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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am goin home to install my Warn hub conversion kit, I have new bearings and new brake rotors. This will be my first wheel bearing job. I know don't laugh. :) What is the best thing too use to get the cup in place? What about the inner seal? Best method for packing bearings? etc. Just trying to keep from making to many mistakes. Thanks for any input.

http://www.geocities.com/austnjpr/
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Robert,
No one is laughing....how do you think we learned....we asked....at least you are not asking where the 'Any Key' is on the keyboard.

1. Packing bearings...for a few bucks at the local auto supply you can buy a bearing packer..or you can go to your favorite mechanic and give him a couple of bucks to pack them for you. Wiping grease on the bearings does not hack it. It has to be forced through the carrier.
2.Inner seal...just tap it in place...I usually use a block of wood. Make sure you get it completely seated, otherwise you will have trouble getting the snap ring back on the axle.
3. Cup? is this something unique to the Warn Hub? If your talking about the bearing race then there is a special tool your 'supposed' to use. I just tap mine in with a punch being 'very careful' to not nick the bearing surface. Let me stress the 'careful' part.
4. Other points...the inner nut is supposed to be torqued to 50 lbs and then backed off a fraction. Well, unless you have a socket that big, thats hard to do. Guys, correct me if I'm wrong here...but I just tighten the nut until I start to feel just a little drag on the rotor (do this before you install the brake caliper). Then on the outer nut, tighten it down as hard as you can with your big channel locks (we all have a pair, right?). You will know if your close becase the lock washer will line up where it was when you took it apart...the bent over lip part that is. I recomend bending over a different section of the lock washer.

While your at it, you might want to replace all of you break fluid. I just did mine and the system was full of rust. Break fluid absorbs water real easy and will cause everything to rust. You can tell real easy...have the wife press on the break while you open up the bleed screew. If the fluid coming out is brown...you have rust.

John......southern CA
84CJ7, 3"lift, 32"BFG, 4.10's, ARB Locker, Solid Axle's, Durabak
 

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as often as i remove my hubs, it's worth the $17 or so for the hub socket. it fits a 1/2" drive rachet so even if you don't use a torque wrench, you can get close. if you have larger than a 30" tire, a locker, and/or drive through water/mud, you will be repacking bearings and replacing u-joints often enough to justify the socket.

79/CJ-7/AMC360/TH400/Q-TRAC/d30/d44/33's/RS9000s/Herculiner/Pro-jection 2D
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the hub nut was 10 bucks through quadratec and 4wd. I just took my front end apart last weekend and the socket works the nuts. That is one of the best tools i have for my jeep. IT takes two minutes to take the front end a part with the socket. oh yeah never sieze compound on the thread of the bolts helps alot for easier removal of the front at a later time. If you buy the tool buy some nuts they are cheap money and they will replace the ones that someone used a chiesel on to tighten them up with out the socket. Also they sell a socket a napa aa bought it and than returned it had prongs and it was not a socket get the socket through 4wd hardware.


 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I believe the socket is 2 1/8".
When tightening the nut it is very important to spin the rotor as you tighten.

Did it go together nice and easy? You did something wrong.Will have to do it again./wwwthreads_images/icons/crazy.gif
DaveC
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
first: spend a couple extra bucks and have the rotors and studs pressed into the wheel hub.

if the races are not installed, either have the same shop press them in, or use a brass drift to punch them in.

the proper way to install the seal is with a seal driver. you can press them in, or drive them in with a hammer and a block of wood. just make sure the seal is square and the spring is still in its original place.

use a high quality grease, pack the bearings well, but dont fill the whole wheel hub full. a bearing packer (4 clams at parts-r-us works fine) is a good thing to have.

make sure you follow the torque settings for the wheel bearings, but after you have finished the install, drive for a few miles and then check to see if the bearings are getting hot. if they are, you may need to decrease the preload on the bearings slightly until the new parts break in a little. checking your bearing preload, especially with larger tires will save you from big bills later on.

take your time, enjoy the fact that you are doing the work to your ride and things will work out fine.

dan
Good things come to those who do research!!
 

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You know there is a bearing inside the spindle also don't you ? ....just in case you get the wheel bearings out and it looks bad in there ...even if you don't do them at the same time it never hurts to know of a potential problem in advance,To put it on the to do list.
The manual says NOT to turn the selecter for the hubs while they are off the axel...I don't know why and did not care to find out why.
I could not get the bearing packer to work and wound up with grease everywhere.
have plenty of solvent,good hand soap ,and rags handy at all times.I used the really cheap brand of paper towels.
I think I have become a "torque-aholic"

Learn to let go of what does not serve you ,but forces you to serve it
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
can you use the old races with new bearings? I just replaced both but i go through alot of water and mud. With this abuse should I expect for them to last? I got one year warrenty ones. They cost me 20 bucks a side and the bearings were made in china, the old ones where timikin.


 

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you CAN use old races with NEW bearings, but it isnt recommended
you will severly shorten the life of the bearings...

I wouldnt do it, I did once in a pinch , and then went back a few months later and redid the whole shebang to get the deal right again

OzarkJeep
77 CJ5, in a bunch of sanded and primered pieces
 
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