Robert,
No one is laughing....how do you think we learned....we asked....at least you are not asking where the 'Any Key' is on the keyboard.
1. Packing bearings...for a few bucks at the local auto supply you can buy a bearing packer..or you can go to your favorite mechanic and give him a couple of bucks to pack them for you. Wiping grease on the bearings does not hack it. It has to be forced through the carrier.
2.Inner seal...just tap it in place...I usually use a block of wood. Make sure you get it completely seated, otherwise you will have trouble getting the snap ring back on the axle.
3. Cup? is this something unique to the Warn Hub? If your talking about the bearing race then there is a special tool your 'supposed' to use. I just tap mine in with a punch being 'very careful' to not nick the bearing surface. Let me stress the 'careful' part.
4. Other points...the inner nut is supposed to be torqued to 50 lbs and then backed off a fraction. Well, unless you have a socket that big, thats hard to do. Guys, correct me if I'm wrong here...but I just tighten the nut until I start to feel just a little drag on the rotor (do this before you install the brake caliper). Then on the outer nut, tighten it down as hard as you can with your big channel locks (we all have a pair, right?). You will know if your close becase the lock washer will line up where it was when you took it apart...the bent over lip part that is. I recomend bending over a different section of the lock washer.
While your at it, you might want to replace all of you break fluid. I just did mine and the system was full of rust. Break fluid absorbs water real easy and will cause everything to rust. You can tell real easy...have the wife press on the break while you open up the bleed screew. If the fluid coming out is brown...you have rust.
John......southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Locker, Solid Axle's, Durabak