well... the cj-5 should not have a soa.. narrow track axles and soa's don't go safely together.. if the cj-7 is pre-82, then the same goes for it. what did you expect would happend when you pushed a vehicle up and not out... most good soa will use at least 60" axles. might want to look into upgrading to scout axles

~~Elusive~~
tj-7..tellico tested, uwharrie safaried..watch for improvements soon/wwwthreads_images/icons/tongue.gif..see it at http://www.jeepgod.net
oh yeah, and a 2000 tj, 4.0, dana 44, nv3550

 

We need more info Spidy.
What years, axles, shocks, tire sizes, spring packs, etc. Ellusive hit the nail on the head though if your running narrow axles. If your CJ7 has the wide trac axles, you may just need some fine tuning. SOA also take a little time on the trail to get used to they feel much different than your run of the mill suspension lift. A well set up SOA is all about attention to fine tuning and ballancing out all aspects of weight distribiution, flex, steering, etc. Dont count on an SOA being complete after you tighten the last bolt on your 1st set up.

Jeff
89 YJ
If at 1st you dont succeed, your replacement will try and try again

 

hey guys thanx i`m sorry it`s been a long week mine the cj5 is running full width scout 44`s my buddies 7 is running a scout 44 front and a bronco 9" rear.i agree we need to get used to the feel and work some kinks out but the bouncyness is a problem doing big rocks on an upgrade if you need to use some motor both 360`s its easy to go over

 

im just curios, how come u cant run "narrow trac" axles with a SOA? I run on eon my jeepster and its axles are from a 73 cj-5. my dad runs ann soa on his jeepster iwth the stock rear end and a disc/dana 30 in the front, and we both run 33 12.50s, my dads enevr rolled his and mine hasnt left the shop, my dad runs in the PNW were it isnt exactly flat!

1970 Jeepster Commando Halfcab, SOA, 33s,
and the buick 231, and SM420. haven't drove it yet but the granny lows gonna rule! runs like a top to boot!
http://jeepster.alloffroad.com

 

Spidey,
What type of springs are you running and how old or new are they. What type of shocks and shock mount configuration? Did you modify the spring mount and chackle mounts at all? Do you have any body lift? are you running hard tops?
Although the SOA is flexy and taller, it should also have a tendency to very easily compress the uphill spring packs on a side hill so that you arent acting like a slinky falling away from the hill, that is unless you have some shock or spring bind hindering compresion(especialy in the rear). If you could post some pics of the jeeps going through their paces would help a lot. If you are heavy on top with a hard top or spare tires, that is also very noticeable with an SOA. the springs may also just need to be trail ridden for a while to loosen them up so that they compress as readily as they extend.
I improved my side lean a lot when I went to cantilevered rear shocks, using R9012's.
Halfcab, you can run an SOA on narrow trak axles, but its just simple mechanics, that as you go higher you really should go wider for more stability. Again though, good SOA set ups come from a good ballance of all the factors,and have numerouse variables.
Just learning to drive an SOA makes a huge difference, the large amount of potential flex that helps in many extreme conditions, can also bite you in the ass, if forced into unfavorable positions.

Jeff
89 YJ
If at 1st you dont succeed, your replacement will try and try again

 

h8monday,elusive: thanx for your imput,heres some answers to your q`s neither one of us is presently running a hard top,with fuul size axles we both have our spring and shackle mounts outboard,i the 5 am running revolvers,my buddts 7 is running xtreme shackles(jeepxtremes.com) check it out there are some pics there i`ll try to get more posted, the`re not the best we both run 38`s tsl hey h8 it`s that "slinky feeling" thats alittle uncomfortable,i was thinking of cantilevering my shocks how does it work o.k. and how are the r 9012`s??thanx guys any advice is appreciated

 

the 9000's are great.. the 12 version is just the longest extended.. they have the most travel... but they will help out a ton... and H8 has his set up so he can control each shock.. the idea setup.. all from in the cab.. but for overall control.. the 9000 is the best there is..

I may not like what you say, but I'll defend to the death your right to say it.
Semper Jeep

 

The cantilevered shocks work very well. My theory for why they help out as well as they do on a side hill, is this. Cantilevered shocks act like softer shocks due to the cantilever affect(basicly leveraging the force of the weight at the corners). On a side hill, though, the down hill shock essentialy acts like it is less cantilevered(stiffer)since it accepting the weight from a more upright position. The uphill shock has the exact opposite forces affecting it thus acting softer. the result is that the rear end tends to squat down on the hill as it leans away from it. In any case whether my thoery of how it works or not is correct, the result is the same. My rig is extremly stable on side hills, and has prompted at least a few people that Ive wheeled with to try the same approach(since its cheap and easy), and everyone Ive talked to have experienced the same results. I am running my 9000s with in cab adjusters, (adjustable side to side as Infantry stated). Although the side to side adjusters are unique and may have some impact on side hill stability, I rarley ever even mess with them other than to adjust them equaly for whatever terrain Im wheelin. On steep rock climbs, firming up the rear helps to reduce hop, but adjusted down very low allows me to wheel through big rocks with a bit less tossing side to side. Here is a pic of the shock set up, its very simple, just a 2x2 x 1/4" square tube cross member, with shock mounts welded to it, then a couple of shock mounts at the axle tube and your done. It also allows the shocks to have an effective travel far greater than their 13" of up down travel.
However on one other note, I have ran the revolver shackles in the rear on this set up, a few different times, in fact I have them on now (to see if they would work better with the new traction bar installed), but the result is the same as I have always noticed with them, they cause far to much wheel hop on steep climbs for my taste. Although they allow outrageouse flex, there are some rocks that I just cant climb when they are on.

Jeff
89 YJ
If at 1st you dont succeed, your replacement will try and try again

 

Oh yeah, I forgot the pic of the cantilever set up. they are actually mounted the other way now, with the shock body on top(so that I could run equal length air lines to the shocks for automatic equalization side to side. Here ya go.

Jeff
89 YJ
If at 1st you dont succeed, your replacement will try and try again