I think they will all fit. 4x6 is good because it stays the same height as the stock bumper. I'm going to trim mine down alot though this semester. I've got 4x4 in the center and 4x6 as the outer (hey, it was scrap and it was free). You pretty much have to look at the material and visialize what you want to accomplish and then do it. I find writing and measuring help alot too. lol

I'm replacing my spindle type hitch with some pipe though. I've got some 2" inner diameter and some 2" outer that I'm going to use for this. I've seen this done and It won't bend and it's alot cheaper than buying one like you suggest. Just put the oil can to it every now and then. It may not be as smooth as the bearing type assembly but I think it will be just as strong and I won't have to buy any other parts. My 1" bolt I used as a spindle is slowly bending and It would flex alot when I would have the two fuel cans on there with the spare tire. I've seen the pipe design I plan to do on Mark Harris's rig and It was good and strong with no flex. He carries a Fuel can and a 37" spare.

I'm still a little aprehensive about the fender trimming but I figure I had better do it when I have all the tools to fix any potential screw ups that may come along. I'm hoping to retain some of the stock plastic wheelwell up front but am not sure if it can be done yet.

See whutcha done! Ya got me started already!

I also plan on making a roof rack with a spot for 3 bright lights. 2 in front and one for when ya gotta back up. I'm thinking of using some mild square tubing (small stuff) and some expanded wire probably 1/2". I'll look at what's available and what I can get a deal on.

I also saw a writup on a tranny skid plate that I may attempt.

You happy now??? lol NUFF SAID

 

Your pipe idea for a swivel sounds alot cheaper than Rockstompers (especially using two!). Is that 2" solid you plan to use for the inside and what sort of wall thickness are you considering for the outer piece? As odd as it might sound, I've been looking at Hammer Strength machines at the gym for inspiration lately for support angles, spindle welds, and pivots and have to admit given all the weight these things hold, there are good concepts there for a swing-away!

Assuming you would use a torch to cut the install hole for the 2" OD piece into the bumper? I'm wondering about that part now as even 1.25/1.5 inch axle stubs from an old trailer I have considered salvaging might present a problem...how can you make a pretty hole this big without risking integrity - knowing I dont have the drilling hardward to handle that size?

Thanks for letting me bounce these questions on ya...you got me thinking cheap alternatives for the swivel hinge...any pics of what you have in mind?

 

I welded the 1" bolt right to the top of the 4x6. I plan on doing the same with the pipe. The pipe I have is plenty thick. And I'm not going to make it verry long so I really doubt I'll bend it this time. I'm hoping Santa is gonna get me a digicam for christmas so I can show u guys all this stuff.

 

I know what you mean about the back up light idea. I started with an extra hella 55w back there but that was too much. I looked around at Wal-Mart and some other places and found a "tractor/work light" at each of the places. Used a bracket I located at Home Depot and attached it to my swing-away upside down if you know what I mean. Just ran it under the tailgate through the cab to a switch-to a relay-to the battery. works great(especially when passing ricers at night).

 

I mounted 2 rectangular 55w lights between the tubes of my rear customized Smitty bumper. I can see things a little better when backing up now

Definately one of those must-do mods.

 

What do you mean by "customize" your Smitty bumper, hack off the sides? Isn't 2 55w (fog or driving)lights a bit of overkill? I found that mounting higher up with a light able to pivot did much nicer of lighting up a vast area than a stationary light. Can't talk about overkil really b/c I have 5 100w driving lights on a light bar in a "shotgun spread" view.
Something to really bright light punk bit#$es when they have no courtesy or road manners.

 

Could you wired in some 55w lights with your reverse lights. I already have a blast shining my headlights in those ricers rear view mirrors at night. It would be twice as much fun if I could get the ricer in front of me and then put it in reverse to get the ricer behind me.

 

I took a standard dual tube smittybilt bumper, cut the mounts off, notched between the tubes, inserted a hitch receiver, and built a structural brace out of 2 1/2" 1/4" wall tube which mounts between the Bronco frame rails. The Smittybilt part of the bumper is basically just cosmetic now, as I welded everything to the 2 1/2" tubing. I mounted the lights from behind the bumper. They're 1" tall by 4" wide and fit perfectly between the tubes, and they light up everything nice an bright for backing up. I added an aluminum diamond plate step and some black powder coat, and it's a project off my list

Had to get rid of the tweaked "anchor".

 

After I got done with my grave shift and working out I parked my truck in my excersize induced exhaustion it came to me as I was looking at my back bumper.... : I now plan on choping the ends of my rear bumper so that they come to a point on the outside ends. Kinda like two triangles pointing out. I'll reinforce the bottom with 3/8 steel plate. I'll then modify the mounting points by taking some material off. I may have to chop some off the frame to get the result I'm thinking of. If it all goes together like I plan my bumper will be 2-3" under my tailgate. I'll have to cut the rear quarters about 8" up from the bottom of the body from the rear to the wheelwell. My tire carrier will have to be offset and I will gusset the overhanging section so I won't lose any strength there. I fell that by doing this I will reduce my departure angle alot. (In fact when I was looking at it it appeared that after doing this my rear shackles would be the limiting factor)
I hope that most of this makes sense to you. I have it in my head now and now I really want that cameral so I can show you guys what the hell I'm talking about.

NORM

 

Cutting the body

If you cut 8" up behind the rear wheels, you'll lose the main body crossmember that keeps the bedwalls straight. And you'll be so high over the frame that it really won't help, unless you drive REALLY narrow creek beds. A good way to tell if you need to cut is: do I have body damage there?

 

Re: Cutting the body

It's not a need. It's an obsesion!

I'll check it out and reinforce it accordingly. All I know is when I think about the end result... I smile. I looked again and It will probably be about 4-6" under the rear light. Following the top body line. Take Care. NORM

 

Re: Cutting the body

This is the support Steve's referring to.

I'd be a little hesitant as well to hack that puppy off.

 

Re: Cutting the body

hack it! that thing is nothing but trouble for you northerners... i spent 20 minutes digging mud out of that thing during my shackle flip so i know it'll cause rust problems if you leave it!

 

Re: Cutting the body

i spent 20 minutes digging mud out of that thing
Know what ya mean. BTDT too.

I'm just wondering how much effect it will have on the quarters and the tailgate fitting properly if you do cut it.

 

Re: Cutting the body

I guess I'll see when the time comes.

 

Re: Cutting the body

Seems to me that if you chopped it off, you could make up a piece to fit in there and hold it all together. It would just be a little higher up. I would just make sure nothing twisted before you attach the new support piece, or you would probably have problems with the tailgate