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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
‘95 4Runner. Very low miles, plan to keep. Some rust inside wheel arch moulding, inside bumpers, some paint bubbling on rear door near glass weatherstrip, rust underneath, etc.
Thinking of taking it to Beauty-Gard Shop for rust proofing. Do those “thixotropic jel rust inhibitors” really work? Should I brush as much rust as I can reach before going there?
Any rust proofing advice welcome.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
POR 15 is the shiznit www.por15.com

if your paint is bubling you gota take out the cancer and re paint at least that area but for underneath and non visible stuff and floors por is great
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have used Corroseal with good results. It is a self etching rust converting primer, and is a LOT cheaper than POR-15. Cost was about $40.00 for a gallon, shipped.

It is mostly for industrial use (15,000 gallon tanks, oil rigs, tankers, etc) so I figured it would hold up on my Jeep. So far no problems.

More info and direct ordering here:

http://www.corroseal.com/

laters
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey Desertrat thats more or less what I waas going to tell him, only differance was I was going to tell him Nevada.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was actually pretty impressed with the visual results. Turn the rust to a dark black color and is very hard, even the stuff that was a little flakey that I missed with the wire brush feels like new metal.

I topcoated it with Hammerite with a roller and brush, so I am pretty confident that the metal is protected for a good while. It has only been on 1 month now, so I don't know long term, but like I said, it looks and feels awesome
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
bedlining the whole thing, huh? i guess you don't care what it'll look like after a couple of passes thru the mud, right? guy around here did his whole scout that way. looked nice when he first did it but now it's just stained. even a powerwash can't help. i think you can adjust how porous it'll apply. try and get it as smooth as you can.

russki, you got fender flares on it? the retaining holes on the body rust pretty good but you can't see that. eventually they'll rust enough to where there's movement of the flares. just a thought.
 

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72dreamer, yeah, function first, looks second. The main idea is stop the rust it has now, and stop it from ever coming back again. Trail scratches? Who cares. Door dings? Bah. Road salt? Phoey. It'd take a full on accident or collision with something unmoving offroad to mess up the body.


My one concession to form is actually getting the yellow bedliner.
 
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