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Need steering help please

268 Views 3 Replies 1 Participant Last post by  **DONOTDELETE**
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Hello, We need some serious help. I'm not sure if this should be posted on Jeeps or Chevys, but since White Rhino is a Wrangler I'll post it here. She has a full GM drive, 350 engine, 10-bolt axles, 700R4 tranny. We did a spring over quite a while back and at the time had a bent steering bar to attach on the drag link. To eliminate the bump steer, we decided to redo the steering to make the the steeing bar straight. We cut and welded an old pitman arm to the knuckle on the passenger side (pitman arm and steering box are still Jeep so on the drivers side). However, even with major heating on the knuckle the weld did not hold under severe strain, trying to get to our J-10 stuck in deep ruts of mud on our property.

I have found companies that make knuckles for Jeep passenger side for SOA steering, but they don't make them for Chevy. Does anyone have any suggestions? Has anyone seen any for GM axles? Please help!! We want to ride the Rhino again.

Thank you very much!!

White Rhino
95 Wrangler-Chevy
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Sorry, can't help you out with the linkage on the front, have any pictures? Maybe use a nut/bolt combo and weld it?
I did want to ask you how the GM 10 bolt is doing in the rear? I have a 10 bolt that I got for free but am reluctant to sink $$ into 4.11 gears and a locker, wondering how it would hold up. I too have a GM drivetrain (built 283ci and TH350). Would probably have to cut the axles down, did you? Would you still use a 10 bolt if you did it again?

/wwwthreads_images/icons/cool.gif Big Ed
'88 YJ, 4" susp,3" body,33's,283 Chevy V8,TH350,4.11's,D30,D35c
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If I remember correctly a dana 44 knuckle will fit on a 10 bolt. I would get a used knuckle and try it
but if it works then you could use the knuckle over steering all the companies are building. Good luck.
Nickmil.

G
So far, the rear GM10 bolt is doing great. We have 5.13 gears in front and rear and a Lock-Rite in the rear. We attempted to Lincoln lock the front, but after hearing a loud pop a few days ago, we think we either broke the welds or the spider gears. May go to a Lock-Rite in the front, too. No, we didn't have to cut the axles down. Yes, the axles stick out a bit, but if I remember correctly, were only a few inches wider than the stock. We did have to move the spring perches, not hard, cut off, move, and weld up. I'm the wife and think we'd use the 10 bolt again, but I can ask Jon later for his opinion. We gutted an 83 Blazer to build our YJ, so as far as price it was a great way to go.

White Rhino
95 Wrangler-Chevy
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
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