yeah, once I stopped "popping" the shifter into and out of 4Low I quit wearing out the nylon shift fork sleave thingies. If it doesnt feel like it wants to slide in/out of low range in nuetral, hold light pressure on the shifter and drive forward a little bit and you can feel it slide in.

 
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