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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello, well i got the timing chain cover off today and attempted to drive the old rear main seal out with a round flat point punch but it didn't budge at all. It looks to me that the only way to make it happen is to loosen all the main bearing caps. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Also what is the low down on setting the timing marks on the 88 4.0. my chiltons book says 15 pins between the dots but i looked and it was only 10 unless there was more then one dot??????? what is good oil pressure hot at idle/driving??????
 

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I don't follow you, you took the timing chain cover off to change the rear main seal????

Can't help on setting the chain, ain't done it. Oil pressure , standerd rule of thumb is 10 psi for every thousand rpm. I don't like to see it under 20 psi at idle though myself and should never go over 80 psi or you got big problems.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
pooh bah, i'm doing the chain cause it is slack and also i'm doing the oil pump while i'm in there. I pecked at that rear main seal up in the block for a good while with no luck!!!! sorry to confuse ya but i posted a message yesterday.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
krabysniper, sorry i called ya pooh bah, told ya i was new haha, oh yeah btw, I never met a sniper wid da crabs. haha
 

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Ya, pooh ba wouldn't be acurate in another 40 posts either anyway
As far as the crack aboout my screen name, you still haven't.
I use this screen name in my online gaming, and most everything else just because. It is a blending of my real last name and the characters I choose to use in first person shooter type games online. And I do not now, never intend, nor ever have had, the crabs.
 

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I had a hard time with that too. What I did was drill a hole in an air hammer punch for a piece of steel wire about .060 " thick. I used the air hammer to drive the steel rod CAREFULLY on the end of the old seal. If you are very careful it will come loose. You must be sure you don't let the steel rod come in contact with the inner part of the seal groove when the old seal comes loose. Good luck.
 

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It is also imperitive you do not allow it to contact the crank surface because if you mar it your screwed. That is why you always here anyone who talks bout changing the rear main seal with the engine installed always say to use a plastic drift or simialar object.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yeah if the top seal is as hard as the bottom it is going to be brittle and break off. I used a round punch with flat end and it kept wanting to go in towards the crank. I gues i'm going loosen up the main bearing caps to drop the crank down a tad and try removing with that lil extra space. what do ya all think????
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
NEWS UPDATE!!!!!!!!
FINALLY GOT THE SEAL OUT.
What I did is use a tork screw driver(size 25) with a SMALL body hammer and it made quick work of it. I also loosened all the main caps but don't know if this helped or not. the key is to find an object that is the same size as the seal and use a small hammer.
 

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In reply to:

I use this screen name in my online gaming, and most everything else just because. It is a blending of my real last name and the characters I choose to use in first person shooter type games online.

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Hey Kraby, thanks for the clarification. I always thought the name came from the way you take potshots at the newbies...and sometimes the oldies.


Stan
 
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